Best Camera Settings

[fhagan02]

I personally am not a big fan of spending a lot of time in post. But I've found the 2-3-2, LOG and ND filters necessities to maximize your chances of capturing the best footage. Otherwise when you shoot at different times and locations during the same day, you'll end up spending too much time 'dialing in settings' or guessing wrong and limiting ability to correct in Post. A lot of my footage I've gotta get quick in and out [emoji6] so the only thing I usually change manually are WB, ND/CP filter type, AE lock and go!
The longer I'm in an area, the more people want to chit chat and cause me to lose focus. Lost a bird deep in a canyon this way due to these distractions when wind gusts picked up and prevented RTH (RIP: Golden Rod I)

Even though I do like grading an correcting....Ditto all the above.
And because of the time factor I've found the best/fastest way to shoot isn't by manually tweaking the settings. WB yes I'll set that. But with the proper ND installed I'll point the camera around on Auto until ISO and SS get to the sweet spot. (ISO100-200 and SS 50-100) Then I'll tap the AE lock and film away. Works great and I don't exhaust 25% of my batter fiddling with camera settings.

 

[fhagan02]

I gotta say I did a video shoot today for a real estate guy and I tried the -2-3-2 with a nd16 wb5000 4k ISO 100 and 1/60. When I got home and looked at it I was disappointed as it looked washed out. Anyway I applied some color correction numbers which won't mean much unless your using the same video editing software. The result was surprising, turned out really good at least my wife thinks so. The vids to seem to have more life in them. Looks like I'll be sticking with what I call the Hagan numbers for a while.

Thanks for the feedback, John. Post your vid if possible. The washed out "flat look" was really hard for me to get used to at first glance. But it's all about how much dynamic range is left in the shot. Nothing blown out to pure white and nothing crushed to pure black. Soft, gray and flat... right in the middle of both extremes. When something is crushed to black or blown out to pure white... the damage is done. No matter what tools are out there, you can't get those details back in post editing or any other post-processing trick. You can only work with what you have and flat will allow you to do so much more....if you so choose. Now when I bring up a recently shot scene on my computer, and it's very flat and washed out... I get excited.

 

[fhagan02]

Quick comparison shooting flat then correcting.

 

[EPT160]

What are your suggested settings for taking photos with the p3p and what are your thoughts on the 3 or 5 bkt shooting. I have 2 sets of ND filters 4 8 16 & 32 but have not purchased a graduated filter yet.

If you are most interested in shooting stills with your P3P then the best single filter is a polarizing filter, except before and after sunrise/sunset (but I still use them ... or try). You definitely do not need a ND (Neutral Density) filter, unless you wish to blur motion and or shoot video at the same time. A compromise.

An ND filter is exactly what it says ... a Neutral Density that reduces light evenly over the whole sensor area, be it highlights or shadows, all affected equally. No change in the dynamic range.

ND filters are generally mandatory for use in all video ... to slow the shutter speed to create a little bit of motion blur between frames. In stills photography, particularly aerial photography, motion blur is just what we do not want. We generally want sharp crisp images.

For landscape images and particularly aerial photos, a polarizing filter (PL) will greatly increase the clarity of most distant features. Additionally it will reduce reflections off all organic surfaces, which means foliage and rocks and even skin, as well as certain angles of a blue sky - ie saturating the whole image and darkening the blue sky, highlighting clouds. The net result of this is a very much more saturated and crisp image.

The trouble with the correct application of a polarizing filter (PL) is that to be effective it should be visually rotated for best effect for every angle to the sun and subject. Something that is very difficult when flying at random with a P3P. You can only really set it at the one orientation and FLY.

But really, PL filters are the best way to go, I have one on at all times if the sun is up, and just add some extra NDs to control shutter for video when needed. A polarizing filter is worth 2 stops of shutter speed, so add an ND 8 and you have subtracted a full 5 stops or EVs for your video.

 

[Bigdz]

Quick comparison shooting flat then correcting.
View attachment 32756

Fhagan any suggestions you can give for SRP ND 16-8 Grad. I tested it out the other day and my results were not pleasing. Used 2.7k 30fps. Did the suggested camera settings in manual mode and for some reason everything seemed blown out.

 

[JB-I]

Yes this is a constant battle as your environment lighting can change drastically. It's ok if your exposure meter fluctuates a little. What I often do is fly in all auto, point the camera around (at lighter or darker views) by yawing or tilting until the SS and ISO hit the sweet spot. Then I tap the AE lock. It's the "AE" button on the top right of the screen. It'll turn blue and the SS and ISO will not change util you tap it again. (For 24/25pfs a SS of 50 is ideal but you can go as high as 100 on your SS and be ok. You just don't want a SS of 500 or 1500.)

Forgive me if this is a dumb question but how does shooting in full auto with an AE Lock at 100 ISO & 50 SS different than shooting in Manual Mode with the same settings? The other question I have is no matter what I do with Yaw gain adjustments and very slow panning, I can not get a smooth image without any stuttering when shooting 4K with these settings! But when I shoot in 1080p @60 fps, the problem goes away. I know the advantages of shooting in 4K for post processing purposes but the panning(yaw) is really frustrating me.

 

[fhagan02]

Fhagan any suggestions you can give for SRP ND 16-8 Grad. I tested it out the other day and my results were not pleasing. Used 2.7k 30fps. Did the suggested camera settings in manual mode and for some reason everything seemed blown out.

Hummmm. Something isn't set right. Post the example if you can. It's difficult to discern what you're taking about and I'd be happy to take a look and give you my two cents.

 

[fhagan02]

Forgive me if this is a dumb question but how does shooting in full auto with an AE Lock at 100 ISO & 50 SS different than shooting in Manual Mode with the same settings? The other question I have is no matter what I do with Yaw gain adjustments and very slow panning, I can not get a smooth image without any stuttering when shooting 4K with these settings! But when I shoot in 1080p @60 fps, the problem goes away. I know the advantages of shooting in 4K for post processing purposes but the panning(yaw) is really frustrating me.

No questions are dumb questions. It's because you're locking the exposure in the same place you would be manually setting it anyway (ISO100 S.S. 50). So it's the same "camera settings" whether you do it manually or by watching the exposure while in auto and locking it in when you see it get to the sweet spot.

The stuttering yaw is because you're yawing too fast and/or your shutter speed is too high per the frame rate you're recording. This is a common issue with any camera whether it's hand held or aerial. More frames per second (60) captures more and faster movement so you can yaw faster. Try slowing the yaw movement even more when shooting 24-30fps and you'll notice the problem will go away. A proper shutter speed of 50-100 will also help this tremendously.

Post a video showing the issue. That could reveal more?

Hope this helps.

 

[JB-I]

No questions are dumb questions. It's because you're locking the exposure in the same place you would be manually setting it anyway (ISO100 S.S. 50). So it's the same "camera settings" whether you do it manually or by watching the exposure while in auto and locking it in when you see it get to the sweet spot.

The stuttering yaw is because you're yawing too fast and/or your shutter speed is too high per the frame rate you're recording. This is a common issue with any camera whether it's hand held or aerial. More frames per second (60) captures more and faster movement so you can yaw faster. Try slowing the yaw movement even more when shooting 24-30fps and you'll notice the problem will go away. A proper shutter speed of 50-100 will also help this tremendously.

Post a video showing the issue. That could reveal more?

Hope this helps.

Thank You fhagan02. Here is a short video (nothing special) showing first a yawing being performed at different rates. Then a turn which granted is a little better but still is not smooth. Any suggestions or help you can provide is very appreciated! P.S. This is the first time I try to upload and post a Youtube Video and I notice that it looks darker then the original file on my computer.

 

[fhagan02]

Thank You fhagan02. Here is a short video (nothing special) showing first a yawing being performed at different rates. Then a turn which granted is a little better but still is not smooth. Any suggestions or help you can provide is very appreciated! P.S. This is the first time I try to upload and post a Youtube Video and I notice that it looks darker then the original file on my computer.

OK! Thanks for posting. I see what you're saying now. It looks like it could be a couple things....
ON THE FIRST SHOT THAT SEEMS MORE CHOPPY...
1. Are you using manual settings or auto? You shutter speed is still looks too high? Do you remember what it was set on? Flying at this time of day is very deceptive. It "looks like" it's not very bright out or at least not as bright as midday. But it is very bright when the sun is on a low angle like this. If you're in auto mode this can make your shutter speed jump up to 800+. That alone will result in choppy yaw movements in the video. When I pause the video during the yaw your image is still perfectly sharp frame by frame. There should be a little bit of motion blur if you shutter speed was at the 50-ish mark.
2. The Yaw you make is still fairly fast for a 24fps shot. (Even my Hand held GH4 I'll get this choppy motion if I pan too fast.)
3. What SD card are you using? You need one thats capable of around 50Mb/s (Megabits per second) If the card isn't fast enough you would see this choppy motion because the cards writing speed can't keep up. (If your using the SD that came with the P3 this is point is mute as that card is fast enough.)

ON THE SECOND SHOT....
Seems much better. What was the difference in settings on this shot vs. the first one
NOTE: Notice the movement when you're going straight forward. It's very smooth. I think because the movement is much slower and there for the information in the scene is changing at a slower rate than the yaw movements.

Hope this helps and let me know.....

 

[JB-I]

OK! Thanks for posting. I see what you're saying now. It looks like it could be a couple things....
ON THE FIRST SHOT THAT SEEMS MORE CHOPPY...
1. Are you using manual settings or auto? You shutter speed is still looks too high? Do you remember what it was set on? Flying at this time of day is very deceptive. It "looks like" it's not very bright out or at least not as bright as midday. But it is very bright when the sun is on a low angle like this. If you're in auto mode this can make your shutter speed jump up to 800+. That alone will result in choppy yaw movements in the video. When I pause the video during the yaw your image is still perfectly sharp frame by frame. There should be a little bit of motion blur if you shutter speed was at the 50-ish mark.
2. The Yaw you make is still fairly fast for a 24fps shot. (Even my Hand held GH4 I'll get this choppy motion if I pan too fast.)
3. What SD card are you using? You need one thats capable of around 50Mb/s (Megabits per second) If the card isn't fast enough you would see this choppy motion because the cards writing speed can't keep up. (If your using the SD that came with the P3 this is point is mute as that card is fast enough.)

ON THE SECOND SHOT....
Seems much better. What was the difference in settings on this shot vs. the first one
NOTE: Notice the movement when you're going straight forward. It's very smooth. I think because the movement is much slower and there for the information in the scene is changing at a slower rate than the yaw movements.

Hope this helps and let me know.....

I have been using the 100 ISO and 60 SS in Manual Mode & -2,-3,-2 on these shots. It was about an hour before sundown on both shots. ( As i said they look a little darker when I uploaded to Youtube. Also I was using a ND8 filter and may have been a little under exposed in the original shot) I know there is some faster yawing in the first shot but I did at one point try to slowdown as much as i could and it still was jerky. I am really trying to determine if there is a problem with my gimbal (never crashed). I am using a SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB. I thought I read some where that there is a minimum yaw rate at which the P3P can turn, also have you ever noticed when the P3P is turned on and sitting on your table if you move the Yaw stick left or right the gimbal will actually move left and right a little anticipating the motion. I wonder if there is an interaction with the yawing and gimbal algorithms under certain situations. (by the way I'm running on full updated firmware, gimbal and RC with an iPad Air 2)

Another question is in the second scene, do you think the monastery building looks too blurry with these settings. I like the way the trees look more natural but I wish the POI (i.e. building) was a little sharper. Or is that the tradeoff you have to accept?

I know your not an expert on the P3P hardware and can't tell me if there is a mechanical problem, but I very much appreciate your feedback on settings!

 

[R2-D2]

I tried these settings and went to a racetrack to film over the weekend. I must have done something wrong as my footage looks terrible.

I set -2-3-2 and WB to 5000 and video was on 4k 30 FPS and this did get rid the aliasing issue with white strips on the race track are now smooth. However all of the cars on the track are choppy or very jerky in movement. I don't think I set any shutter speeds at all I didn't know we could do that. Did not setting the proper SS make all the video choppy? I also few it over the desert and it was cool but that was also very choppy.

I'm confused on another issue. Does the P3P also record in 2.7k? When I have the DJI GO app powered on with the aircraft also on. I only have a couple of options for 4k in 24 FPS and 4k 30 FPS. But when I turn on just the DJI GO app without the aircraft on, I see 2.7k options come up for recording but never when the aircraft is on.

Maybe its just a bug.

 

[JB-I]

Just a side note I thought the monastery was a prison. I guess in one sense it is. Sorry I know you guys are having a serious discussion. I am interested as well. Just had to comment as that was my thought when I first saw the clip.

LOL I'm sure the Dominican Nuns won't hold it against you!

 

[fhagan02]

I have been using the 100 ISO and 60 SS in Manual Mode & -2,-3,-2 on these shots. It was about an hour before sundown on both shots. ( As i said they look a little darker when I uploaded to Youtube. Also I was using a ND8 filter and may have been a little under exposed in the original shot) I know there is some faster yawing in the first shot but I did at one point try to slowdown as much as i could and it still was jerky. I am really trying to determine if there is a problem with my gimbal (never crashed). I am using a SanDisk Extreme PRO 64GB. I thought I read some where that there is a minimum yaw rate at which the P3P can turn, also have you ever noticed when the P3P is turned on and sitting on your table if you move the Yaw stick left or right the gimbal will actually move left and right a little anticipating the motion. I wonder if there is an interaction with the yawing and gimbal algorithms under certain situations. (by the way I'm running on full updated firmware, gimbal and RC with an iPad Air 2)

Another question is in the second scene, do you think the monastery building looks too blurry with these settings. I like the way the trees look more natural but I wish the POI (i.e. building) was a little sharper. Or is that the tradeoff you have to accept?

I know your not an expert on the P3P hardware and can't tell me if there is a mechanical problem, but I very much appreciate your feedback on settings!

Ok Gotcha.
Process of elimination: (You've probably tried these but I'm just throwing things out the I would try)
• Have you tired another SD card just to be sure? Micro SD's are pretty much indestructible BUT I've had them go bad in the past. Perhaps try the one that came with the P3.
• Check the ribbon cable that connects the gimbal/camera to the body. Make sure it's clicked in tight.
• Have you tried a POI shot? Do a PIO Circle at about 4-5 mph and watch the outer edge of the frame where there's more motion. See if it also looks choppy there. Mine films smooth at this speed.
• Try setting the camera at ISO100 and S.S. at 50 at sunset again. (Even if the image isn't exposed properly just keep these settings and film while yawing.
• Try setting the camera at ISO100 and a crazy low S.S. of 25 at around the same sunset time. I say sunset because the image will be blown out in midday and you won't be able to see much in the video. The video at a SS of 25 will be very mushy and way too much motion blur. Choppy motion will almost be impossible at this low shutter speed. But if you still have the stutter in your yaw movement this may indicate a problem with the camera's encoding while recording.

I know of a couple of folks that no matter what they tried, in every kind of light, in every kind of environment.... they still had poor video. I was a malfunction in the camera itself. They sent in back, got a new camera installed and the problem went away. I'm not convinced this is your issue but try the steps above to see if there are noticeable changes.

I don't think the building looks too blurry. You can always add a little sharpening in post. (The in-camera sharpening is what's bad.)

 

[JB-I]

Ok Gotcha.
Process of elimination: (You've probably tried these but I'm just throwing things out the I would try)
• Have you tired another SD card just to be sure? Micro SD's are pretty much indestructible BUT I've had them go bad in the past. Perhaps try the one that came with the P3.
• Check the ribbon cable that connects the gimbal/camera to the body. Make sure it's clicked in tight.
• Have you tried a POI shot? Do a PIO Circle at about 4-5 mph and watch the outer edge of the frame where there's more motion. See if it also looks choppy there. Mine films smooth at this speed.
• Try setting the camera at ISO100 and S.S. at 50 at sunset again. (Even if the image isn't exposed properly just keep these settings and film while yawing.
• Try setting the camera at ISO100 and a crazy low S.S. of 25 at around the same sunset time. I say sunset because the image will be blown out in midday and you won't be able to see much in the video. The video at a SS of 25 will be very mushy and way too much motion blur. Choppy motion will almost be impossible at this low shutter speed. But if you still have the stutter in your yaw movement this may indicate a problem with the camera's encoding while recording.

I know of a couple of folks that no matter what they tried, in every kind of light, in every kind of environment.... they still had poor video. I was a malfunction in the camera itself. They sent in back, got a new camera installed and the problem went away. I'm not convinced this is your issue but try the steps above to see if there are noticeable changes.

I don't think the building looks too blurry. You can always add a little sharpening in post. (The in-camera sharpening is what's bad.)

Those are definitely great suggestions! I will execute these over the next couple of days. Thank you for your time!

 

[fhagan02]

I tried these settings and went to a racetrack to film over the weekend. I must have done something wrong as my footage looks terrible.

I set -2-3-2 and WB to 5000 and video was on 4k 30 FPS and this did get rid the aliasing issue with white strips on the race track are now smooth. However all of the cars on the track are choppy or very jerky in movement. I don't think I set any shutter speeds at all I didn't know we could do that. Did not setting the proper SS make all the video choppy? I also few it over the desert and it was cool but that was also very choppy.

I'm confused on another issue. Does the P3P also record in 2.7k? When I have the DJI GO app powered on with the aircraft also on. I only have a couple of options for 4k in 24 FPS and 4k 30 FPS. But when I turn on just the DJI GO app without the aircraft on, I see 2.7k options come up for recording but never when the aircraft is on.

Maybe its just a bug.

Yes the choppy look could be the shutter speed being too high. (30fps should be shooting with a shutter speed of around 60-100.) That said it's hard to say without seeing what you're seeing. Post a video of the issue and we'll take a look.

The P3P doesn't shoot in 2.7K. You see it in the app because it's not connected to an aircraft. The app runs all P3's so it doesn't know what P3 you have until it connects. That's why the 2.7K "disappears" and isn't available.

Check out this video about NDs and more camera settings...

 

[pchin2]

Wish I had seen this thread prior to my shooting!

Last week I visited a beach & it was very challenging to shoot properly. I even forgot to change to my polarizer filter to cut off the water reflection. I'll go back soon to the beach & reshoot...round 2! First, I will need to watch all the videos by Frederick Hagan & change my setting. Thanks a lot mate.

I made too many mistakes...arrh!! But it was indeed a great learning experience. Hope to do much better next time.

Pls comment if you think the video is over exposed & too saturated. Few of my friends gave different feedback. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

 

[EPT160]

I
I must have done something wrong as my footage looks terrible.

..video was on 4k 30 FPS and this did get rid the aliasing issue with white strips on the race track are now smooth. However all of the cars on the track are choppy or very jerky in movement..

Maybe its just a bug.

To replay 4K video smoothly on a PC or Mac, you do need a reasonably well 'specd' machine. Probably the vast majority of PC/Macs in use today do not have the horse power to decode 4K video smoothly on the fly. Shoot some 1080P and see if that replays smoothly.

 

[fhagan02]

To replay 4K video smoothly on a PC or Mac, you do need a reasonably well 'specd' machine. Probably the vast majority of PC/Macs in use today do not have the horse power to decode 4K video smoothly on the fly. Shoot some 1080P and see if that replays smoothly.

Try VLC Player if you're on a Mac. It's free and plays 4K much smoother than the default QuickTime player.

 

[fhagan02]

This is the only way I could find you. I am requesting a critique of my video from you. I used all your suggested settings ie -2-3-2, WB 5000, ISO 100 SS 1/60 and ND 16 filter. Video shot on 2 different days early Oct and today Oct 23d. Flying a p3p.
Thanks in advance John

First off... great work. You've captured the surrounding areas with slow easy movements. I can't stress "slow and gentle flying" enough to folks. You've done this well. This also plays well off of the music bed you chose. I works "with" the video vs being annoying and fighting what your eyes are seeing. Also you've not used any of those terrible transitions from scene to scene... Cube Spin, Page peel, Spin out or in, Venetian blinds.... these are "cute" transition effects but not for professional edits. Again great job, John.

There are exceptions to every rule...and sometimes for good reason. But these are some things I try to consider and watch out for....
1. Shots where the camera yaws a bit left or right in mid-flight. It's disruptive to the eye and viewing experience. The flight should be a perfect continuous straight line or arcing motion in flight allowing you to get absorbed in what you're viewing without distraction.
2. Camera tilt in mid shot. Though the lens isn't a fisheye it does have distortion. Tilting exaggerates this as the image warps when you tilt.
3. Dissolves vs hard cuts. Dissolves should be used sparingly. They're great if you're illustrating time has gone by or transitioning to a new location. But when cutting to a new shot or scene, hard clean cuts are the way to go giving your piece a solid professional cinematic feel.

Take my advise with a grain of salt. Being a creative process this is all very subjective. Rules are created for a reason but they are also meant to be broken. Bottom line..... from the shots to color grading to music....your video is better that 98% of all "aerials videos" on YouTube.