ARRIS CM2000 Brushless Gimbal for GoPro

I made a much more detailed tutorial on setting up the Arris for roll with the Futaba T8j (will work for other Futaba's and gimbals as well). but NOT the DJI gimbal, as I don't think it has manual roll capability!?

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9GhdegeAPe0[/youtube]
 
@Gizmo3000

@Gizmo3000 Extended mode (preferred): first of all, make calibration in simple mode. Then, rotate sensor board by 90 degree, to make every of 5 faces “looking up” (total 5 positions excluding “base”). Fix sensor in every position, press CALIBRATE_ACC and wait about 3 second. Repeat this step 5 times (the sequence of rotation is no matter). Remember, that calibration in simple mode will cancel results of extended calibration, so make it first.
Hint: Precise ACC calibration is very important to keep horizon stable in case of aggressive flight

When this say's rotate the sensor board by 90 degree's is that on the X or Y axis?
 
Gizmo3000 said:
xzoticskillz said:
Just seems like im running into more trouble with this gimbal. After I installed the 7th channel wire and the lever on my transmitter I tried powering the gimbal up and now it stabilizes to an off center angle. No matter where I position the gopro it always resorts to being skewed and crooked. This leads to manual tilt also being skewed and even oscillating if I tilt too quickly. Here's a video demonstrating the problem. Any help?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xx3HS9XRJf4
"

Seems a lot of people are experiencing some kind of roll when they attach the pitch wire. (just to be sure,. did you leave the roll wire disconnected, or did you connect it to the Naza? definitely leave it disconnected just in case).

What you need to do to try to remedy this is to run tje CALIB_ACC in the software..

connect the gimbal up to your windows computer (using your gopro usb cable or similar), install the setup software,. make sure you're running a current version of java,.and then run the ARRIS GUI app.
you click on Com8 (or one of the Com's on the left side of the screen, hit Read,. then the gimbal should come to life and show you all the settings.

====

To calibrate accelerometer, you don't need to connect main power. Just connect FTDI cable.
Simple mode: level the sensor board strictly horizontally (this is “base position”), fix it in this position by hands, and press CALIB_ACC button (or menu button). Signal LED will flash about 2-3 seconds. Don't move sensor board while calibrating.

(I havnen't tried the following , but it's in the SimpleBCG manual):
Extended mode (preferred): first of all, make calibration in simple mode. Then, rotate sensor board by 90 degree, to make every of 5 faces “looking up” (total 5 positions excluding “base”). Fix sensor in every position, press CALIBRATE_ACC and wait about 3 second. Repeat this step 5 times (the sequence of rotation is no matter). Remember, that calibration in simple mode will cancel results of extended calibration, so make it first.
Hint: Precise ACC calibration is very important to keep horizon stable in case of aggressive flight


Thank you Gizmo3000, you've been a huge help. I tried exactly this (recalibrating with the software and even reset to defaults to 0 everything out before resorting to factory settings). It still tilts crooked and now a new issue arose, it slowly rolls back to position after the tilt is finished (much like some users have reported during flying). I have no idea what happened here and all I want it to do is just have it functioning again like it did straight out of the box. This all happened after plugging in the tilt wire into F2 on the Naza, I'm wondering if this knocked some calibration out of wack, but that doesn't make sense.

Btw, this is what nancy told me when I brought this problem to her attention:

"You mean it will become vibration when the tilt downwards to 90 degrees. Please limit the travel to only 80 degrees. And the offset problem also be caused by the improper CG of the gopro."


This does not help whatsoever. I covered all these corners and yet the gimbal still has this problem, I'm curious now if this gimbal is defective or if I'm doing something wrong.
 
bayarea_phantom said:
@Gizmo3000

@Gizmo3000 Extended mode (preferred): first of all, make calibration in simple mode. Then, rotate sensor board by 90 degree, to make every of 5 faces “looking up” (total 5 positions excluding “base”). Fix sensor in every position, press CALIBRATE_ACC and wait about 3 second. Repeat this step 5 times (the sequence of rotation is no matter). Remember, that calibration in simple mode will cancel results of extended calibration, so make it first.
Hint: Precise ACC calibration is very important to keep horizon stable in case of aggressive flight

When this say's rotate the sensor board by 90 degree's is that on the X or Y axis?

Unsure, I've never tried the extended mode. I don't even know if it's possible to rotate the gimbal 90 degrees on the roll (at least, with the Arris.. These instructions were for a generic brushless gimbal, many of which can roll a full 90 degrees I think?
 
xzoticskillz said:
Thank you Gizmo3000, you've been a huge help. I tried exactly this (recalibrating with the software and even reset to defaults to 0 everything out before resorting to factory settings). It still tilts crooked and now a new issue arose, it slowly rolls back to position after the tilt is finished (much like some users have reported during flying). I have no idea what happened here and all I want it to do is just have it functioning again like it did straight out of the box. This all happened after plugging in the tilt wire into F2 on the Naza, I'm wondering if this knocked some calibration out of wack, but that doesn't make sense.

Btw, this is what nancy told me when I brought this problem to her attention:

"You mean it will become vibration when the tilt downwards to 90 degrees. Please limit the travel to only 80 degrees. And the offset problem also be caused by the improper CG of the gopro."

This does not help whatsoever. I covered all these corners and yet the gimbal still has this problem, I'm curious now if this gimbal is defective or if I'm doing something wrong.

I feel your frustration.
Hobby Wing doesn't seem to have a solid answer for everything, only offering possible fixes.

- the most important thing is making sure the gopro is sitting proper and everything is balanced. I make sure to run the velcro strap so that the gopro sits dead even on the tray. apparently there are oscillations that occur when tilted down a full 90 degrees, so people either set theirs to 85 or 80 (which is still a nice tilt), or increase power to the motors (which I've not messed with myself).

in the software are you INC mode checkboxes white or grey?
I recommend switching to Grey perhaps so it'll run in absolute/proportional mode. (sometimes things will drift if inc mode is turned on (white))
 
Yes the INC boxes are greyed out. I did everything according to the book, but no matter where I position the go pro or no matter how many times I calibrate it also defaults to the same offset base position. Then when I tilt gimbal using lever it tilts crooked and then slowly rolls to a more crooked position (same slow rolling occurs when I tilt back to base position). I didn't have the slow rolling problem before but now its happening all the time. The problem seems to be coming from the roll motor, it doesn't make sense why the roll motor is slightly rolling everytime I tilt even when started from a perfectly horizontal position.

Where do you do the extended calibration? There's no option for it in the Simple BCG software and I looked everywhere.
 
xzoticskillz said:
Yes the INC boxes are greyed out. I did everything according to the book, but no matter where I position the go pro or no matter how many times I calibrate it also defaults to the same offset base position. Then when I tilt gimbal using lever it tilts crooked and then slowly rolls to a more crooked position (same slow rolling occurs when I tilt back to base position). I didn't have the slow rolling problem before but now its happening all the time. The problem seems to be coming from the roll motor, it doesn't make sense why the roll motor is slightly rolling everytime I tilt even when started from a perfectly horizontal position.

Where do you do the extended calibration? There's no option for it in the Simple BCG software and I looked everywhere.

that's so strange. almost as if the roll is gutting some of the signal?
here's another one to possibly try,. set the roll settings to 0,0, with lpf/spd to 10 and see if that changes anything? (just a shot).

I've never done the extended calibration,. but sounds like you just move it to all 4 or 5 positions and hit Calib_Acc.
 
Has anyone purchased the GoPro Hero3 Carbon Fiber Frame for CM2000? I noticed today during a flight with winds around 12kts, there was vibration in the video. Video was 1080 30fps. When my Go Pro is mounted directly to the Phantom there is no vibration. Hobby-Wing suggests that it may be due to the Velcro strap. I'm going to try and elastic band but would like to know if the new frame provides more stability.
 
I got balanced adding FPV camera below GoPro. Have to use both cameras but better if FPV point where Gopro is filming ;)

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dasEgmNKc84[/youtube]

Share my Naza Gimbal gains and Arris Controller settings:

Naza%20Gimbal%20Settings-ArrisCM2000.jpg

Arris-Base-29-06-2013.jpg
 
The shaking on the yaw axis has been getting worse and worse during the past few days. I'm now pretty certain it's caused by the airflow from the propellers buffeting Hero 3, and by the gimbal's rubber balls getting softer from use. I'm trying to stiffen the rubber balls by inserting rods of thick rubber in them.

update: Rubber rods helped a little, but the image is still very shaky. I wonder if it's possible -- or wise -- to build some kind of a cover to protect Hero 3 from the airflow.
 
Hi. Maybe if we move the gimbal back it might be better.
I stiffened up my balls :) too but its still there in forward flight.
 
pteittinen said:
The shaking on the yaw axis has been getting worse and worse during the past few days. I'm now pretty certain it's caused by the airflow from the propellers buffeting Hero 3, and by the gimbal's rubber balls getting softer from use. I'm trying to stiffen the rubber balls by inserting rods of thick rubber in them.

update: Rubber rods helped a little, but the image is still very shaky. I wonder if it's possible -- or wise -- to build some kind of a cover to protect Hero 3 from the airflow.


After many tests, I found out that this is exactly the reason why you get shaky video in forward flight. The props are channeling the wind directly at the gimbal causing it to shake. I'm considering moving my whole gimbal back further. The problem is gone when reversing direction of the phantom and I get smooth footage always going in reverse. I'm pretty sure its because the gimbal is too far forward and is simply is a design flaw. The only problem is that I may have to create new drill holes to screw the base plate to my phantom body. Anybody else try this yet?
 
Anyone have any clue where to get the software/drivers other then the disk.. I have tried 2 different computers and i cant get the drivers to install. I keep getting errors.. Both computers do the same thing.. Failed to install

If anyone can help please email me at [email protected]
 
After many tests, I found out that this is exactly the reason why you get shaky video in forward flight. The props are channeling the wind directly at the gimbal causing it to shake. I'm considering moving my whole gimbal back further. The problem is gone when reversing direction of the phantom and I get smooth footage always going in reverse. I'm pretty sure its because the gimbal is too far forward and is simply is a design flaw. The only problem is that I may have to create new drill holes to screw the base plate to my phantom body. Anybody else try this yet?[/quote]

I just came back from a flight after moving my gimbal back some.
Vibration still there so that's not it.
Flying slow its okay but gets some speed and it pretty bad.
Next I have a NoMo Jello frame that I will try.
 
I'm a beginner within gimbals.
I've had my Phantom for about 6 weeks and been flying quite a lot.
I'm taking small steps towards doing some FPV flying at some point.
To begin with I've been doing a lot of reading on the different Gimbals.
As I see it the Arris 2000 fits my wallet and expectations the best.
But one question: I'm really not born with engineer skills. Will it be possible for me to install and use the Gimbal?
Thanks a lot...
 
Flykam said:
After many tests, I found out that this is exactly the reason why you get shaky video in forward flight. The props are channeling the wind directly at the gimbal causing it to shake. I'm considering moving my whole gimbal back further. The problem is gone when reversing direction of the phantom and I get smooth footage always going in reverse. I'm pretty sure its because the gimbal is too far forward and is simply is a design flaw. The only problem is that I may have to create new drill holes to screw the base plate to my phantom body. Anybody else try this yet?

I just came back from a flight after moving my gimbal back some.
Vibration still there so that's not it.
Flying slow its okay but gets some speed and it pretty bad.
Next I have a NoMo Jello frame that I will try.[/quote]

Do you have anything in place between gimbal base and phantom body? I have a good size piece of kyosho gel in place to limit high frequency vibrations and every time I fly fairly quick in forward flight I still get the same type of vibrations that make it almost unusable for presentable footage. However when I fly in reverse those same vibrations are almost completely gone. How would you explain this?

Also, what are your reasons in going for the NoMO jello frame? Wouldn't that be serving the same purpose as the rubber dampeners? Let me know your results!
 
dguldager said:
I'm a beginner within gimbals.
I've had my Phantom for about 6 weeks and been flying quite a lot.
I'm taking small steps towards doing some FPV flying at some point.
To begin with I've been doing a lot of reading on the different Gimbals.
As I see it the Arris 2000 fits my wallet and expectations the best.
But one question: I'm really not born with engineer skills. Will it be possible for me to install and use the Gimbal?
Thanks a lot...

The Arris isn't too tough at all to install (much easier than even the DJI gimbal), but does require some soldering skills (to connect a JST to an Aux power cord), and some skills installing software onto a PC.
but at less than half the price of the DJI its a good value.

also to keep an eye out for is the Tarot gimbal, also being sold by hobby wing, for even less money
But those just started shipping so you'd have to wait to hear what people think of that one.
 
xzoticskillz said:
I just came back from a flight after moving my gimbal back some.
How did you do that? You obviously had to drill some new holes into Phantom chassis, but did you add any strengthening plates or such?

Vibration still there so that's not it. Flying slow its okay but gets some speed and it pretty bad.
**** :/

Next I have a NoMo Jello frame that I will try.
Looking forward to the results!

Do you have anything in place between gimbal base and phantom body?
I put a quarter-inch thick slab of tough rubber, actually made for isolation, between base and body. I still have enough of the material to cut it into square pieces and use those to replace CM2000's dampening balls.

Although.... stiffening the gimbal won't help if the shaking happens only in the lower part of the gimbal, at the tray where Hero3 is installed.

I also gave some additional thought to installing some sort of a cover above the gimbal, to divert the airflow away from the gimbal. Unfortunately that would very likely cause more problems, as the airflow hitting the cover would push the copter downwards. What do you guys think?
 

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