Help me! At Apple store running through their inventory. This is unreal.

Sorry. I shall clarify then ;)

I own an Inspire 1. I'm assuming you do not since you're having trouble relating. I've used the retractable landing gear and 360 camera features. The 360 camera is merely a party trick when flying alone (it's great for impressing your friends!). And, the retractable landing gear is a must in order to pull off said party trick. Both sound fantastic on paper. When you try them in person, it's a very underwhelming experience.
The more I think about the less I think it's important.. I have enough on my hands flying and filming where I can see.. I don't think I could fly and simultaneously adjust the camera. Since I'm almost always alone I don't think the 360 camera is something that will add value to my videos. Maybe just maybe the obstacle avoidance on the H will allow me to get closer. I'm ok for now though I can wait for the reviews.


Sent from my iPad using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
EDIT: After update, still won't bind to iPad mini 2.

Wonder if its the iPad?

I can confirm with you IT IS THE IPAD MINI 2!

I have same problem with camera not connecting when DJI app is open in iPad mini 2. I contacted DJI and they said I need to do a ipad restore through iTunes for it to work... Well it worked for one time maybe, the next time when connected to iPad it did the same thing -- not finding the remote or camera.

I sold the iPad mini 2 and got an iPad Air 2 GPS version, no more problems. You need to get rid of the iPad Mini 2 and get something newer/better.
 
The conventional (and sensible) way to do that is to have aircraft-specific configuration files. Requiring completely separate installations running on different mobile devices seems an unlikely and unnecessary strategy, and I cannot imagine that it is intended.
Intention is mine, not DJI's! DJI would like to be in complete control of all my Phantoms. By sandboxing a complete perfectly working system, they cannot screw with it. Every time they put out an update, the first question every experienced user asks is not what did they add, but what did they take away or restrict, and what else did they screw with and change? :eek:
 
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I don't understand your point. I pulled the tab upwards and the sticker came off easily. How on earth did you manage to accomplish that only with "extreme difficulty"? And if it were not intended to be removed, why would it have a pull tab at all?
These orange tabbed stickers located only on the gimbal have been around for ages on Phantoms. They have never come off on their own, and after realizing that they aren't intended to come off, I have just left them on. No idea whether they do anything other than protect the surface underneath them, but no need to remove them either. They aren't covering the lens, which is the only sticker that would make a difference, if left on.
 
FINALLY WORKING!

I think I have not only the solution but the mix of what led to the problem for myself and others.

Will post when I am home. Still having range issues but it's connecting now for the moment.

Still not getting the range I am on my other P4 but when I get a chance, I'll put them head to head in a more open space. Also the gimbal does make a little bit of a sound that is weird when I tilt the bird up and down. Has anyone has this happen and does it lead do badness? This is on the second one.

EDIT: Something else is weird. 5336 mah is the MAX capacity on the NEW battery which is LESS than the any of my older and used batteries. That's below the actual amount listed on the battery.

All of my other bats have more, what gives on that? Am I looking too far or is that weird?


You must be trolling us now.... "will post when I am home..." still no post about what it was..

Is the sound you hearing like a scraping sound?
 
These orange tabbed stickers located only on the gimbal have been around for ages on Phantoms. They have never come off on their own, and after realizing that they aren't intended to come off, I have just left them on. No idea whether they do anything other than protect the surface underneath them, but no need to remove them either. They aren't covering the lens, which is the only sticker that would make a difference, if left on.

OK - well we are probably arguing in circles here. I don't understand how you jump from the (likely correct) observation "they have never come off on their own" to the conclusion "they aren't intended to come off". Many protective stickers don't come off on their own. However, I agree that there is probably no need to remove them in terms of the functionality of the units - also true of many protective stickers that manufacturers seem to slap on their products to protect various surfaces.
 
Amen. Read the instructions. Take a big breath. Know your limitations. If you can't figure out some of the rudimentary instructions perhaps it's best to not become one of many newbie drone pilots who crash and destroy their new drone in the first week of owning one.
Not only do I own another P4 that works perfect but I also own a whole lot of other "drones" and they also work fine, including the ones I built,
 
Are there any P4's where the skids don't have the gimbal lock indentations?
Both of mine have had them, one direct from DJI, and one from Best Buy.
I actually just noticed that my 2nd one does have the indented marks. It also had a protective sticker over the "DJI" logo which the other did not. Just different packaging. Sort of weird if you ask me.
 
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You must be trolling us now.... "will post when I am home..." still no post about what it was..

Is the sound you hearing like a scraping sound?
I'm assuming you're joking.

I actually on one of my many Google searches on the area, ran into a fix by Phantom PIlot's CCDD on the Phantom 3 forums who solved the problem for a bunch of people that were having the some problems with different combinations of an iPad Mini 2 and an iPhone 6+. I have noticed that there is a pattern, it's an iPad combined with an iPad with an iPhone 6+. I was told by one of the DJI guys to do a cache dump on the iPhone but I got disconnected from that guy while I was on the phone with him so finally I just did the cash dump (at the same time) as ERASING THE iPad FROM iTunes and restoring it through there, which I had done on DJIs suggestion several times to no avail but when I did it with the clean wipe from iTunes and the cache dump (including the firmware cache), it hooked back up again.

I read the post from someone else in here that he had the problem solved with this method and then it happened again and on the first flight while testing the newly working iPad it disconnected in mid-air again only to re-connect once it was back closer so I didn't have to go get the iPhone and it still connects but that was a bad sign especially when coupled with what he was saying.

The sound I hear is more like a mechanical sound when I go up and down. No, I would not say scraping is a good description.
 
I'm assuming you're joking.

I actually on one of my many Google searches on the area, ran into a fix by Phantom PIlot's CCDD on the Phantom 3 forums who solved the problem for a bunch of people that were having the some problems with different combinations of an iPad Mini 2 and an iPhone 6+. I have noticed that there is a pattern, it's an iPad combined with an iPad with an iPhone 6+. I was told by one of the DJI guys to do a cache dump on the iPhone but I got disconnected from that guy while I was on the phone with him so finally I just did the cash dump (at the same time) as ERASING THE iPad FROM iTunes and restoring it through there, which I had done on DJIs suggestion several times to no avail but when I did it with the clean wipe from iTunes and the cache dump (including the firmware cache), it hooked back up again.

I read the post from someone else in here that he had the problem solved with this method and then it happened again and on the first flight while testing the newly working iPad it disconnected in mid-air again only to re-connect once it was back closer so I didn't have to go get the iPhone and it still connects but that was a bad sign especially when coupled with what he was saying.

The sound I hear is more like a mechanical sound when I go up and down. No, I would not say scraping is a good description.

What is a cache/cash dump? how do you do this? So you have been restoring the ipad back every time you wipe? Have you tried it with just a fresh reset rather than restoring?
 
What is a cache/cash dump? how do you do this? So you have been restoring the ipad back every time you wipe? Have you tried it with just a fresh reset rather than restoring?
Cache is like a temporary memory hold. It's pronounced "cash" but spelled "cache", for example all of the info of what your maps are are held in cache, as is the info for things like settings, preferences, and firmware info. It's stuff that if you delete would be filled back up with the correct info immediately.

To erase the cache on a P4, you go to "Settings" on the main part of the GO app. It has it's own cache in each tab or phone that you fly with. When logged in, you can go to settings from the main screen on the go app and choose which type of cache or all the cache to erase.
 
Cache is like a temporary memory hold. It's pronounced "cash" but spelled "cache", for example all of the info of what your maps are are held in cache, as is the info for things like settings, preferences, and firmware info. It's stuff that if you delete would be filled back up with the correct info immediately.

To erase the cache on a P4, you go to "Settings" on the main part of the GO app. It has it's own cache in each tab or phone that you fly with. When logged in, you can go to settings from the main screen on the go app and choose which type of cache or all the cache to erase.


Im confused, a full erase and wipe, would remove all this "cache" f the app is deleted the "cache" should be removed as well? I thought you said you did all these things?
 
Im confused, a full erase and wipe, would remove all this "cache" f the app is deleted the "cache" should be removed as well? I thought you said you did all these things?
I deleted the app several times with no and reinstalled it and it still didn't work. The thing that made it work was when I deleted the cache on my iPhone (I have no idea what that would have anything to do with but a DJI guy told me to do it) and then I did a hard erase of all settings and contents on the Mini and then restored it back as a NEW iPad and then reinstalled the APP was the only way it worked. I did every other possible thing you could possibly imagine and everything you couldn't even think of, and some of them several times. This is the thing that worked (at least for the moment), but like I said, it disconnected from the app in mid-air again and had to start it's own RTH, but this time it reconnected on it's way back as I was about to put on the iPhone so that combined with the dude's comments about it working for him temporarily with this method and then not, makes my hopes that it will stay working, fairly low.

Does deleting the app erase the cache of the APP, most likely BUT, I was not erasing the cache on the iPhone or messing with the iPhone because it was working fine. I don't know what they have to do with each other, my guess is that when they sync they share the same cache info and something is getting wonky in the firmware cache, like there is something confusing it so that's why he wanted me to erase the cache off the iPhone. Remember that the guy that told me to do that I got disconnected from while he was saying that and he's been the only person to say that.
 
I deleted the app several times with no and reinstalled it and it still didn't work. The thing that made it work was when I deleted the cache on my iPhone (I have no idea what that would have anything to do with but a DJI guy told me to do it) and then I did a hard erase of all settings and contents on the Mini and then restored it back as a NEW iPad and then reinstalled the APP was the only way it worked. I did every other possible thing you could possibly imagine and everything you couldn't even think of, and some of them several times. This is the thing that worked (at least for the moment), but like I said, it disconnected from the app in mid-air again and had to start it's own RTH, but this time it reconnected on it's way back as I was about to put on the iPhone so that combined with the dude's comments about it working for him temporarily with this method and then not, makes my hopes that it will stay working, fairly low.

Does deleting the app erase the cache of the APP, most likely BUT, I was not erasing the cache on the iPhone or messing with the iPhone because it was working fine. I don't know what they have to do with each other, my guess is that when they sync they share the same cache info and something is getting wonky in the firmware cache, like there is something confusing it so that's why he wanted me to erase the cache off the iPhone. Remember that the guy that told me to do that I got disconnected from while he was saying that and he's been the only person to say that.
Does your orginal P4 have the same issue? time to get a new ipad me thinks - ipad 4 mini!
 
I can confirm with you IT IS THE IPAD MINI 2!

I have same problem with camera not connecting when DJI app is open in iPad mini 2. I contacted DJI and they said I need to do a ipad restore through iTunes for it to work... Well it worked for one time maybe, the next time when connected to iPad it did the same thing -- not finding the remote or camera.

I sold the iPad mini 2 and got an iPad Air 2 GPS version, no more problems. You need to get rid of the iPad Mini 2 and get something newer/better.

I have a Mini2 that works fine with both a P4 and a P3P. Didn't have to jump through any hoops, it just...works.
 
So here I am at The Groove in Hollywood which is the Beverly mega center for Apple so I decided to come here instead of Sherman Oaks and here is what happened so far.

I am making the assumption that you might know my story but the short of it is that I have 1 (my first Phantom that worked FANTASTIC but the last one had a Gimbal screech.

So I open one, and it didn't have the decal on the box or any of the cameras (CA, VPS).

Then I get another one and the Gimbal is clicking pretty loudly but I am picking my battles now so I was thinking of trying that one out. The one before it had some Panasonic generic 16 gig in it (the one that screeched). So now I'm on number 4 and it clicked just a little but I went to see what card was in it and the card was STUCK IN THE FRIGGEN bird. Nobody could get it out so that one was gone.

On to number 5 and the last one in the store. The gimbal is making a tiny drop of noise but I am fine with it.

Now I am on there last one and no decals and the DJI guy said that was weird so I'm thinking these are all refurbs and this one has a Sandisk Extreme in it.

It still won't connect with my Mini but I decided to activate this one in the store and it is currently upgrading.

If it doesn't work with my Mini should I buy a different Mini, Apple can't download to their iPads for me to check it against another Mini to troubleshoot the mini.

What should I do?

So frustrated!

I wrote that in about 80 seconds so I probably left out pertinent info.

EDIT: After update, still won't bind to iPad mini 2.

Wonder if its the iPad?
Are buying a 3 or 4?? I have a P3P.
Don't know about the IPad mini 2 but my IPad mini 4 works great every time. Maybe at the Apple Store they will let you try different mini's to see which you like the best.
 
Are buying a 3 or 4?? I have a P3P.
Don't know about the IPad mini 2 but my IPad mini 4 works great every time. Maybe at the Apple Store they will let you try different mini's to see which you like the best.
Believe it or not, they wouldn't. They could not be better to me so I'm not complaining but they can't download apps to anything but their computers and even that ain't that easy but it's impossible to their floor models without corporate putting it on.
 

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