Motor replacement fo P3

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Does anyone know how to take the top of the new P3 for a motor replacement? The top half separates very easily on the P1 and P2 to with the removal of 12 screws-- 4 at each arm.

On the P3, removed the 12 screws in the same locations and the top half of the copter still is very secure where the arms meet the body, as if there were other attachments ???? holding it together. There is no evidence of any other external screws that could be holding it together. I even removed the camera and gimbal to make sure that there were none hidden on the bottom.

It is as if DJI does not want the average quad copter guy fooling around on the inside. I am wondering it maybe there is a hidden attachment that requires special tooling to separate the top from the body.
 
You need to carefully pop the clips holding the case together. I was probably one of the first naughty person who popped the hood off... you can see the clips if you look at this pictures carefully. You need to apply pressure to release with a thin flat blade. Don't pivot on the case or you will crease the lip leaving horrible marks on the edge - it will look prised open.

What's wrong with your motor? Have you got the E310 replacements?
DSC02169.jpg
DSC02179.jpg
 
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You need to carefully pop the clips holding the case together. I was probably one of the first naughty person who popped the hood off... you can see the clips if you look at this pictures carefully. You need to apply pressure to release with a thin flat blade. Don't pivot on the case or you will crease the lip leaving horrible marks on the edge - it will look prised open.

What's wrong with your motor? Have you got the E310 replacements?View attachment 18934 View attachment 18936

Made a stupid mistake installing prop guards--- exactly what they tell you not to do... ran the wrong bolts into the motor base without the prop guard bracket-- talking to my wife while working on the quad and not paying attention to what I was doing :(

Thought I would try a P2 960 KV replacement until I can get the new ones... and that may be a awhile.

Thanks for the help!

Bob
 
You need to carefully pop the clips holding the case together. I was probably one of the first naughty person who popped the hood off... you can see the clips if you look at this pictures carefully. You need to apply pressure to release with a thin flat blade. Don't pivot on the case or you will crease the lip leaving horrible marks on the edge - it will look prised open.

What's wrong with your motor? Have you got the E310 replacements?View attachment 18934 View attachment 18936
Got the P3 apart-- installed a new 2312 960 KV motor-- works great on the bench!
Going out for a test flight tomorrow-- Will report the results. From physical appearances and kv rating the 2312 looks to be identical to the motors that came on the P3. The test flight will prove or disprove that speculation. The 2312 motors are the Vision 2+ upgrade motors from DJI.

Thanks for the help! !! I was pretty well at a dead end since I could get no help from DJI regarding a motor replacement.
 
@bobmyers, how did the 2312s work with the Phantom 3? I want to replace mine as well.
I put one 2312 on one arm where I had screwed up the motor and it performs great. No difference from the original P3 motors. Not one hiccup.:)
 
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Well done! LOL sweat much?

having a closer look it is pretty nicely labelled.
 
When you put your prop guards on and try and fire up the p3 did you get ESC error? I made the same mistake with the long screws on one motor and have been getting ESC error ever since. I have ordered new motors and have the top off but see no visible damage so I'm wondering if I have other issues?
 
When you put your prop guards on and try and fire up the p3 did you get ESC error? I made the same mistake with the long screws on one motor and have been getting ESC error ever since. I have ordered new motors and have the top off but see no visible damage so I'm wondering if I have other issues?
no esc error-- do not power the aircraft until the motors are replaced-- you might burn an esc--- hopefully not.
 
You would not want to cut the wires but rather unsolder them from the main PCB.

You can test these brushless motors with an Ohm meter after unsoldering.

Measuring the coil resistance between each wire pair combination should yield very low and nearly equal readings for all three coils.

Typically the damage created by the 'screw' incident results in open coils with infinite resistance being the indicator.
 
Thank very much.
 

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