HOW TO: Removing/Replacing your WiFi Module

burlbark said:
The metal also shields the wifi unit from EMI and shields the flight controller and mother board from unwanted interference being generated.

Jeremy James
I can't remember where (or even know if it's true) but I read about someone that had the same idea as nedro018 and removed the metal box (or at least the top of it) around the Wi-Fi Module trying to accomplish the same thing (heat dissipation) and the result was a 50% decrease in the number of Satellites found, preventing the individual from flying as he could rarely achieve a GPS Lock condition. . .

. . . in the end he stated that he had to reassemble everything. Once he did, he was able to get 7 to 10 Satellites again. Go figure :|
 
burlbark and ATC Drone Flyer,

good points boths of you. im just trying to think of a fix before mine goes. DJI is never going for a recall LOL.

for a possible easy solution, im thinking about one of the previously mentioned heat sinks (with the verticle fins) coupled with some more drilling into the plastic body -only around this wifi area of the plastic frame- to increase airflow...around the added heat sink.

further...we should not do any more live video feeds in the house to "check out the system". because theres no airflow going on here so a mis-designed electrical part will get hot all the quicker.

finally, when we are outside for a real launch, launch quickly: airflow around the (now) modified part may be the key.

i really cant say, but maybe DJI in fact has a mis-designed part, but also, and maybe and to make their (DJI's) problem worse, some pilots trained too long in their living rooms before "taking the plunge" to live fly and pre-fried their amps before their lifespans? just conjecture.

if its true, i sure as hell took 20 flights off of my phantom on my balcony after i bought it :)

seriously...just looking for a fix. if its overheating and DHI wont fix it, we can fix it.
 
For those having heat-related issues, you should try the solution of computer guys: open up the module, note where the white heat-transfer compound is, then clean it all off, and spread high-quality heat-transfer compound (Arctic Silver or similar) where the white stuff was. Close it back up again and reassemble. Report back if it did any good.

Btw, to unstick the wifi module from the main board, I lift up (apply continuous upward pressure) the bracket where the screw was, then slide a sharp knife between the main board and the sticky tape. You aren't aiming to cut the tape so much as just loosen the sticky bits that are wanting to remain stuck to the main board.
 
nexus said:
Fresh or Saltwater landing both would cause instantaneous failure of all PCB board circuits if it has live DC. It will create bridges between semi-conductors that will short out all chips. Ironically.. if it didn't have DC current, electronics can be recovered without much damage. Pfft

Actually, I disagree. The water will certainly cause malfunction while things are wet, but electronics very often survive when dried out quickly. This is probably because the voltages are low and mostly just trying to drive logic signals.

Saltwater (or other liquids such as soda) can eat through tiny electrical contacts if not rinsed out. Even fresh water can be bad if it penetrates into an enclosure where it won't dry out again soon.

If my Phantom were to get dunked, I'd want to open up all the modules to expose all the circuitry in order to let everything dry out thoroughly and quickly.
 
Hi i need help please I bought this module and
In any photo explain where connect the 6 pin cables and
The 2 pin biside. I see that they go to under module
But not where i can plug.

Someone can help? Or explain what is each pin.. Bat- bat + video etc
 
Hi thanks I find the 6 pin (is plugged on zenmuse filter)

but the side of 6 pin plug (is a 2 pin) it goes to outside in photos. Someone knows where plug it?
 
edaolio said:
Hi thanks I find the 6 pin (is plugged on zenmuse filter)

but the side of 6 pin plug (is a 2 pin) it goes to outside in photos. Someone knows where plug it?
The 2 pin wire from the side of the wifi module combines with the 2 pin wire from the mainboard CAM connector to become the 4-pin plug to the gimbal base.

There's a picture around here that makes all this clear. Here: http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=29161#p267557
 
eyecon82 said:
hey guys, i created a video on how to do it here http://youtu.be/hLTmzQV-lYo
Thank you for the effort. The video does address a felt need. It would have been much better had you paid attention to lighting and to voice/sound. Must admit it was a bit frustrating to watch / listen , at times. I hope you dont mind the feedback, since with your skills and DIY approach, you may have more "extreme repair" videos up your sleeve.
Thank you.
 
So I just got a black screen while playing around with vision plus today. Found that if I put my hand on the WiFi module while phantom is on and I cool it down just a little bit via touch video magicaly reappears.

Took module off and the video decoder board has foam tape covering what appears to be a very hot chip. Absoutly no heat paste, and it seems the foam would insulate and help to hold heat. If you look at the metal case there's a dimple where the chip should make contact, but the foam defeats that.

Oh and you can see how little paste DJI used on the WiFi board, going to try and artic silver the **** out of this thing and see what happens. Oh and this is with a total of 9 flights, now I can't even get off the ground before it overheats.
 

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*** NO-VIDEO FEED PROBLEM POSSIBLE SOLUTION HERE ***

I have an update to the no video issue. We ran into it lately and (it may be a general problem or not) my colleague seems to have luckily solved it.

Our P2V+ was exhibiting the no video feed issue, everything seemed to work fine, the camera was recording video fine to the microSD card, the gimbal was working fine, we could connect to the bird but there was no live video feed.

It turned out that one of the 2 ribbon cables that go into the camera (1 being the gimbal control, the other being the camera control) was not seated properly. There was an approximately 2% slope in the connector seating, just enough for (may be the last) one pin to not connect. And that seems to be the video feed.
We pushed the connector back in and voilà, video feed is back.

Before berserking your bird and sending the WiFi module back, make sure those cables are not broken and seated properly. Costs nothing to check before anything else.

It could be as simple as that.

Cheers,

Gabriel
 
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Morning,,I had the issue of the wifi heating up also. Noticed it got awful warm/hot
wifi heatsink.jpg
Heatsink wifi.jpg
on the top of the bird just sitting there updating the firmware as soon as I got it.
Took a look, and here is my remedy. Still using the same wifi unit as (orginal).
Pic one was what I was hoping to do,,however due to space I was only able to do pic 2.
The cover of the wifi module was cut out so the heatsink would fit through it. Left 2 small strips of the cover to hold the heatsink. If you look closely you can see it between the first & second fin & the third & forth fin. The heatsink sit directly on the chip. This is a big flaw where as the chip "will" at some point burn itself out,,poor design.
 
Hi All,
I have the same issue with video feed. After doing all of the suggested fixes and checks, I finally bought a new Wi-Fi unit from HeliPal. It arrived and I installed it. I fired up the unit and am not even getting a wifi connection from the unit. I put the old unit back in and it works (sans video stream). I went through the binding procedure although I am not sure I needed to. My question is this. Is there any procedure, setting or action required when a new Wi-Fi module is installed? Or did I just get a bad unit?
DSipp
 
You do need to bind to the new wifi unit using the QR code.
Don't forget to confirm the change by clicking the tick top right.

When you put the old one back in, if your bind to new module one was a success you'd have had to bind using the old QR code again?
I do not have the original QR code as I purchased the Phantom used. I do have a new QR code with the new Wi-Fi module. I am not clear by what you mean by "tick the top right". For clarity, when I say Bind, I am pressing the button on the bottom of the Phantom and then turning on the receiver. Is there another process using the QR code?
Thanks for the assistance.
DSipp
 
DSipp,
new wifi module came with a sticker on top of it with numbers and letters on it starting with 60:60:1F:xx:xx:xx

you just need the xx:xx:xx on yours.
so reset the RE (range extender) by pressing Reset button next to On/Off button for 10 seconds while everything is on and then go to your
settings on your phone and connect to Phantom Wifi.
fire up DJI App (remember Phantom has to be on at this point) and go to settings, scroll down and click Binding, now on the bottom
enter the remaining of your xx:xx:xx number from your brand new wifi unit and click blue check mark in top righ corner, click blue check mark
again.
at this point your wifi will disconnect. wait 1 minute and go back to your wifi settings on your phone to make sure you are connected to the
Phantom wifi again and if not connect to it.
Go to your DJI app and click Camera --- VIOLA!
 
I have a P2V+, I just ordered a new WiFi module DJIPVP-03, is this the new version of the module that doesn't have the heating till it dies issue? I don't want to have to keep buying these.
 

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