Dual Battery Mod
- Thread starter Rocket_Aus
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Yep. Mint hit 78mph before it went in like a meteor. Look at 6:36 on the flight time..... It gets crazy but DJI replaced it no questions asked.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1...?key=Y0o4bGQ1TmtVLVE1cDRVdjVNNm5wTTFjYXBLVlRB
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Look at the first post........Dude did you activate a nitros system on your phantom lol
Yeah in the exact same wind conditions my P3 Pro firmware 1.19 out runs my P3A firmware 1.41 buy more than 5 mph in GPS mode with a tailwind.
My P3A Firmware 1.41 with an 11 mph tailwind maxed out at 35.3 mph. My P3P firmware 1.19 maxed out at 41.2 mph big speed difference. The firmware upgrade to 1.41 slowed my P3A down alot in GPS mode.
Thanks for the reply, I truly understand what you are saying. But I still see the math in just taking your batteries and just switch from one battery to another through a switch of some sort, does that sound logical. Just imagine the stock battery starting off the flight and you get fifteen minutes of flight due to weight of all three batteries, then switch from stock battery to battery # 1 on the right side of drone getting additional fifteen minutes, then switching to battery #2 on the left side to get an additional fifteen minutes, that's 45 minutes of flight time. I believe if you can switch from battery to battery cleanly you can gain more time by already adjusting weight.
If each battery can fly the drone on its own, use each battery separately and gain more time without trying to find a sweet spot by hooking all three together.
That's just my thoughts however flawed they may be. The key of course is having a circuit that can do the job and of diminishable weight.
I'm waiting on the" fly away parachute " that I ordered from Russia.
What it does is put a 50 inch parachute on the bottom landing gear below the camera, it is very light 104 grams or less. Also there is a very small trigger circuit board that is attached to the batteries and p3. In your hand or attached to your waist is a push button trigger that sends a separate signal to the circuit board that sends a voltage to the parachute switch and then opens. What I'm getting at is that if you can get a switch to switch from one battery to another however by you or automatically. Does this not sound in theory that it will work.
Thanks Robert
If each battery can fly the drone on its own, use each battery separately and gain more time without trying to find a sweet spot by hooking all three together.
That's just my thoughts however flawed they may be. The key of course is having a circuit that can do the job and of diminishable weight.
I'm waiting on the" fly away parachute " that I ordered from Russia.
What it does is put a 50 inch parachute on the bottom landing gear below the camera, it is very light 104 grams or less. Also there is a very small trigger circuit board that is attached to the batteries and p3. In your hand or attached to your waist is a push button trigger that sends a separate signal to the circuit board that sends a voltage to the parachute switch and then opens. What I'm getting at is that if you can get a switch to switch from one battery to another however by you or automatically. Does this not sound in theory that it will work.
Thanks Robert
Have you looked into the mars mini v2 parachute system. Its triggered automatically. The problem with the system you described is that it won't work during a flyaway because the props are still spinning. Unless of course you CSC and kill the motors in midair. Also I'm sure the range is pretty minimal and certainly won't work from 5 or 6 miles away. Just a thought. Unless there's more to it. What brand is it?
GadgetGuy
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Unless you are ditching batteries along the way as expended (very expensive!), like a three stage rocket, whether you switch serially between your batteries, or run them in parallel, you are still carrying the entire combined battery weight throughout the flight, so there is nothing to be gained by your proposed alternative method, except catastrophic failure during a failed switchover.
Not a big believer in strapping parachutes or floaties to P3P's. It won't prevent crashes, and it won't help you over water. The speed with which it hits the ground won't matter with the camera and gimbal exposed anyway. My first P3P dropped like a rock from 400 feet onto concrete, and the gimbal and camera were missing, the battery was ejected and broken, and props were damaged. However, it still powered up after a new battery was inserted!
Hello and thanks for your reply, my friend I'm not talking about dumping batteries. Lets look at your machine.
If I understand you correctly you are connecting three batteries in parallel to get more flight time correct? With the added weight of your two extra batteries you achieve about twenty five minutes of flight time.
Now lets say I have the same exact machine as yourself with the same batteries, a stock battery and two matched rated batteries. with my set up the stock battery would power the drone first, and then when it gets depleted down to a certain level a circuit onboard would switch to another battery. The trick is to find a circuit that can switch from one battery to another. this is in theory only. If the stock battery runs the drone out of the box for 20 minutes, and I then add two extra battery's, my flight time will go down to about 14 minutes do to added weight. if I switch from one battery to another that is rated the same would I not get at least the same amount of time, which would be about 38 minutes total give or take. the trick is getting a circuit that can switch from one battery to another cleanly..
I believe if we had the same machine with the same weight and batteries, I would in theory get more flight time.
I'm neither wiring up in parallel nor series, just adding. I'm sure there is a circuit that can be built that can do the job. but I can be way off. it will be fun finding out.
As for the parachute , I'm just enjoying a great hobby with time on my hands. I'm retired from computer and electrical industrial repair.
The parachute attaches to the bottom of the landing gear below the camera. its very lite. Also onboard is a small circuit the size of a quarter that connects to the main P3 board and battery. While you are flying and trouble comes up, you will push a button from a transmitter that will send a signal to the onboard circuit. That circuit will disconnect the power from the drone and switch it to the parachute, which in turn will activate the chute. Is it needed, of course not. but it will be fun.
As for you folks that fly way beyond site are daring and exciting. I too will get more experience and trust myself to fly way out.
Thanks........Robert
If I understand you correctly you are connecting three batteries in parallel to get more flight time correct? With the added weight of your two extra batteries you achieve about twenty five minutes of flight time.
Now lets say I have the same exact machine as yourself with the same batteries, a stock battery and two matched rated batteries. with my set up the stock battery would power the drone first, and then when it gets depleted down to a certain level a circuit onboard would switch to another battery. The trick is to find a circuit that can switch from one battery to another. this is in theory only. If the stock battery runs the drone out of the box for 20 minutes, and I then add two extra battery's, my flight time will go down to about 14 minutes do to added weight. if I switch from one battery to another that is rated the same would I not get at least the same amount of time, which would be about 38 minutes total give or take. the trick is getting a circuit that can switch from one battery to another cleanly..
I believe if we had the same machine with the same weight and batteries, I would in theory get more flight time.
I'm neither wiring up in parallel nor series, just adding. I'm sure there is a circuit that can be built that can do the job. but I can be way off. it will be fun finding out.
As for the parachute , I'm just enjoying a great hobby with time on my hands. I'm retired from computer and electrical industrial repair.
The parachute attaches to the bottom of the landing gear below the camera. its very lite. Also onboard is a small circuit the size of a quarter that connects to the main P3 board and battery. While you are flying and trouble comes up, you will push a button from a transmitter that will send a signal to the onboard circuit. That circuit will disconnect the power from the drone and switch it to the parachute, which in turn will activate the chute. Is it needed, of course not. but it will be fun.
As for you folks that fly way beyond site are daring and exciting. I too will get more experience and trust myself to fly way out.
Thanks........Robert
GadgetGuy
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I knew you weren't, but, as I see it, that's the only way your method would add flying time over the parallel method, which requires all three batteries throughout the flight. First of all, I'm only getting 15 minutes out of the stock battery on original motors and original shell. I get 8 minutes more by adding the two 1600 externals. I only get 2-3 minutes more with the 2800's. Running the batteries in series cannot prolong the flying time over parallel because the weight of the extra batteries isn't changing inyour alternative. You still have to lift that extra weight throughout the flight, no matter whether using them in parallel, or in series, one after the other. The switch won't change that. Also, none of the externals are powerful enough to fly the bird alone. The internal battery is 4480 mAh. Even the 2800's are only 62% of the internal mAh, but they also already add 247g each to the payload, so you can't go bigger.
Parachutes are like air bags. They can save a life, or end one, depending upon when they decide to open and where. A parachute that activates when my bird is over water (the majority of my flight time) is a death sentence. YMMV.
Have fun, and fly safely.
Every flight where the bird comes home is a good one!
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FW 1.4
RC FW 1.5.70
Batt FW 1.4
2x 2400 mAh LiHV Hyperion G6.
Lots of flying, cold temperatures, a lot of wind (35-55 kmh). And the main battery is not too new either.
Wow
RC FW 1.5.70
Batt FW 1.4
2x 2400 mAh LiHV Hyperion G6.
Lots of flying, cold temperatures, a lot of wind (35-55 kmh). And the main battery is not too new either.
Wow
The 2400 Hyperions G6 LiHV weigh 210 grams - I haven't found ANY battery that is lighter for the same power. I have tested many batteries and these remain my batteries of choice for the P3.
Most similar batteries are a lot heavier. Don't know how they do it...
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So I might've missed it but what your distance record with 29 minutes flight timeFW 1.4
RC FW 1.5.70
Batt FW 1.4
2x 2400 mAh LiHV Hyperion G6.
Lots of flying, cold temperatures, a lot of wind (35-55 kmh). And the main battery is not too new either.
Wow
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so could mount the trays like this fits in case tucks battery under quad away from prop wash....battery tray from hobbyking or ebay
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Where did you get those battery trays? Been looking for something like that.
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I received those same trays from Paul at fpvcustoms.com. Maybe send him an email and ask for them or check eBay.
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Well longest flight times and long distance record is one goal,and just to share some ideas..the closer I get to spring time the closer I get to my goal mmmmmmmwwwaahaha.
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