5.8 vs 2.4 distance

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I've always preferred the two piece so I can get a V split a bit. Not super wide, but some separation
Antennas should not have a V, that's not optimal. They should always be parallel, and straight up vertical for most efficiency. I like the clamshell folding windsurfer because it holds the antennas parallel, while being easy to store in my backpack.
 
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No, that's the best you can get, 5870mah battery from DJI for a stock setup. That will get you about 23min flight times, and with that time, in calm conditions you can fly about 10 miles, so 4 to 5mi range for RC connection is a good match for the P4P for battery power duration. If you start going farther than 5mi you'll be risking craft retrieval success. Tips for this kind of distance travel include:
1. Always have LOS orientation to your craft. Sounds fundamental but many pilots forget.
2. 5.8Ghz on auto channel, believe it or not.
3. Navigating from above your craft seems to really help to fly lower to the ground, IE launching from top of a hill or building and flying below the launch point, always LOS.
4. The more rural you are the better, but 5.8Ghz seems to do well in town.
5. Always watch the radar screen to properly point the windsurfer (or other directional antenna) at the craft. Keep the craft triangle icon at the top of the radar circle.
6. Always keep an eye on the RC control signal meter, as well as the HD signal meter. This works as a reminder to point the windsurfer, and when to turn around.
7. Since we are flying up to 4-5 miles away, and still prefer to land at our Home Point, I would also add to keep a close eye on your elapsed flight time, and your displayed remaining flight time, and the remaining battery percentage.

At 30mph, without headwind, you can fly a mile every two minutes. Allow 2.5 minutes per mile, once within 3 miles. Avoid elevation changes, as they waste precious battery juice. You must turn around before 55% remaining, and preferably 60-65%, to avoid fighting the Autoland at 10% with any distance horizontally between you and the aircraft.

Lastly, note that the remaining flight time algorithm was changed between FW 1.02 and 1.03 --- on 1.03 and later, 0 minutes remaining is no longer 10% remaining battery! 0 minutes flight time left is now 0% remaining battery, and the aircraft started Autolanding at 10% remaining battery! If on 1.03 and later, you must subtract an additional 3 minutes from the displayed remaining flight time, as Autoland will kick in at 3 minutes remaining! Very foolish change by DJI, who usually errors on the side of safety over accuracy!
 
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I haven't ever had a problem with my P3 and 2.4 in all kinds of different areas. I'm not particularly interested in needing 5.8 now, so I may go with a p4a.
The P4P also has Rear and Side obstacle avoidance, which is a dream while flying in tight spots using tripod mode. I'm addicted to this mode, as it makes for some incredible footage
 
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Using Auto 5.8Ghz with a windsurfer on the P4P will give you control and FPV beyond the distance at which you can make it back on one battery. You'll first need a battery mod to fly further than the stock 5 miles which has already been achieved with just a windsurfer, unless you like one way missions!:cool:
I believe you. I have a pair of windsurfers I bought for my P4, but ever since I got my P4P I haven't used them, 5.8ghz on Auto, I can go as far as I'm brave enough to go, which isn't really far haha. Just over 2 miles is my max distance before I get nervous and turn back, but at that time I still have full bars on signal and Hd.
 
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They are claiming that the directional antenna is affected less by surrounding 2.4 and 5.8 radiation from other sources and that it gives better video reception to the RC. I suspect it will sell well as have most Itelite antennae for DJI products. I have a Titan Conquer RE so I wont be buying this product but some people like to aftermarket their drones Gadget guy.
 
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They are claiming that the directional antenna is affected less by surrounding 2.4 and 5.8 radiation from other sources and that it gives better video reception to the RC. I suspect it will sell well as have most Itelite antennae for DJI products. I have a Titan Conquer RE so I wont be buying this product but some people like to aftermarket their drones Gadget guy.
You are preaching to the choir, when it comes to aftermarketing drones. All my P3P's and P4’s had battery mods and range mods. However, since the video reception on the P4P is still rock solid to at least 5 miles in Auto 5.8Ghz, as is the control signal, without a concurrent battery mod to support a longer distance away, one is just asking for trouble. I already need a battery mod just to support the existing range capabilities in Auto 5.8GHz! :cool:
 
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You are preaching to the choir, when it comes to aftermarketing drones. All my P3P's and P4’s had battery mods and range mods. However, since the video reception on the P4P is still rock solid to at least 5 miles in Auto 5.8Ghz, as is the control signal, without a concurrent battery mod to support a longer distance away, one is just asking for trouble. I already need a battery mod just to support the existing range capabilities in Auto 5.8GHz! :cool:
So I take it Auto 5.8 is your preference over anything in 2.4?
 
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So I take it Auto 5.8 is your preference over anything in 2.4?
Absolutely, unless you are under CE, or travel to a CE area (rather than in an FCC area) where their respective signal strengths are flipped, and both are clipped! Modding the 2.4Ghz signal in the U.S. will only get you the same range as the native Auto 5.8Ghz range, which already exceeds the battery capacity. Spend your money on a battery mod, instead, to support the full range of the Auto 5.8Ghz band.:cool:
 
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I did several runs right before that with the older p4 batteries. The last run with the older battery I got over 27,000ft. Conditions were just right so I used my p4p battery and went for it. I landed at home point with one percent. That was my last long distance run.
butt clenching, huh?
 
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Absolutely, unless you are under CE, or travel to a CE area (rather than in an FCC area) where their respective signal strengths are flipped, and both are clipped! :cool:
Hey GadgetGuy,
what do you mean with "flipped"?
I live in CE area and just installed the Raptor SR. It's great at 2.4 but 5.8 is no good. After half a mile signal is bad.
Also: When I switch to 5.8 I get for an instance the long red lines above each channel. Afterwards no more signal is showing.

Thanks!
 
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Hey GadgetGuy,
what do you mean with "flipped"?
I live in CE area and just installed the Raptor SR. It's great at 2.4 but 5.8 is no good. After half a mile signal is bad.
Also: When I switch to 5.8 I get for an instance the long red lines above each channel. Afterwards no more signal is showing.

Thanks!
Exactly what you are experiencing in terms of range. The P4P power output for 5.8Ghz under CE is lower than 2.4Ghz, so amplifying the 2.4Ghz band is the way to go, and don't use 5.8Ghz. Here, under FCC, the 5.8Ghz is so good that it needs no amplification.
 
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You are preaching to the choir, when it comes to aftermarketing drones. All my P3P's and P4’s had battery mods and range mods. However, since the video reception on the P4P is still rock solid to at least 5 miles in Auto 5.8Ghz, as is the control signal, without a concurrent battery mod to support a longer distance away, one is just asking for trouble. I already need a battery mod just to support the existing range capabilities in Auto 5.8GHz! :cool:
What is a good recommended battery mod for the P4P AC?
 
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When you’re on Auto will it change from 2.4 to 5.8 or is the auto only within one frequency band or the other?

#115 Dan Lee, Today at 11:02 AM

I'm fairly certain changes made between 2.4 and 5.8 Ghz need to be done manually, while channel selection is randomly chosen based on signal quality when in Auto mode, but you may want to check the manual to be absolutely certain. : )
 
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When you’re on Auto will it change from 2.4 to 5.8 or is the auto only within one frequency band or the other?

#115 Dan Lee, Today at 11:02 AM

I'm fairly certain changes made between 2.4 and 5.8 Ghz need to be done manually, while channel selection is randomly chosen based on signal quality when in Auto mode, but you may want to check the manual to be absolutely certain. : )
Correct. You must manually select which band, as Auto is only within a given band.
 
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