Homemade Tablet Holder Question

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I've had my P3S for a few months and recently moved from using my iPhone 6 Plus to a Google Nexus. The smartphone holder that comes with the P3S is...well...kind of lame. After just a few uses, the plastic cracked right where the holder clamps to the controller's handle, and to make matters worse, the two little nuts came loose and would spin in the plastic when turning the screws. I was able to fix both of these issues using one of those UV glue pens you see on tv (and in hardware stores now). Finding that little gem was the best part of this whole situation. If you haven't used one before, then definitely get one. I've since used it to fix cracked prop guards and a couple other things.

Anyway, let me get to my question. After switching to the Google Nexus, I needed a way to hold the tablet while flying. I looked at the options sold online, but they either seemed too expensive or too cheaply made. It was like no middle ground existed. Being a tinkerer, I decided to make a trip to the hardware store and see what I could make myself. Using a few inexpensive mending plates, u-bolts, and industrial velcro, this is what emerged. Obviously I know there are stickers saying not to block the areas on either side of the main antenna, but these mending plates are narrow and don't cover them. My question is whether the metal and/or placement is going to affect the controller's radio or wifi signals. I have noticed an occasional drop/slowing in video transmission since switching from my iPhone 6 Plus, but I wasn't sure if that's due to my new holder or a difference in the wireless antennas in the two devices.

Any thoughts or insights would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
Leo


 
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Any thoughts or insights would be much appreciated.
Good question Leo as to the metal - and since you have noticed a change already - perhaps it is an issue. Plastic no doubt would have been a better choice of material - I will say your holder looks very good - simple and adjustable for tilting the pad and using Velcro to attach makes it simple to remove. Nice job.

Maybe wrapping the metal strips/arms with electrical tape would help as to isolating the effect (if any) - or using some "heat shrink" electrical tubing would look neater. DJI has metal on the base of the RC to begin with but your antennae is right smack in the middle of the two metal arms, so who knows - try the shrink wrap is what I would suggest.

EDIT: There is also some non-conductive insulating paints around that might also work if the metal is proven to be an issue.
 
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Thanks eaglegoaltender; I hadn't considered insulating the metal arms! I'll definitely try that later today.

The video transmission hasn't been terrible, but it seems like I get the weak controller signal warning more often.
 
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The video transmission hasn't been terrible, but it seems like I get the weak controller signal warning more often.
That for me would be enough to have a light come on indicating some kind of interference but at the same time when I think more about it - perhaps just the arms alone metal or not and surrounding the antennae are enough to partially block signals - then again if you have the antennae tilted out slightly one wouldn't think they would not be an issue - and some crude range boosters others have made are metallic and enhance the antennae signal ---- LOL - going in circles here now with over thinking. Still a great job you did constructing it.

Last resort I suppose is to use booster of some kind if signal weakness warnings continue. Let me know how you make out and good luck.
 
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Hi, covering the metal with whatever will not have any positive effect.
Signal loss is a result from "grounding-effect" from the metal you added, covered by plastic or not.
Solution could be to move antenna more forward (away from the metal) to reduce effect.
 
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Thanks Lucaxel! I'm going to do some controlled tests with and without the holder in place.
 
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You could do this, like I did.
IMAG0068.jpg
 
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Most likely the original steel supportbracket is connected to the -(neg.) pole of the battery and the steel chassis (if there is any) inside the housing, thus creating a ground-surface. By adding the steel bracket, the ground-surface is altered in size. Any antenna-constriction is designed based on a calculation
(antenna in relation to ground, and the position of the ground in relation to the required radiation/reception) this is disturbed by the added steel. The solution suggested by wmcvey could very well work, if the added steel was not there. Wmcvey' s item will "beam-in" radiowaves to the antenna. It will however make the remote more sensative to direction. If any change is needed i would prefer a new antenna setup instead of fooling around with the existing one, disturbing the calculation without any knowledge of the outcome.

A short of groundsurface is no good, but increasing groundsurface is no guarantee for improvement, let alone the effect of the groundsurface lining up with the antenna. For the setup suggested bywmcvey, in fact the backside of the antenna (pointing to the brass or copper plate) should be inactive!

Sent from my GT-N8010 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
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I like your bracket l really do but unfortunately its blocking both your inner video wifi antennas
 
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I like your bracket l really do but unfortunately its blocking both your inner video wifi antennas
Had the very same thought when I saw it too.
 
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The 2.4s are in this location
45.PNG
 
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I like your bracket l really do but unfortunately its blocking both your inner video wifi antennas
Good info from "Ohiowoodsman" on the possibility of signal blocking/interference Also note that both of these radio frequencies are considered Line of Sight (LOS) in that they do not function when any barriers are in-between you and your Phantom. Of note there is a warning sticker at these locations also stating "Antennae inside - do not Cover" LOL

Pretty obvious warning - although I must admit I don't have this warning notice on my controller - but you do LOL (I know not funny after all your work) . Good call "Ohio"


 

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