The difference between AEB and NDR in Phantom 3 Camera

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I would like to call on the photography experts in this forum to (in understandable terms) what is the difference between AEB and HDR. Also it is my understanding that with these two settings should be used with a tripod. Is the drone capable of hovering this still, even with a light breeze?

Please shine some light on this issue.
 
I would like to call on the photography experts in this forum to (in understandable terms) what is the difference between AEB and HDR. Also it is my understanding that with these two settings should be used with a tripod. Is the drone capable of hovering this still, even with a light breeze?

Please shine some light on this issue.

AEB (Auto Exposure Bracketing) will give you either 3 or 5 photos with varying exposures either side of the initial picture you are taking, you can then use these to produce an HDR(High Dynamic range) image. Setting the Phantom to HDR automatically takes the varying exposures and outputs a single HDR image. Im certainly no expert but in my limited use, using a program like Adobe Lightroom and producing the HDR image yourself can give you better results.
 
HDR automatically combines a number of images into one they had a wife dynamic range. It is better than the original, but, is jpg quality.
AEB allows you to make your own HDR in software such as Lightroom from RAW files which are superior.
 
HDR automatically combines a number of images into one they had a wife dynamic range. It is better than the original, but, is jpg quality.
AEB allows you to make your own HDR in software such as Lightroom from RAW files which are superior.

Thank you for your reply

For HDR then, is the drone steady enough for this type of photo?
 
The gimbal is what makes the Phantom camera stable.
A tripod is not necessary for HDR photography as the software used can adjust for minor image alignment issues.
For aerial images, the difference is smaller than most photography on the ground because the camera to subject distance is usually much more.
 
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The gimbal is what makes the Phantom camera stable.
A tripod is not necessary for HDR photography as the software used can adjust for minor image alignment issues.
For aerial images, the difference is smaller than most photography on the ground because the camera to subject distance is usually much more.


Thank you for your help.
 
The only time I have had trouble with ghosting was using the internal HDR and taking pictures of my son on his bike (I forgot it was in HDR - great piloting practice by the way, trying to track a 6yo on a bike). As far as HDR goes the internal is pretty weak (maybe -0.3, +0.3?) and there are no adjustments possible.

Option #2 is the 5AEB which takes 5 rapid (250ms for all 5, acccording to my digital stopwatch test pictures) at a bracketing of 0, -0.3, +0.3, -0.7, +0.7, which gives you a 1.4EV spread which is workable.

Option #3, only possible because the P3 is so insanely stable, is manual mode. Take a photo at 0EV, use the wheel on the remote to adjust down to -2EV, take a picture, adjust up to +2EV, take a picture. Post process in Lightroom or HDR software of your choice.

Example of a manual -2, 0, +2 manual HDR (lightroom):
DJI_0300-HDR.jpg
 
Are AEB and HDR features somewhere on the phantom app? Sorry for sounding stupid but I searched and couldn't find anything that would allow me to take 3 to 5 pics in one shot. That would be great to see which exposure adjustment makes the picture the most defined.
 
Go to the camera in the app. Push the shutter button on the device screen and hold it. All the options will pop up.
 
Are AEB and HDR features somewhere on the phantom app? Sorry for sounding stupid but I searched and couldn't find anything that would allow me to take 3 to 5 pics in one shot. That would be great to see which exposure adjustment makes the picture the most defined.
All in here .. hold the app shutter button for a couple of seconds (when the drone is fired up and connected) and you get this .....
i-j33q4Wq-M.png

Find a youtube walkthrough for the app and it will show you more.

ps .. sometimes HDR will do wonders for a picture while other pictures don't benefit from the treatment.
And it's easy to overdo HDR so after you play around with it, think about toning it down a little.
Often the best HDR photography is the photos you can't tell were HDR.

Subtle HDR
SD_34-L.jpg

A little bit over the top HDR (but not as much as you'd think - this place looks pretty much like this)
Manarola-L.jpg

Exaggerated HDR (look at that sky) - but in small doses this can still be acceptable - just don't overdo it.
Tree_1e-L.jpg
 
I don't mind the more cartoon-like treatment in some situations, but it can be used in a quite subtle way where you'd hardly notice unless you compared it with a single shot.
Basically the idea is to create a scene which shows a wider range from dark to light in a way more like we would see it ourselves.
To some extent you can use regular photo software to lift the shadows and pull back bright areas in a single frame - especially using RAW - but using the combined AEB bracketed images you can go that bit further without making a muddy greyness.
 

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