Vision 2+ wifi units fix and why they are dying.

[allemtura]

I'd like a quick sanity check on my wifi thermal mod if possible please.

Is it normal for these two chips to have a slightly warped, lumpy surface?





Also, is it ok/safe to include folded foil on these chips to aid heat transfer? I guess the thermal paste will hold it in place, but I wonder if vibrations could cause it to slip off?

 

[RichWest]

It's a thermal conductive epoxy. Which can be used as intended or could be used to obscure the identifying information on the chip.... I believe it is the latter for these particular chips.

 

[allemtura]

That's good to know, thank you. I thought it might have been heat damage so am glad it's not.

 

[lukode]

Hello!
First of all thanks for this thread.
In the last flight i detected sats problems when i recorded video and there was lag on the preview dji app video. Searching for the issue i found this thread. For the moment i can see the fpv and there is no black screen yet. have caught my module in time?
What have to do with the black pad in the down side? Is it for trash or cut and add arctic paste for both sides?
Thx for replies

 

[wxviewer007]

A Couple of questions.
1st...I have a V.3 wifi that is toast. I'm going to do the Arctic Silver thermal compound on all of the chips from the first page on another V.3 wifi module that has not yet failed.
Additionally, I found these perfectly sized aluminum heat sinks(1st picture) I plan on using a thermal adhesive from Arctic Silver and mount 2 of them to the top of the wifi module.
I'm curious to know if anyone has tried this yet?
Amazon Part:
10 Pcs 20mm x 20mm x 6mm Aluminum Heatsink for IC MOSFET SCR


2nd... I noticed when I swapped a good used wifi module with the toasted one, when I tried to plug in the one cable, it seemed like it was too short! Both modules are V.3. Further inspection showed that I have absolutely no slack to give the connector. (See 2nd Picture).
Any ideas as to how to reroute this cable? I didn't want to chance it without checking in here.

 

[shiftline]

Do the heat sinks fit on inside of the case?

 

[wxviewer007]

Absolutely yes! On top of the Wi-Fi module it fits inside the shell and does not touch the GPS under the top.
We are going to add these on today.

Here are the heat sinks before application.

 

[juangelb]

hi people.


First of all I would like to congratulate all of you by the beautifull work and contibutions to all of us.

I would like also to tell my experience on this. (WIFI Module)
I installed a very little 12 VDC brushless blower in PV2+ (25X25X10 mm), along with a connector outside the PV2+ that allows me to connect or not the blower.
Powering it directly from voltage feed at nearest ESC.

DSC03676-Power-connector

• juangelb
• Nov 2, 2015

Power connector for internal brushless blower

DSC03684-blower

• juangelb
• Nov 2, 2015

Also, to achieve the full (near) battery discharge between 20 charges ... i thought it is not a good idea to let the Phantom powered up until battery discharges....
So i constructed this "battery discharger" with a 5 OHMS 50 Watts resistor, a heatshinc and a blower to perform battery discharging.
It takes about 1 and half hour to discharge the battery.

DSC03642Discharger

• juangelb
• Nov 2, 2015

For discharging PV2+ battery

 

[shiftline]

So you thermal paste the chip to the housing and the heatsink to the wifi casing. I guess it all adds up! Looks like you left the heatsink pads inside as well? Would it work better to connect it directly to the cover?

 

[Mori55]

Can I just buy a new wifi unit ? Are the newer ones improved ? I have a plus.
If so what do I buy ?

 

[DLinzy]

www.atkdrones.com (JIM) is selling the v3's for 185 tell him Denny sent ya... I have 1 on order.

 

[DLinzy]

I recently purchased these.... NEW Lot of 5 Ceramic GPS Antenna 1575R-A Passive 25* 25* 4mm

Are they the correct ones for the P2V+ as my first one didn't seem to add any Sats until I was outside then it went from the usual 6 - 7 to 11 - 12.

I have 3 spares for free, just cover mailing costs to any one in the COTUS ...

Denny

 

[Mori55]

I'll take one. I live in nj

 

[Mori55]

I just mailed or pm you or whatever it is on this app.

 

[wxviewer007]

So you thermal paste the chip to the housing and the heatsink to the wifi casing. I guess it all adds up! Looks like you left the heatsink pads inside as well? Would it work better to connect it directly to the cover?

Yes I went with the original mod and took a step further by adding the aluminum heat sinks to the Wi-Fi module itself.

 

[Davowalshy]

Hi everyone. I have recently installed a dbs itelite panel and 2.4ghz dipoles to my v2+ and just changed to the litchi app. It gives the option to boost the FPV. After reading bits of this thread I am worried about burning out components. I am obviously only new to this thread but am curious. My quad has been really reliable so far but would like to prevent problems if possible. The weather in Sydney has been crappy here so I haven't been able to take them for a full run yet. Any thoughts?

 

[DLinzy]

It shouldn't be necessary to boost since you have the best upgrades done. My advice would be to fly it and see if it meets your needs as is, and if not then boost. If you don't have the V3 wifi transmitter with the holes, or haven't modified the output chips with Artic Silver you will have to at some point.

Denny

 

[Mako79]

Hi everyone. I have recently installed a dbs itelite panel and 2.4ghz dipoles to my v2+ and just changed to the litchi app. It gives the option to boost the FPV. After reading bits of this thread I am worried about burning out components. I am obviously only new to this thread but am curious. My quad has been really reliable so far but would like to prevent problems if possible. The weather in Sydney has been crappy here so I haven't been able to take them for a full run yet. Any thoughts?

IMHO... regardless perforated or non perforated wifi modules, you should still do the artic silver 5 mod. The white paste DJI uses doesn't look efficient.

And regards to boosting and presevation.. best BOT to boost unless required. I fly normally and boost when over 500m or when I see the FPV get sketchy. And don't transfer files via the wifi to device unless its hovering or getting enough cooling. This overheats your module especially if the phantom is idling without props on. Best practice is to remove the SD and transfer via PC.

 

[MapMaker53]

And I recommend increasing the cooling effect of the prop wash airflow through the shell by opening up its narrow vent slots.

 

[wxviewer007]

Yes heat sinks directly attached to wifi module.