Alfa 2.4HGz 7dBi RP-SMA Panel = AWESOME!

Need some help. Just finished installing the new cables and antenna panels. RC shows Green connected light to the Bird. GO app shows disconnected. Both scroll wheels are functioning. I followed the video to a T minus one thing. The com cable on the back of the RC didn't cooperate well with my fat fingers and I may have messed it up. The little black locking piece broke off and I nicked the ribbon a bit(see photos?The ribbon cable went back in no problem. My question is could this be the source of my disconnected message in the GO app? Thanks for the help!
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GB71 said:
Need some help. Just finished installing the new cables and antenna panels. RC shows Green connected light to the Bird. GO app shows disconnected. Both scroll wheels are functioning. I followed the video to a T minus one thing. The com cable on the back of the RC didn't cooperate well with my fat fingers and I may have messed it up. The little black locking piece broke off and I nicked the ribbon a bit(see photos?The ribbon cable went back in no problem. My question is could this be the source of my disconnected message in the GO app? Thanks for the help!
48ca63919e2539e41cb599a0462a00ac_thumb.jpg



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First.. really sorry this happened. I can't expand the picture but yes, I'm pretty sure that cable (since it's the com cable) is what's causing the issue. Even without the nick, with the locking piece broken off, there is no way to keep that cable in place. If it was just the cable, you might be able to get one (not sure if DJI small parts order would honor that?).. but with the lock broken, I think you're in the market for a new (used) controller on EBay.. Try for a 300A if you can get it.. I really don't think there is any other away around it.. A real "maybe" would be to see if you can get the cable and perhaps tack it down somehow.. thin piece of Gorilla tape? Don't know if you can get that cable though..
 
Well the com cable itself isn't nicked or harmed. It's the connection on the board on the RC. I'm not sure what this board is or part number. I would think I could buy this board that would then include the black locking bar that I broke. I dunno though.
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GB71 said:
Well the com cable itself isn't nicked or harmed. It's the connection on the board on the RC. I'm not sure what this board is or part number. I would think I could buy this board that would then include the black locking bar that I broke. I dunno though.
a4d3a57f4c7a2ef5ef988883416cf9a2_thumb.jpg
0dc7e2c3b96531964d13e493660e82c2_thumb.jpg



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So your assessment is correct that it is the output board. I thought you were talking about the connection at the other end. You can get an HDMI output board to replace it, or if someone has upgraded their controller and still has the original board they might sell to you?? Put a "Want to buy" on the classified or call DJI and ask for a "small part replacement" for the original.. You can tell them you were installing the HDMI one and damaged the original and you'd like to have one again as a spare. They might be able to sell you one cheaper than the HDMI one..
 
GB71 said:
Well the com cable itself isn't nicked or harmed. It's the connection on the board on the RC. I'm not sure what this board is or part number. I would think I could buy this board that would then include the black locking bar that I broke. I dunno though.
a4d3a57f4c7a2ef5ef988883416cf9a2_thumb.jpg
0dc7e2c3b96531964d13e493660e82c2_thumb.jpg



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Click to expand...
yes.
 
GB71 said:
Thanks guys. Can't believe something so small will keep me on the ground. Wait, yes I can lol.


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That little black bar that broke off, sometimes it can still be used, but you have to fit it in the little slots very precisely. It puts pressure on the ribbon cable so it can make a firm connection with the contacts on the board (white thing the ribbon cable plugs into).
You can also insert the ribbon cable into the slot and use something about the same thickness as the cable and slid it on top of the ribbon cable to put downward pressure on the cable, kind of a wedge. Then use a piece of scotch tape to hold it all in place.
 
HWCM said:
That little black bar that broke off, sometimes it can still be used, but you have to fit it in the little slots very precisely. It puts pressure on the ribbon cable so it can make a firm connection with the contacts on the board (white thing the ribbon cable plugs into).
You can also insert the ribbon cable into the slot and use something about the same thickness as the cable and slid it on top of the ribbon cable to put downward pressure on the cable, kind of a wedge. Then use a piece of scotch tape to hold it all in place.
Click to expand...
It is really risky to use the remote controller this way. It can work for some seconds, minutes, ... but sooner or later it will fail. Hope it will not be during a flight where you don't see your bird because you will have no info on your tablet at all (video and telemetry).
I broke i another way the connector but on the main board, so I had to order a new one. At least with 2 P3 you can continue to fly and I started to repair by replacing the connector. Or it will finish for parts, let's see. As it is a version A and I bought a version C, would be nice to repair it in a reliable way.
 
Dronason said:
It is really risky to use the remote controller this way. It can work for some seconds, minutes, ... but sooner or later it will fail. Hope it will not be during a flight where you don't see your bird because you will have no info on your tablet at all (video and telemetry).
I broke i another way the connector but on the main board, so I had to order a new one. At least with 2 P3 you can continue to fly and I started to repair by replacing the connector. Or it will finish for parts, let's see. As it is a version A and I bought a version C, would be nice to repair it in a reliable way.
Click to expand...

Have to agree 150% especially since we now know it is a readily replaceable (HDMI module) or perhaps DJI can let u purchase a replacement non- HDMI version.
 
Dumb question here. With these new antenna set ups ie argtek, iTelite etc. Does this only help strengthen the signal from RC to Bird for control but not transmission signal?


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One antenna is for sending control, the other for receiving video. It definitely helps with both, but more so the transmission of control.
Someone is going to chime in and say both antenna are for both control and video transmission and receiving, but logic says otherwise.
That and nobody has yet to post a meter reading from both antennas. I could be wrong, but I have not seen any hard facts stating otherwise.
I get three plus miles using these panel antennas.


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I thought what you said. 1 for control 1 for video. 2.5 and 5 respectively. I only ask because I got out about 1.2 miles and video began going in and out while RC stayed rock solid at full bars. Before anyone jumps this I'll say yes I'm aware that location, competing signals etc greatly effects all these variables [emoji3]


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HWCM said:
One antenna is for sending control, the other for receiving video. It definitely helps with both, but more so the transmission of control.
Someone is going to chime in and say both antenna are for both control and video transmission and receiving, but logic says otherwise.
That and nobody has yet to post a meter reading from both antennas. I could be wrong, but I have not seen any hard facts stating otherwise.
I get three plus miles using these panel antennas.


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Click to expand...
Both are 2.4 GHz on P3P and P3A.
One is to send signals from remote control and receive telemetry data. You have no control on it.
The second is to receive the video from the P3. On this one, you can select channel as auto or custom.
 
Dronason said:
Both are 2.4 GHz on P3P and P3A.
One is to send signals from remote control and receive telemetry data. You have no control on it.
The second is to receive the video from the P3. On this one, you can select channel as auto or custom.
Click to expand...
Yes. exactly.
 

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