Smooth panning.

The POI concentrates the camera on a focal point and rotates the AC around it. I want to keep the AC stationary and pan the view 360º from that point.
I can understand the Expo helping as it reduces the amount of input for a given amount of stick movement.
Just waiting for a still day to give it a go!
Then you are not grasping what Expo does. Search for some videos on YouTube to get an understanding.
 
Have you tried bumping the frame rate up to 60fps, and then produce a slo-mo clip at 30fps in post? Should smooth things out. Does for me anyway
 
I know exactly what the exponential curve is bdooley having been flying model planes for more than 60 years (mind you we didn't have servos for many of those). Like that idea James, thank you.
This is my little garden from above. I just thought it would be nice to hover over the little central flower bed and rotate 360º with the camera facing outwards to look at the surrounding flower beds. Practicing annotating as well :cool:
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You can change settings and do all that has been posted
but nothing is going to be as good as just stick practice .
Find your groove and go for it. Practice what you want and when the light is right go for it. :cool:
 
My apologies. I misread your post. I thought you said you can't understand why expo would help.
 
I know exactly what the exponential curve is bdooley having been flying model planes for more than 60 years (mind you we didn't have servos for many of those). Like that idea James, thank you.
This is my little garden from above. I just thought it would be nice to hover over the little central flower bed and rotate 360º with the camera facing outwards to look at the surrounding flower beds. Practicing annotating as well :cool:
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Probably the best method for your objective of a 360° view of your garden would be stitching a 360° panorama together from individual still shots taken every 45° of rotation around the hover point. You can also create full 360° spherical panoramas at different heights by adding in stills from panning up 30° and 30°, in 3 overlapping layers, plus two ground shots, looking straight down at right angles. Then, in the 360° panorama webviewing, the viewer can zoom in and around manually, and also enable a preset perfectly smooth autorotation speed, simulating the drone rotation in a video. Better resolution, and no video panning issues.
 
Uuum depending on the height of the flowers in the flower bed what about a square of wood mounted on a panning head on a tripod or if the tripods column can rotate directly on the tripod itself then sit the drone on the wood.......


As a general question, is parallax error a problem with close up pans using a drone camera?
 
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Uuum depending on the height of the flowers in the flower bed what about a square of wood mounted on a panning head on a tripod or if the tripods column can rotate directly on the tripod itself then sit the drone on the wood.......


As a general question, is parallax error a problem with close up pans using a drone camera?
For a stitched panorama, lens correction can be included in the post processing to virtually eliminate parallax error, but the current DJI camera lenses are already pretty good at rectilinear correction to avoid it in the first place, unlike the old GoPros. P3 is also still pretty good in that regard for a wide angle FOV.
 
Sorry Gadgetguy but I think we might be talking about different problems, I think you are referring to curvature of straight lines, 'fisheye effect'.
The parallax error I asking about is a parallax misalignement, in separate photos in a stitch sequence, between close and distant objects caused by the lens not rotating about the "entrance pupil" (the name of the point changes depending on the article being read).
The following looks to be a good read FINDING THE NO-PARALLAX POINT
 
Sorry Gadgetguy but I think we might be talking about different problems, I think you are referring to curvature of straight lines, 'fisheye effect'.
The parallax error I asking about is a parallax misalignement, in separate photos in a stitch sequence, between close and distant objects caused by the lens not rotating about the "entrance pupil" (the name of the point changes depending on the article being read).
The following looks to be a good read FINDING THE NO-PARALLAX POINT
Yes, sorry, confusing the problems. Thanks for clarifying. I haven't seen any noticeable problems, but I also haven't done any close-up pans. Most of mine are from farther away, depending upon what you consider close-up. So, the issue you are referring to is not rotating around the nodal point of the lens, and, instead, just yawing the aircraft, which would create a more significant problem the closer the drone is to the subject. Makes sense that it would be an issue.
 
Which of these two expo settings will give rotation for the least amount of stick movement, ie slowest?

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IMG_8939 22.05.34.jpg
 
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Uuum depending on the height of the flowers in the flower bed what about a square of wood mounted on a panning head on a tripod or if the tripods column can rotate directly on the tripod itself then sit the drone on the wood.......
I love this idea PF but I may as well use my camera to do this on its tripod! I want to learn to smooth pan the drone when its flying, not always at ground level.
A 360ºof our little village would be nice but to date, too jerky!

Anybody know if there is a circuit diagram out there somewhere? I haven't found one. My thinking is to see what variable resistor is attached to the stick. If it's a linear one, change it to log, or just change its value to reduce the amount of change one gets from stick movement.
 
I use the side of my thumb pressing the stick till I get the speed
then press down on the controller to maintain it.
 
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Been there, tried that dirklod! As soon as I touch the stick the drone jerks one way or the other. I'm beginning to suspect the variable resistor hence the previous post.
 
Been there, tried that dirklod! As soon as I touch the stick the drone jerks one way or the other. I'm beginning to suspect the variable resistor hence the previous post.
Ok ,we used to have a member here named J Dot that made slow mod switch’s. It cut the spin way down. Do a search for slow mod
and you will see what he was using . Now these were in P2’s but
you might can get an idea. He made those switches and I got several of them used them and they worked great.
They were not vearable but it helped and then change your expo‘s slow.

Heres another guy. http://www.phantompilots.com/viewtopic.php?t=23497
 
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Thanks dirkclod, I'll investigate.

OK, investigated, looks interesting. I believe you have one of these switch arrangements ? Where are the resistors, must be switched into the yellow Leeds I presume?
image.jpeg
 
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Thanks dirkclod, I'll investigate.

OK, investigated, looks interesting. I believe you have one of these switch arrangements ? Where are the resistors, must be switched into the yellow Leeds I presume?
View attachment 122616
It’s been so long you would have to search cause it’s been so long since I was into it I would have to search. And will as soon as I get time. At the moment kinda sick and all I can do to make my rounds but will. ?
Edit. Been a long time since Jerry been on but just ask him to jime in. He might not but he was my man on this stuff. I never had the knowledge and did all my stuff so maybe he will answer.
 
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Hope you're OK there, don't sound very happy at the moment.
I did PM Jerry but no reply yet, I'l send an email.................

I moved the Expo to .20, slowest setting and used my thumb to nudge the stick and did manage a much slower pan, but it was very windy so very uneven.
I'll go again when the wind dies off but would still like to play with the switch mod, just for something to play with!. Love making electronic things, made my own lens heater utilising a 3s Lipo and eight 2 ohm resistors in an old lens hood! Works a treat.

Cheers mate, keep safe.
 
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Hello
Ok, I’m here, I’m here!
Lol hi Dirk! Long time Ole’ friend!
Hope you are well , and our little Co-Pilot is well!
I’ve sent emails out to ( Michael ) , and am digging for other tech specs on the mod, to help with his build! I even have an old kit for my last version switch I built ( offered to him for free! ) requires assembly, but may help with understanding the Tx and how it operates, always better when YOU build it yourself! Then you can diagnose issues with ease!
Shoot me a email anytime Dirk! Would love to catch up!
J Dot
( Jerry Dotson )
 
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