Yea i just saw thanks. Have u ordered the mmcx cables as well secondly he has shown to connector options immersion and boscam whats the differenceitchybeard said:
Antenna mods rc and wifi extender
- Thread starter saao
- Start date
saao said:
No, I haven't ordered his cables. I'm getting my cables custom-made by someone else.
Secondly, if you look carefully at the page it says that ImmersionRC are SMA and Boscam are RP-SMA. I'm going to fit SMA pigtails on my bird, because the other antennas that I want to use are SMA.
So, I've ordered my Horizon skew-planars as LHCP (in gold) with straight SMA connectors. That will suit the helical cannons on my transmitter nicely
Ohh nice seems like ur targeting the leader board bro.itchybeard said:saao said:
No, I haven't ordered his cables. I'm getting my cables custom-made by someone else.
Secondly, if you look carefully at the page it says that ImmersionRC are SMA and Boscam are RP-SMA. I'm going to fit SMA pigtails on my bird, because the other antennas that I want to use are SMA.
So, I've ordered my Horizon skew-planars as LHCP (in gold) with straight SMA connectors. That will suit the helical cannons on my transmitter nicely
So if i order a pair set 2.4 wouldn't i need the mmcx cable i mean the antennas will be rpsma and the mmcx already is an rpsma ryte?
Both the skew planars will go on the bird and match to my helical canon hopefully it shall gve me a good range
saao said:
You will need to mount the 2.4 skew-planars outside the bird and you will need a cable to do it. The existing stock DJI 2.4 antennas are mounted inside the bird in the battery compartment and the antenna end of the pigtail is soldered (no rp-sma connector there).
itchybeard said:
exactly i didn't no that they were soldered to i thought the 5.8 ones were and these ones aren't like the repeater easy to pull the ufo out. so i should order the mmcx cable to directly attach it to the board and then connect the rpsma side to the skew planer?
saao said:
The mmcx connectors are easy to pull out of the wi-fi module in the bird, but the antennas at the other end are soldered to the wires. You will need to unplug and remove these antennas and then fit two mmcx to (sma or rp-sma, whichever you choose) cables that are long enough to route through the bird and reach the external skew-planar antennas, and remember that the length of the cables must also be 'tuned' to the 2.4 Ghz wavelength as well.
itchybeard said:
exactly bro if u go to the horizon websit the have made those mcx connector for 2.4 ghz and just plug it to the board and easily connect it to the skew planer
saao said:
Yeah, I know, but as I have already told you. I'm getting my cables custom made by someone else. If I was looking for "easy" I would have left the bird as standard.
itchybeard said:
true that bro…good luck by the way when u say specially getting cables who is this secret vendor? lol
saao said:
I'm not keeping it a secret, Saao. I'm getting all my cables made by these people to my own spec, (including all the ones for my RC controller. I'm going to replace them with better ones). and they have all the equipment to 'tune' them spot-on.
http://www.cablelynx.co.uk/prod_rf.html
thanks bro i am just waiting for will to reply so that i can place the order i don't no where he is hasn't replied for the last 2 days i spoke to him a couple of times on the phone lost his numberitchybeard said:
itchybeard said:
Thats great Itchybeard, Ill be installing the pci on the left connector then!
Thanks a lot!,
Luis
Anyone had good experiences with TP-link omni directional antennas? I get the same range as with my stock wifi range extender but the connection is more solid. I was expecting an increase of range :x I guess I will order some helical antennas as everyone keeps saying they are the best!
Laspillaga said:
Hi Luis
The stock range extender is already fitted with LHCP helical antennas and so is the P2V+. If you fit an omnidirectional antenna to the range extender then it is a mismatch. It would be better to use an LHCP helical antenna with a higher gain like the top-of-the-line one sold by Horizon FPV (12dBi gain) or FPVLR's dome (9dBi gain).
There is much misinformation out there on the stock antenna configuration.
The following information applies to the P2V+. I cannot speak for the other Phantom flavors; I don't own any. I suspect they may be the same.
The reality:
1) The antennas on the bird are simple coaxial LINEAR polarized sleeve dipoles (polarized vertically, because they are mounted that way.. They are NOT either flavor of C.P. (Circular Polarization)
This is a sleeve dipole:
2) I could not find any "official" info whatsoever on the RE700 antennas, so I dissected one.
These are twin L.H.C.P. "Perturbed Patch" antennas. I cannot tell if they are arrayed, or in diversity mode. I suspect diversity, as they have unequal feed cable lengths. The "shadow" of the radiating patch can be seen in the photo (it is between 2 layers of G-10). The upper-left and lower-right corners of the square have been trimmed (or "perturbed"), resulting in L.H.C.P. Results of trimming corners can be seen in the accompanying illustration. A patch antenna off this type typically results in 7-8 dBi of gain, depending on the ground plane.
3) A theoretically perfect Isotropic radiator would radiate equally in all directions, resulting in a spherical radiation pattern. This does not exist; however it is used as a baseline, much like 1G is for acceleration. When you "squeeze the balloon", you take energy away from some of the sphere, and project it in another direction. The resulting bulge has more gain in that bulge than an isotropic radiator, thus the gain numbers are indicated in dBi, or decibels above isotropic. The more you "squeeze the balloon", the more energy is redirected, and the higher the gain becomes. However, the "beamwidth" of the antenna becomes narrower and narrower as the gain increases. It becomes more and more "directional", Thus a high gain antenna will have very poor performance on the back side. Think of a candle flame as an isotropic radiator, and a flashlight as a high gain antenna. The candle illuminates equally in all directions very close by, while the flashlight illuminates to a great distance ahead, but virtually none to the sides and rear.
A linearly polarized antenna will radiate however it is oriented. Horizontal, or vertical, but not both. If the receive antenna is rotated 90° from the plane of the transmit antenna or "cross polarized", the gain theoretically drops to zero, although in the real world there is come cross-pol component along with reflection components. This is why linearly polarized transmit and receive antennas are never used in telemetry for aircraft. If the transmit and receive antennas are both vertical, and the aircraft rolls 90 degrees, The reception theoretically goes away altogether.
If we transmit with a circularly-polarized antenna, there are now equal vertical and horizontal components. Thus, if the aircraft with the vertical antenna rolls 90°, the gain will be the same.
I will not get into the intricacies of Left Hand versus Right Hand C.P. ,but basically they both project a "corkscrewing" signal vector out from the antenna, rotating in opposite directions.
The advantages of using C.P. on both the transmit and receive end is that any reflections are sent back corkscrewing in the opposite direction, which cannot be received by that antenna. This is why C.P antennas of opposite pols will not work together. You can't mate a left handed screw with a right handed nut.
Aircraft manufacturers, dji included, are bound by size and weight restrictions. This is not as important on the ground, which is why they sometimes go with C.P. on the ground, and L.P. on the aircraft.
You can receive a C.P. signal with an L.P. antenna, but best results will always be achieved when both Transmit and Receive antennas are C.P.
The following information applies to the P2V+. I cannot speak for the other Phantom flavors; I don't own any. I suspect they may be the same.
The reality:
1) The antennas on the bird are simple coaxial LINEAR polarized sleeve dipoles (polarized vertically, because they are mounted that way.. They are NOT either flavor of C.P. (Circular Polarization)
This is a sleeve dipole:
2) I could not find any "official" info whatsoever on the RE700 antennas, so I dissected one.
These are twin L.H.C.P. "Perturbed Patch" antennas. I cannot tell if they are arrayed, or in diversity mode. I suspect diversity, as they have unequal feed cable lengths. The "shadow" of the radiating patch can be seen in the photo (it is between 2 layers of G-10). The upper-left and lower-right corners of the square have been trimmed (or "perturbed"), resulting in L.H.C.P. Results of trimming corners can be seen in the accompanying illustration. A patch antenna off this type typically results in 7-8 dBi of gain, depending on the ground plane.
3) A theoretically perfect Isotropic radiator would radiate equally in all directions, resulting in a spherical radiation pattern. This does not exist; however it is used as a baseline, much like 1G is for acceleration. When you "squeeze the balloon", you take energy away from some of the sphere, and project it in another direction. The resulting bulge has more gain in that bulge than an isotropic radiator, thus the gain numbers are indicated in dBi, or decibels above isotropic. The more you "squeeze the balloon", the more energy is redirected, and the higher the gain becomes. However, the "beamwidth" of the antenna becomes narrower and narrower as the gain increases. It becomes more and more "directional", Thus a high gain antenna will have very poor performance on the back side. Think of a candle flame as an isotropic radiator, and a flashlight as a high gain antenna. The candle illuminates equally in all directions very close by, while the flashlight illuminates to a great distance ahead, but virtually none to the sides and rear.
A linearly polarized antenna will radiate however it is oriented. Horizontal, or vertical, but not both. If the receive antenna is rotated 90° from the plane of the transmit antenna or "cross polarized", the gain theoretically drops to zero, although in the real world there is come cross-pol component along with reflection components. This is why linearly polarized transmit and receive antennas are never used in telemetry for aircraft. If the transmit and receive antennas are both vertical, and the aircraft rolls 90 degrees, The reception theoretically goes away altogether.
If we transmit with a circularly-polarized antenna, there are now equal vertical and horizontal components. Thus, if the aircraft with the vertical antenna rolls 90°, the gain will be the same.
I will not get into the intricacies of Left Hand versus Right Hand C.P. ,but basically they both project a "corkscrewing" signal vector out from the antenna, rotating in opposite directions.
The advantages of using C.P. on both the transmit and receive end is that any reflections are sent back corkscrewing in the opposite direction, which cannot be received by that antenna. This is why C.P antennas of opposite pols will not work together. You can't mate a left handed screw with a right handed nut.
Aircraft manufacturers, dji included, are bound by size and weight restrictions. This is not as important on the ground, which is why they sometimes go with C.P. on the ground, and L.P. on the aircraft.
You can receive a C.P. signal with an L.P. antenna, but best results will always be achieved when both Transmit and Receive antennas are C.P.
Attachments
I am a fairly new user of the phantom 2 vision+. So far it has worked perfect. I have quit a number of flights on it with no problems
I needed to extend the range because I use it in my business and (off the job for fun) to take pictures of job sites and land areas so I had acesdeals (dji dealer) install a range extender. The extender was suppose to be able to take it out 5000ft. My experience so far has seen about ~3200ft. I have a few questions. I loose wifi sometimes before I loose the control of the quad other times it will go to the return home mode
1). You talk about a Booster App. What are talking about specifically. I am using an iPad for my display.
2). Should the antenna on the transmitter be facing 90degs to the quad or pointed straight at it
3) How accurately must I keep the new TP antenna pointed at the quad
I would like a range of at least 5000. Also sometimes I am in areas where their are obstructions such as trees, buildings, power lines etc. So with that said am I asking to much of the equipment?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
I needed to extend the range because I use it in my business and (off the job for fun) to take pictures of job sites and land areas so I had acesdeals (dji dealer) install a range extender. The extender was suppose to be able to take it out 5000ft. My experience so far has seen about ~3200ft. I have a few questions. I loose wifi sometimes before I loose the control of the quad other times it will go to the return home mode
1). You talk about a Booster App. What are talking about specifically. I am using an iPad for my display.
2). Should the antenna on the transmitter be facing 90degs to the quad or pointed straight at it
3) How accurately must I keep the new TP antenna pointed at the quad
I would like a range of at least 5000. Also sometimes I am in areas where their are obstructions such as trees, buildings, power lines etc. So with that said am I asking to much of the equipment?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
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