5.8 vs 2.4 distance

Your confusing protocol with propagation.
Radio waves don't care about packets or protocol.
Nor do receivers.

My 802.11n reference was meant to be with regards to MIMO not protocol. Fair enough.
 
Gotcha. I wasn't sure why you brought up the 802.11n reference until now. Agree about spectral density.
 
Your confusing protocol with propagation.
Radio waves don't care about packets or protocol.
Nor do receivers.

My 802.11n reference was meant to be with regards to MIMO not protocol. Fair enough.

But they care about me right? RIGHT? Or are you telling me physics just exists whether I accept it or not? ;-)
 
I haven't ever had a problem with my P3 and 2.4 in all kinds of different areas. I'm not particularly interested in needing 5.8 now, so I may go with a p4a.
It also loses rear and side obstacle avoidance, but as an experienced flyer, you shouldn't need either. The P4 stock 2.4Ghz range was awful (worse than the P3), as is the P4P stock 2.4Ghz range. For the small difference in price, get the P4P with the Auto 5.8Ghz capability. You'll thank me later. :cool:
 
  • Like
Reactions: RonHarper
It also loses rear and side obstacle avoidance, but as an experienced flyer, you shouldn't need either. The P4 stock 2.4Ghz range was awful (worse than the P3), as is the P4P stock 2.4Ghz range. For the small difference in price, get the P4P with the Auto 5.8Ghz capability. You'll thank me later. :cool:

Know you're replying to someone else... but wanted to chime in that I totally agree.

Biggest thing is if and when you do need to fly in a WiFi congested area... having that 5.8 GHz option in your back pocket can make or break the day.
 
The 5.8Ghz alone is worth the $150. I feel so bad for all the victims who think they are "saving" money by purchasing the P4A. It's kind of like those suckers who wasted money on the P34K when it first came out.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Capo
what is the recommended BEST external antenna commercially available for the P4P+ controller to manage 5.8G?
 
Adding a Windsurfer parabolic reflector helps a lot, and they are inexpensive. This not only shields from rogue signals behind you, it also sends more concentrated signal to your craft in a directional method. Before you get elaborate replacing antennas you should try a Windsurfer using 5.8 Ghz on auto channel. You can get more than 4 miles with a LOS connection.
 
what is the recommended BEST external antenna commercially available for the P4P+ controller to manage 5.8G?

"Best" is a relative term.

I'd agree with others, and say, start with a windsurfer, as it's cheap and doesn't require re-wiring the controller.

If you need higher gain (directionally of course comes at the loss of omnidirectionality), I'd say FPVLR's UWB antennas are probably the best, but the ceramic style (the flat panels you see) will also get the job done, as long as they are dual band.

Just remember, those higher gain antennas require constantly aiming and adjusting to keep the drone in the path of the signal... It sounds easy, but it takes some practice to do well.

As the stock range is generally so good, there's really not the same market for antenna mods as with the P3P/P4, hence fewer options out there.
 
"Best" is a relative term.

I'd agree with others, and say, start with a windsurfer, as it's cheap and doesn't require re-wiring the controller.

If you need higher gain (directionally of course comes at the loss of omnidirectionality), I'd say FPVLR's UWB antennas are probably the best, but the ceramic style (the flat panels you see) will also get the job done, as long as they are dual band.

Just remember, those higher gain antennas require constantly aiming and adjusting to keep the drone in the path of the signal... It sounds easy, but it takes some practice to do well.

As the stock range is generally so good, there's really not the same market for antenna mods as with the P3P/P4, hence fewer options out there.
I just ordered the windsurfer from Amazon ... prime price was $16.95 ... will be here in 2 days ... THX
 
Using Auto 5.8Ghz with a windsurfer on the P4P will give you control and FPV beyond the distance at which you can make it back on one battery. You'll first need a battery mod to fly further than the stock 5 miles which has already been achieved with just a windsurfer, unless you like one way missions!:cool:
 
Using Auto 5.8Ghz with a windsurfer on the P4P will give you control and FPV beyond the distance at which you can make it back on one battery. You'll first need a battery mod to fly further than the stock 5 miles which has already been achieved with just a windsurfer, unless you like one way missions!:cool:
I am using the enhanced intelligent batteries ($169) each from DJI now ... are there better ones than that?
 
I am using the enhanced intelligent batteries ($169) each from DJI now ... are there better ones than that?
By battery mod, I meant adding additional external batteries, like were needed with the P4 and P3P to get their advertised flight times. You have to have the aircraft modified to accept the externals, electrically and physically, which costs $250 from someone like Paul at FPVCustoms.com. It will also void your P4P warranty. Decent external batteries and the needed charger will set you back another $300. The 4 mile completely stock range is planty without needing any externals. Externals and transmitter mods are a pain you will happily learn to live without! The P4P has made them both completely unnecessary in a very light-weight package!
 
  • Like
Reactions: setandforget
I am using the enhanced intelligent batteries ($169) each from DJI now ... are there better ones than that?
No, that's the best you can get, 5870mah battery from DJI for a stock setup. That will get you about 23min flight times, and with that time, in calm conditions you can fly about 10 miles, so 4 to 5mi range for RC connection is a good match for the P4P for battery power duration. If you start going farther than 5mi you'll be risking craft retrieval success. Tips for this kind of distance travel include:
1. Always have LOS orientation to your craft. Sounds fundamental but many pilots forget.
2. 5.8Ghz on auto channel, believe it or not.
3. Navigating from above your craft seems to really help to fly lower to the ground, IE launching from top of a hill or building and flying below the launch point, always LOS.
4. The more rural you are the better, but 5.8Ghz seems to do well in town.
5. Always watch the radar screen to properly point the windsurfer (or other directional antenna) at the craft. Keep the craft triangle icon at the top of the radar circle.
6. Always keep an eye on the RC control signal meter, as well as the HD signal meter. This works as a reminder to point the windsurfer, and when to turn around.
 
No, that's the best you can get, 5870mah battery from DJI for a stock setup. That will get you about 23min flight times, and with that time, in calm conditions you can fly about 10 miles, so 4 to 5mi range for RC connection is a good match for the P4P for battery power duration. If you start going farther than 5mi you'll be risking craft retrieval success. Tips for this kind of distance travel include:
1. Always have LOS orientation to your craft. Sounds fundamental but many pilots forget.
2. 5.8Ghz on auto channel, believe it or not.
3. Navigating from above your craft seems to really help to fly lower to the ground, IE launching from top of a hill or building and flying below the launch point, always LOS.
4. The more rural you are the better, but 5.8Ghz seems to do well in town.
5. Always watch the radar screen to properly point the windsurfer (or other directional antenna) at the craft. Keep the craft triangle icon at the top of the radar circle.
6. Always keep an eye on the RC control signal meter, as well as the HD signal meter. This works as a reminder to point the windsurfer, and when to turn around.

9 out of 10 people I've watched fly DJI drones have the antennas orientated in the wrong direction. They should be straight up and down and parallel to each other. I'm able to fly further than the battery allows.
 
9 out of 10 people I've watched fly DJI drones have the antennas orientated in the wrong direction. They should be straight up and down and parallel to each other. I'm able to fly further than the battery allows.
Good point! I forgot because my clamshell folding windsurfer keeps them parallel, so I never think about that anymore.
 
Dji says straight up for 5.8 and a forward angle (40°?) for 2.4. I never heard about the forward angle before the p4p so maybe it has to do with a different antenna? Regardless, I use windsurfers and on 2.4 I still keep them straight up. I have a tough time trusting 5.8 at longer stretches and haven't tried it yet. Old habits I suppose. For me 2.4 with custom channel. Never liked auto channel either because it seems to glitch while finding another channel. It's momentary but bothersome for me. At 200+ feet high I don't really see any interference no matter what. Maybe lower at take off but once the bird is up there this business of interference never really comes into play.
 
Dji says straight up for 5.8 and a forward angle (40°?) for 2.4. I never heard about the forward angle before the p4p so maybe it has to do with a different antenna? Regardless, I use windsurfers and on 2.4 I still keep them straight up. I have a tough time trusting 5.8 at longer stretches and haven't tried it yet. Old habits I suppose. For me 2.4 with custom channel. Never liked auto channel either because it seems to glitch while finding another channel. It's momentary but bothersome for me. At 200+ feet high I don't really see any interference no matter what. Maybe lower at take off but once the bird is up there this business of interference never really comes into play.
I too was a staunch custom channel 2.4Ghz pilot with my P4 and P3P. However the P4P with 5.8ghz defies logic. It goes farther with a P4P than 2.4Ghz, possibly because there's less interference with 5.8 band. You'll have to try it to believe it, 4 to 5mi range. I would never advise anyone to buy a P4A, it uses the same crappy GL300C that P4 uses, which is the weakest RC DJI has manufactured to date, lucky to get 1 mile. Just say NO to that POS.

As for antennas, they should always be pointing straight up to facilitate the radio waves to efficiently emit from the side of the antenna, perpendicular to the antenna shaft.
 
Yeah a few pages back I contemplated the p4a but I ended up with the p4p. Love this bird. I'm gonna make an effort to use 5.8 and see how it goes. The longest I'd ever need to fly is around 4k', not 4 miles lol. For that it probably doesn't even matter but I do want to utilize 5.8. It's one reason I went with the p4p. I put the windsurfers on immediately too and I wonder if they're even really needed at this point. I have two different sets, a one piece and a two piece of windsurfers. I've always preferred the two piece so I can get a V split a bit. Not super wide, but some separation.

Btw is it me or is the p4p rc lighter than the P3 rc? I swear it's lighter. Maybe it's my imagination.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
143,066
Messages
1,467,354
Members
104,934
Latest member
jody.paugh@fullerandsons.