Easiest and Most Effective Antenna Mod?

I'm curious to here your opinion on both. Where I fly there's not much interference and stock I could get 3000ft before I would get low signal warnings and after the argtek I went 7760ft before the warnings. If the dbs is that much better I'd be out of battery before I ran out of signal


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The battery should last long enough to go twice that distance. My max so far is over 4000 meters (13,000') and I landed with 28% left.
 
@WilliamM thank you for the info! Your TX looks exactly like what I'm planning to configure mine like. Is there a vendor your recommend for best price on these Sunhans amps? From your attachment it looks like you have one gold and two silver...is that correct or is it just lighting? Also, did yours come with a battery bundle or did you splice the power cable into a battery?
As for where I got the silver amps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RX5X36I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd go with Amazon or eBay, item + shipping. Just find the best price with a return policy, you never know.
And again the main advantage to the gold amps is that you can use a USB power pack running at 5 volts. But with the silver amps you need a 12 volt power supply like mine (using a cable splitter).
 
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The battery should last long enough to go twice that distance. My max so far is over 4000 meters (13,000') and I landed with 28% left.

Wow, I need to do some more testing in areas with less interference (and warmer weather). I've been doing some night flights and right now in Colorado it's pretty darn cold and windy which isn't working in my favor. With everything working against me I had two short flights at about 60ft up @ 10min each and returned with a 12% charge.
 
Wow, I need to do some more testing in areas with less interference (and warmer weather). I've been doing some night flights and right now in Colorado it's pretty darn cold and windy which isn't working in my favor. With everything working against me I had two short flights at about 60ft up @ 10min each and returned with a 12% charge.
Colorado in Dec must be cold. You said 60' up, if you mean altitude? That's too low to get any nice range. As you move out further, you'll need to be at 200' min to 400' max.
 
Colorado in Dec must be cold. You said 60' up, if you mean altitude? That's too low to get any nice range. As you move out further, you'll need to be at 200' min to 400' max.
Interesting. Yes, I mean an altitude of 60'. I did notice that as I went up to 60' I was able to go further; ultimately to where I intended to go. I didn't consider that if I went higher I'd be able to go further though.
 
Interesting. Yes, I mean an altitude of 60'. I did notice that as I went up to 60' I was able to go further; ultimately to where I intended to go. I didn't consider that if I went higher I'd be able to go further though.
This is partly why this is so. Trees, hills or building that might be between you and the craft.
More neat info here. Maxx UAV
The other is the more height you have the further away any interference might be.
RemotesignalIllustration01.png
 
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You are correct, the 5.8GHz is gold and the two silver ones are for the 2.4GHz (wifi). The only real reason I even got the gold one was because I got it off eBay for a good cost. On the power supply, since I have the silver ones I needed a 12 volt supply for them. So bought one 12v which powers all three. You can see the vendor's name right on the pic of the battery it came from. See pic.
William, are you saying that battery has three leads? Thanks
 
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This is greatly helpful. Thank you for sharing. It's a bit of a cable-y mess but that's a ton of distance power at an affordable rate!

Edit: I think I'll make custom wires from the included AC adapters and cut off one of the ends from the 12v battery and solder the cable ends together. That will help shorten the length of wires and ultimately accomplish the same thing.
 
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This is partly why this is so. Trees, hills or building that might be between you and the craft.
More neat info here. Maxx UAV
The other is the more height you have the further away any interference might be.
RemotesignalIllustration01.png
As soon as I got home I had to try 200-300 ft...and wow...I was immediately up against my 1500' max range limit. I'll have to try tomorrow when it's warmer to see how much further I can go!
 
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I just put everything in my cart on Amazon and it comes out to about $175. I had considered this but I have a Phantom 3 Professional on the way.
 
A good rule of thumb is if you can see the model as a clear line from your controller - you are OK.
The problem of course gets worse as you get further out and model is then no longer visible. Then you need to be ultra careful about maintaining sufficient height.

One factor that is often overlooked. GHz freq's such as the 2.4 and 5.8 are seriously affected by any obstacle in the path. Unlike old days of MHz where good signal could still be maintained even with obstacles. This has caught out quite a few old-timers who swap from the old 35 / 40 / 72 MHz to today's 2.4 or 5.8 GHz.
I gave a demo one day of the effect of a chain-link fence on a range check of a typical 2.4 system. That chain link fence seriously reduced that range check.

So as the Actress said to the Bishop - Keep it Up !

Nigel
 
I just put everything in my cart on Amazon and it comes out to about $175. I had considered this but I have a Phantom 3 Professional on the way.

You could sell the Standard 2nd hand --- add that $175 and buy an Advanced in a sale .....

I was looking at our national online sales site in Latvia .... Advanced with extra gear going for $700 ...... Pro's going for $800 .....

In some ways - I kick myself for buying the Standard even though I'm happy with it.

Nigel
 
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I have never regretted getting my Standard esp since I got the DBS mod but I got a really good deal on a Pro from the classifieds on this site. 2 controllers (1 modded with the DBS), a case, the bird of course, 3 batteries and some other extras for the cost of a new Pro. Couldn't pass it up!
 
In the states, 27MHz was very common for aircraft remote control. Same frequencies as the CB band, but just a half of a channel off. I still have airplanes and helicopters still using 27MHz. I don't recall exactly when, but 72MHz was also later used.
 
27mgz was a universal freq for all models for many years and then CB came along. CB was at the top end if the RC band but problem was when the CB boys added boosters. The 'splatter' was awful and it could shoot down a model easily even when not same channel. I had incidents as well as many friends back in the 1970's of this in Uk.
One incident the CB guy was 'found' laughing in his car after switching on his booster and destroying a beautiful scale slope soarer. I will only say that we had a 'chat' with him.

In UK they at first tried to steer CB people to 495 .... but of course no-one did as 27 sets were cheap from USA etc. UK then decided to split the model scene by taking Europes 35mhz for aircraft and keep 27 for all - which meant surface models were 27 only.
40 and 41 were not initially allowed in uk for surface models and 72 was only allowed for visiting competitors ....
It all got sorted in UK eventually when 2.4 appeared. But UK still has 35 for air allocated as well.

I don't know about other countries as I was only a SMAE representative involved in UK frequencies back in the 1980's.

Nigel
 
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CB and RC was around in the 50's here at least. Although both used vacuum tubes (valves) then too. The controllers were pretty crude too. I don't recall anybody using joysticks back then. Just a box of switches and knobs.
 
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Not yet. Weather has either been freezing rain, or snow, or very windy, or just too freaking cold. I'd prefer milder weather to do the tests. I might be able to fly from car if I can get out in daylight. I work nights and sleep days, so getting out in light is hard to do.
 

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