Ohhhh I'll Fly Away...

Rod, don't know if I will be able to get to it today, but as soon as I get a chance to mess with it I'll let you know.
 
@Spappy,
What is the status lights on controller and phantom?

Look at this thread.
P3S, RC stuck on FW 1.7.90, CANNOT UPDATE, STUCK ON 1.7.90

And look at the link a provided on post #15.
P3S, RC stuck on FW 1.7.90, CANNOT UPDATE, STUCK ON 1.7.90

Yes no link, no way to activate flight data.

Rod
LED on RC is solid red. LED/button on AC is solid green. I've tried uninstalling/reinstalling the DJIGO app on my phone to no avail. Not sure what else to do at this point. I've tried every known method to get the AC & RC to link up with no luck. Oh, and the DJIGO app at the camera screen says, "RC connected, connect AC".
 
I just discovered that the RC and AC are talking after all - I can initiate launch via the RC without the app, and all the controls seem to be working - it's sitting here right now on my kitchen table (without props, of course) operating "normally". The app is what's telling me there is an issue between the two...
 
Hum,

#1 It has nothing to do with DJI-Go (Stupid name).
#2 You don't need your mobile device, etc. to re-link the phantom, once linked you don't need a mobile device to fly the Phantom, just the remote.

Here is the hum.... Part.

When you turn on the phantom without the remote the Phantom status light should be red.
When you turn on the remote with out the Phantom the remote status light should be red.

So #1 if it was working correctly both on, both would be green, turn one off the other it will go red.

So #2 If the Phantom is red before you turn on the remote, and then it turns green when you power on the remote, the Phantom sees the remote and I bet you could start motors and fly it.

So #3 If the Phantom turns green without the remote powered on, I have no freaking clue.

So #4 If #2 is correct, you have no signal coming from the Gimbal, the remote is not seeing the Phantom.
and if you had a new or different remote you would not be able to start the motors, because you are not linked and will not be-able to link because the remote can't what assume is receive the Mac_address from the Phantom, the Phantom sees the Mac_address from the Remote, but without the two way communications, the linking process times out, and the Phantom stays with the remote it was last linked with.

Summary. ;)
I say your are still linked to the Phantom, the remote can't verify it, any commands that are sent from the remote that is related to data including from you mobile device can not be completed, with out the verification from the Phantom.

Rod
 
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You posted while I was writing that last one, I didn't get a notification. ;)

Rod
 
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Hum,

#1 It has nothing to do with DJI-Go (Stupid name).
#2 You don't need your mobile device, etc. to re-link the phantom, once linked you don't need a mobile device to fly the Phantom, just the remote.

Here is the hum.... Part.

When you turn on the phantom without the remote the Phantom status light should be red.
When you turn on the remote with out the Phantom the remote status light should be red.

So #1 if it was working correctly both on, both would be green, turn one off the other it will go red.

So #2 If the Phantom is red before you turn on the remote, and then it turns green when you power on the remote, the Phantom sees the remote and I bet you could start motors and fly it.

So #3 If the Phantom turns green without the remote powered on, I have no freaking clue.

So #4 If #2 is correct, you have no signal coming from the Gimbal, the remote is not seeing the Phantom.
and if you had a new or different remote you would not be able to start the motors, because you are not linked and will not be-able to link because the remote can't what assume is receive the Mac_address from the Phantom, the Phantom sees the Mac_address from the Remote, but without the two way communications, the linking process times out, and the Phantom stays with the remote it was last linked with.

Summary. ;)
I say your are still linked to the Phantom, the remote can't verify it, any commands that are sent from the remote that is related to data including from you mobile device can not be completed, with out the verification from the Phantom.

Rod
Well, here's what I know: when the drone is turned on without the controller, the LED is red. With the drone on, and the status LED red, if I turn on the controller, the LED on the drone turns green. HOWEVER, the status LED on the controller stays red REGARDLESS of whether or not the drone is on or off - BUT, I can still start the motors on the drone with the controller, even though the LED is red on the controller. HMMMMM......
 
Sorry, for late reply, our store closes had 5:30 pm, my last post was 5:40 pm and I headed home, I got busy when I got home, and well it is already another day. ;)

So yes my theory is correct. Now for details I have none.
There are members that must know.

I say the WifI signal communication starts at the Gimbal. Somewhere the signal has to get combined with data from the main board, Satellite count / gps location, battery levels, signal strength, etc. then it needs to be amplified, I would assume its not even getting from the gimbal.

Does the gimbal dance on startup?
Can you move the gimbal with the remote?
Any status lights on the gimbal?

Rod
 
Yes the gimbal dances on startup. I can control it with the remote. The tiny LED on front was flashing red (because I pulled the memory card out, which is normal). I can put it back in and see what it does, but I'm gonna guess nothing will change.
 
@RodPad, I've also been ok the DJI forums and they seem to be more focused on the controller, things like calibration and syncing. I just don't know...
 
It would seem that if VLOS was maintained, there would be no lost drone. Often, when flying near very think and tall trees, both VLOS and radio signal are lost. When flying in NH, where the tall tree and thick forests situation exists, it is critical to back off away from the forest edge enough to maintain VLOS. The other option is to hope and pray ... and, of course, depend on RTH.
 
It would seem that if VLOS was maintained, there would be no lost drone. Often, when flying near very think and tall trees, both VLOS and radio signal are lost. When flying in NH, where the tall tree and thick forests situation exists, it is critical to back off away from the forest edge enough to maintain VLOS. The other option is to hope and pray ... and, of course, depend on RTH.
Nice to hear “Mr. VLOS” chime in. ;-)
 
It would seem that if VLOS was maintained, there would be no lost drone. Often, when flying near very think and tall trees, both VLOS and radio signal are lost. When flying in NH, where the tall tree and thick forests situation exists, it is critical to back off away from the forest edge enough to maintain VLOS. The other option is to hope and pray ... and, of course, depend on RTH.
I'm a little confused by your statement. Yes, there were thin, tall trees, but, the area I was operating the drone was in a turnoff from the main highway. The drone was in VLOS at the time of signal loss, simply due to the fact it was hovering about 850' and was about 500' in front of me. I only lost VLOS after about a minute or so passed after I got the initial warning, and I started fiddling with the controller in an attempt to get it to reconnect. All that said, I'm still unable to explain why it never reconnected the whole time I was in the area (well within range), and furthermore why the red light won't turn green on the controller.
 
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I might be stating the obvious here but when I put on my Amateur Radio Hat VLOS has very little to do with RF Signal Path. Since you were flying well above the typical altitude you may have seen the aircraft visually but the angle of your controller antennas in relationship to the aircraft would have attenuation between 400' and 800' vertical. The antenna's are typically oriented for horizontal flight unless you had tried angling your controller up when trying to regain control. I've never looked at the controller radiation pattern but suffice it to say most antennas have lobes or sweet spots for maximum radiation. An example you may have 80% radiated power in front of you with only 20% behind you and near zero off to the side. So facing the aircraft and changing the angle of either the antennas or the controller could make significant difference depending on both vertical and horizontal distances relative to each other.
 
I might be stating the obvious here but when I put on my Amateur Radio Hat VLOS has very little to do with RF Signal Path. Since you were flying well above the typical altitude you may have seen the aircraft visually but the angle of your controller antennas in relationship to the aircraft would have attenuation between 400' and 800' vertical. The antenna's are typically oriented for horizontal flight unless you had tried angling your controller up when trying to regain control. I've never looked at the controller radiation pattern but suffice it to say most antennas have lobes or sweet spots for maximum radiation. An example you may have 80% radiated power in front of you with only 20% behind you and near zero off to the side. So facing the aircraft and changing the angle of either the antennas or the controller could make significant difference depending on both vertical and horizontal distances relative to each other.
The PS3 has a single antenna and I keep it perpendicular to the craft during flight to maintain optimum signal. As I stated previously, even if that was the reason for signal loss, how would you explain the subsequent inability of the RC and AC to link up, even when sitting next to each other?
 
I'm a little confused by your statement. Yes, there were thin, tall trees, but, the area I was operating the drone was in a turnoff from the main highway. The drone was in VLOS at the time of signal loss, simply due to the fact it was hovering about 850' and was about 500' in front of me. I only lost VLOS after about a minute or so passed after I got the initial warning, and I started fiddling with the controller in an attempt to get it to reconnect. All that said, I'm still unable to explain why it never reconnected the whole time I was in the area (well within range), and furthermore why the red light won't turn green on the controller.
Don’t be confused. Mr. VLOS Russ is just trying to stretch his pet peeve into the cause for battery failure now. While his cause may be noble, his somewhat passive aggressive touches on the subject may be a bit of a broken record as he admits. But attributing an apparent battery failure to loss of VLOS takes it to a new level. ;-))
 
I'm a little confused by your statement. Yes, there were thin, tall trees, but, the area I was operating the drone was in a turnoff from the main highway. The drone was in VLOS at the time of signal loss, simply due to the fact it was hovering about 850' and was about 500' in front of me. I only lost VLOS after about a minute or so passed after I got the initial warning, and I started fiddling with the controller in an attempt to get it to reconnect. All that said, I'm still unable to explain why it never reconnected the whole time I was in the area (well within range), and furthermore why the red light won't turn green on the controller.
Seems like with no obstacles you should have been OK regardless of altitude. I don't see how VLOS had anything to do with loss of signal and then a hardware failure of some kind.
 

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