Hello, bit of help needed.

[J Dot]

As always
Thank you, I'm going to abort tests for now, and try to get this bad boy to connect, so upgrade here I come!

However when I did the reset on remote above, I no longer get fast yellow lights? Maybe not a firmware reset but rather a Tx factory reset ( sticks n such? ) will review that more at a later time, figure I'd better get it working before I really screw it up!

I will post my findings

Lastly
If I do go to newest firmware on all,
Can i go back if I want to? Or is newest not able to be reverted back?

Thanks
I promise last question for a while!
I really do appreciate your time!
That goes for ALL of you!

A+

J Dot

 

[Oso]

the Tx reset seems to work, I can get it into unlock mode solid light blue led, 4 bars, but still no input from the USB drive? Will keep tinkering

Holding c1/c2/record button/depressing camera functions button, all 4 buttons depressed, turn on Tx, goes into a new mode ( almost the same as manual binding ), but that is as far as I've gotten, yet!
Will keep tinkering with it!

Here's the pic I have used to help people with that RC (Tx) reset.

But I'm getting told Tx firmware is different from bird firmware?
01.03.0020 for Tx
And either
01.08.0080
Or
01.09.0060 for craft

Is later the correct one!
Or am I missing something?

J Dot


Thanks!

The RC (Tx) and the AC have different FW version numbers. As you saw from the outdated videos, we used to use the same bin back in the old days when the USB method worked for updating the RC still worked. [There are SO MANY outdated videos!]

The latest versions are 1.9 for the AC and 1.6 for the RC.

You need to also keep in mind something important. If anyone has 1.8 or 1.9 on their AC, they must also have 1.6 on their RC. AC 1.8 and RC 1.6 were released together with an encryption change.

Your AC has 1.8. If you leave 1.8 installed, then your RC needs to be 1.6 to work for you. If you are able (and choose) to downgrade to 1.7 on your AC, then your RC can be at 1.5 or lower. I hope that makes sense.

It was much easier back before the encryption change when we could mix and match with ease. Now we have to make sure both the AC and RC have pre encryption change versions or that they both have post encryption change versions.

Side note - it was a mess when the encryption change was made and suddenly we had many threads with people who made changes and mixed the pre and post encryption versions. The release notes at the time included the requirement, but it didn't go smoothly for many.

 

[Oso]

If I do go to newest firmware on all,
Can i go back if I want to? Or is newest not able to be reverted back?

You can usually go back to one version below the HIGHEST version that has EVER been installed.
Does that make sense?

 

[RedHotPoker]

Yes, thankfully a couple of previous firmware versions are still available in the DJI download pages. For those of you, who need or want to use them. ;-)
Yes, going back one version should be simple, just down load the previous bin file and install to your drone.

RedHotPoker

 

[J Dot]

Yes
Thank you guys
Yes this sheds HUGE light on it ( I was unaware of the encryption change? ) this was my fault!
Now all makes sense!

I was aware ( pilot / go app change over ) but some of those videos were DEFINATELY go app, that's what threw me, got it now 100%

Nice to know you can revert once back, nice in case something weird happens In/with update! Pretty sweet!

Ok
Now I feel confident to fool with firmwares, so going to try to revert by one ( if possible )?
( as I don't know which firmware my Tx is yet ) maybe 1 version back will work?

Still don't know how to update Tx ( if needed ) as it won't link to app still?
But I'll keep trying!

Will keep you updated as well

THANKS AGAIN, you guys are awesome! Brilliant! And THE BEST!

J Dot

 

[J Dot]

ok,
successfully downgraded to 1.7.0.
screenshot below in attachment.
have not yet tested anything , just got excited it worked, and wanted you to double check
it was a success. if you understand it better than me.
thank you

J Dot

 

[flyNfrank]

Don't stop at version 1.5's. However, the higher ones are ok. 1.5.3 had major battery issue.
So....FW above 1.5.3 has fixed battery fw, but your speed has been reduced with outside temps below 70 degree's.

I use 1.4.1, it's a decent version but does have a drift issue that is not as bad as it sounds(I can explain if need be). I don't want my a/c slowed down, so I have to watch the volts while flying. If they reach a certain point the a/c will drop from the sky, I think.

I would love to be at 1.17, 1.1.9 or 1.3.2. Btw, 1.3.2 is a solid FW. It just has none of the follow me, waypoints, ect which are all a joke for the most part as these were not created properly.

 

[flyNfrank]

ok,
successfully downgraded to 1.7.0.
screenshot below in attachment.
have not yet tested anything , just got excited it worked, and wanted you to double check
it was a success. if you understand it better than me.
thank you

J Dot

I think 1.7.0 might be your limit now on how far you can go?

 

[Oso]

ok,
successfully downgraded to 1.7.0.
screenshot below in attachment.
have not yet tested anything , just got excited it worked, and wanted you to double check
it was a success. if you understand it better than me.
thank you

J Dot

Looks good to me. Now that you are at 1.7, your AC is back to a pre encryption change version. As such, your RC needs to be 1.5 or lower to match the encryption.

 

[flyNfrank]

Forgot to mention.....Blinking yellow pretty means you don't have enough satellites being received. Once you have 6, it will also save your home point and turn green.

 

[J Dot]

I reverted
All looks ok with bird, but still no connection to app? So I still cannot check TX firmware?
I reverted 4 apps so far, still no go
I'm waiting on a new device ( hopefully Friday ) nvidia shield.

I'm using my iPad 3
Just to test ( as another members iPad 3 works ) but mine won't.?

Maybe I just need to wait until I get a compatible device, so no question to compatability!

Without TX firmware version known, I'm just chasing ghosts! And I hate to update to newest as I'd like to start with lowest I can get, then upgrade if I want to, later. So if 1.7.0 is it, I'd really like to try to stay there ( if Tx's is not too up to date!

Wish there were another way to retrieve Tx firmware version OTHER than APP.

J Dot


Ps: at least it all makes sense now, lol! A+ guys. Man my bar tab is going to be HUGE, after I buy each of you a BEVERAGE! Cheers to you all!
Take care, Fly safe!

 

[J Dot]

Forgot to mention.....Blinking yellow pretty means you don't have enough satellites being received. Once you have 6, it will also save your home point and turn green.

Yes
It does that, but after the green flashes ( home point established ) I'm assuming?, then the lights go to FAST yellow blinking, same as if Tx were turned off ( and I've actually turned Tx off ) lights stay the same.
And it's doing it again now after firmware upgrade/revert.

Leads me to believe unit firmware mismatch ( bird / Tx )?

But Tx has green led ( like it is linked to bird, also pitch wheel works, and if I yaw the left stick, the camera yaws as well ) not sure if that means much, just what I observed.

Hopefully the right device will shed new light, the iPad mini turned out to be a 1, and gave me the same results, how to connect gimmick, no camera option!

So I need to step away, and maybe a new idea will pop into my head?

As always, Thank you guys!

J Dot

 

[RedHotPoker]

The old slow, iPad 3 is barely if even capable of running the power hungry Go app properly.
An iPad Air2 is the reigning king for device of choice... ;-)


RedHotPoker

 

[J Dot]

Yes that was my first choice ( iOS friendly ) but tight on squid, so was leaning towards the navidia shield ( also good reviews ), half the price.
But hopefully Friday I get a big check
( won't go into detail ) but work is shaky right now ( work is there, pay is slow ) I'll leave it at that!
So until I get paid up, I'm strapped!
I was trying iPad 3 because another tried with same device with positive results ( I was not planning on flying with it ) just wanted to learn the app, as I review the manual a bit more, so really only wanted to connect a) to see if bird and Tx both worked ( as I got them USED ) and also to learn a bit before I got airborne! But I cannot even get app to open, I had high hopes with the iPad mini 2, but turned out to be a 1, with same outcome, so I'll have to wait until I find a compatible device, to really test everything correctly, and not blindly! I just thought I'd get lucky, but as usual, if I had just followed the rules, maybe I would not be here now, but I don't regret it, feel a bit stupid for attempting with outdated device, ( that being said, NOW I KNOW ) so it was the hard way, I get it! but have learned SO MUCH, from you guys, it TRUELY is PRICELESS! So DEFINATELY a positive experience! Plus I got to meet some of you guys here in the P3 forum for the first time, and really happy to see some of you that I remember and have been friends with in the p2 forums! That is great!
Good bunch of pilots!

J Dot

 

[flyNfrank]

Yes
It does that, but after the green flashes ( home point established ) I'm assuming?, then the lights go to FAST yellow blinking, same as if Tx were turned off ( and I've actually turned Tx off ) lights stay the same.
And it's doing it again now after firmware upgrade/revert.

Leads me to believe unit firmware mismatch ( bird / Tx )?

But Tx has green led ( like it is linked to bird, also pitch wheel works, and if I yaw the left stick, the camera yaws as well ) not sure if that means much, just what I observed.

Hopefully the right device will shed new light, the iPad mini turned out to be a 1, and gave me the same results, how to connect gimmick, no camera option!

So I need to step away, and maybe a new idea will pop into my head?

As always, Thank you guys!

J Dot

No... I think it's time you attempt to Bind the A/C. Should be info in manual, and spot is on rightside of the VPM. If you look, you'll see 2 small holes.

 

[J Dot]

I did it again,
Light is green on Tx, if I shut bird off it goes red, turn bird on it goes green again, yaw works and so does dial wheel.
The light on the VPM is alternating ( green/red ) after binding is done ( had to manually bind Tx as I have no app. )
Got the initial alternating red/yellow/green, 3-4 times, than to 3 yellow flash, several times, then no green this time , just straight to fast yellow, I'll make a video!
Here you go:

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Maybe this will shed some light?
Got me stumped!

J Dot

 

[flyNfrank]

The A/C is not getting signal from R/C when fast Yellow.

Where is your GO app device? That needs to be connected to the R/C, Powered On and logged in where it says "Me". Then Power on R/C --> Power A/C.

With android you just power on the device that has GO app, Then when you power on R/C it will open the GO app to the Home page, then power A/C when ready to calibrate or fly.

 

[J Dot]

The A/C is not getting signal from R/C when fast Yellow.

Where is your GO app device? That needs to be connected to the R/C, Powered On and logged in where it says "Me". Then Power on R/C --> Power A/C.

With android you just power on the device that has GO app, Then when you power on R/C it will open the GO app to the Home page, then power A/C when ready to calibrate or fly.

I cannot get anywhere with app, most likely due to outdated tech. The newest device I have is an iPad 3, also tried iPhone 4s, iPad mini 1, and a hisense pro7, all the same, can't open app ( No camera option ) only how to connect screen! I did sign in, shows my data ect, level 0, no missions, and such!
Going to try to buy a new device Friday
( iPad Air 2, or navidia shield? )
So most likely I'll have to wait till then to test further!

But the loss of signal baffles me, as lights show bound? Do you think this could possibly be a firmware mismatch between RC and AC?

J Dot

 

[flyNfrank]

I cannot get anywhere with app, most likely due to outdated tech. The newest device I have is an iPad 3, also tried iPhone 4s, iPad mini 1, and a hisense pro7, all the same, can't open app ( No camera option ) only how to connect screen! I did sign in, shows my data ect, level 0, no missions, and such!
Going to try to buy a new device Friday
( iPad Air 2, or navidia shield? )
So most likely I'll have to wait till then to test further!

But the loss of signal baffles me, as lights show bound? Do you think this could possibly be a firmware mismatch between RC and AC?

J Dot

Ok then....you can relax totally because that's your hiccup. The nvidia k1 shield is the hot ticket. Just like all tablets you'll need a hood to see the screen in the sunlight. I look for shade to stand in and everything displays just fine at that point.

The small green light on right side of a/c shows it being bound.

 

[J Dot]

Excellent,
Thank you so much!
I'm planning on something new Friday, future looks bright!

Also my buddy has an iPhone 6 ( not sure which one ) but he might stop by after work, and let me try his phone, but if not, I will update by Friday, to keep you informed of my progress!
Hope you all had a great day, and have an even better evening!

J Dot