RotorPixel Gimbal Technical Discussion

I guess this is my own personal thread to talk to myself now. :lol:

I've done 8 full battery flights and can't get a perfectly smooth video throughout. There are some really good parts where it's rock solid, some mediocre spots with the slightest amount of jello over long periods of time, and some bad spots that look worse than the 1 axis stock gimbal, except the horizon is level. I was hoping this was going to be plug and play but it's definitely been difficult for me to dial in.

The jello seems to be coming from vibrations caused by the P2V when it's correcting for wind. Are there any other options for dampeners? I heard someone talking about ear plugs. How does that work? Drill a hole in them?

Should I go into the software and play with the gimbal settings? I'm at a loss...
 
Sorry I can't help you gfredrone, as I haven't had time to fly mine yet. I'm wondering if this picture below might raise an issue, it the pitch control wire from the P2V, it seems to be a very tight fit in between the P2V and the Rotorpixel gimbal mount. Does this look right, as it might chaff the wire or cause vibration to get to the gimbal?

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Mine was like that, before I pushed the white screws fully into the the dampers, as per Pull_ups video... Once they were pushed in, the plate drops and there's a bigger gap... Can't see from the photos what yours are like...
 
Shedracer said:
Sorry I can't help you gfredrone, as I haven't had time to fly mine yet. I'm wondering if this picture below might raise an issue, it the pitch control wire from the P2V, it seems to be a very tight fit in between the P2V and the Rotorpixel gimbal mount. Does this look right, as it might chaff the wire or cause vibration to get to the gimbal?

I ran my pitch cable through the channel in the gimbal towards the front of the P2V so that neither the wire or connector is pinched between the gimbal and hull. I did have to tack the wire up with a piece of tape afterwards to keep the ear of the camera housing from hitting it at extreme ends of the motion.

I don't think that it's important that the cable specifically runs forwards (or backwards). But, you must be sure it's not pinched between the hull and the gimbal.

-- Roger
 
Hey guys. Mine showed up without hardware. What the hell? I will email Keri but I hope he is watching this thread.
Jim



Edit - I'm a **** idiot I found it in a sea of peanuts! Sorry Keri!
 
RJOS said:
Hey guys. Mine showed up without hardware. What the hell? I will email Keri but I hope he is watching this thread.
Jim
What are you saying? Was it built on a Friday or Monday? :)
 
My pitch cable is taped to the craft so that the cable runs in the little channel on top if the gimbal if compressed to the airframe.

Something I noticed while holding the P2V in my hands today and squeezing the gimbal to the airframe is that one of the black rubber inserts into the damper is not acting like the other three. The other three slide out a bit if you compress the gimbal to the airframe. The one that doesn't seems like it sticks to the rubber material of the damper possibly causing that corner to not absorb any shock. I'll try swapping them around to different corners tomorrow and see if this fixes my jello.
 

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Shedracer said:
Sorry I can't help you gfredrone, as I haven't had time to fly mine yet. I'm wondering if this picture below might raise an issue, it the pitch control wire from the P2V, it seems to be a very tight fit in between the P2V and the Rotorpixel gimbal mount. Does this look right, as it might chaff the wire or cause vibration to get to the gimbal?

If you undo the rear two thumbscrews and partially lift the gimbal assembly you can use your Allen key that came in the hardware packet to put a bit of tension on the wire bundle to carefully pull it clear of the isolation plate. You don't want it jammed in there as shown in your photo. There is enough wire to pull enough slack to clear the metal plate. Once you have put some slack in the wire bundle, carefully reattach the aft thumbscrews, watching to see that you don't get jammed up again.

Otherwise, the aircraft will transmit the shakes into the metal isolation plate....
 
outlaw704 said:
Rotorpixel (429) was shipped on Friday, 4/11 by Canada Post. Tracking number worked usps.com website. Arrived on Tuesday, 4/16 in good shape.

Unboxing was similar to Pull_Up's video, with minor exceptions. There is a black thumbscrew with a black fitting that goes into the left “ear” of the camera. The white thumbscrews that go into the damping balls in the early videos show a five-sided star shape. Mine are two-sided, more like turn-keys, probably for ease of counting turns. The 3D printed parts are satisfactory in appearance, you can tell however, they were printed with the speed turned up, probably in order to push production quantities.

The metal CNC parts of my set up were fairly dirty. Some black, dusty gunk (oxidation maybe) was on all of those parts. The stuff was carried over on some of the white 3D printed parts (maybe during testing and packaging) and gave them a dusty, dirty appearance too. I'd suggest wiping those parts well before handling them to prevent making a mess on the rest of your set up.

The printed instructions are fairly easy to follow. I'd add a step to remove the battery before starting the actual installation. Removing the camera from the original is “fiddly”, you'll have to put some significant pressure on the camera ears to remove it from the original gimbal.

Step 12 of the instructions refers to a small white spacer that goes into the left camera ear. In my kit there was a black thumbscrew and black spacer – so I believe this is a mod and the instructions have not been updated.

After connecting the cable from the inside of the P2V to the gimbal, you'll want to make sure there are no pinched wires. I used the allen wrench to keep tension on the wire bundle while attaching the metal isolation plate to the white damping balls. By doing this, it left a good amount of slack in the wire bundle with no pinching between the top plate and aircraft body and no interference with any moving parts.

The redesigned white thumbscrews went in easily and I did not have to slip the isolation plate down onto them – just screwed them in for 7 turns. Before powering up, check that all connections were well seated and pushed all the way in.

With the Rotorpixel mounted and sitting on a flat surface, my camera just bottoms out. I raised the PV2 up by putting 1” x 2”s under the landing gear. This allowed the gimbal to boot up for the first time without touching anything or bottoming out. Once it “woke up” and aligned itself, after 5 seconds, it was balanced and aligned and almost silent. No vibration or rattling noises.

For the first flight, I used the 1” x 2”s to launch from – again so that the camera was not bottoming out. There was a significant increase in left stick up required to make a positive lift off. I used full left stick up, where I rarely had to do that with the original gimbal. This was not a big deal – just be ready to apply more left stick due to the added weight.

This flight was in very light winds. The Rotorpixel performance was excellent. No jello, no props in view and very, very little yaw correction in GPS mode. I am pretty convinced, that with smooth flying I'll get very good video clips. I am and will continue to be a hand landing guy, especially with the camera now hanging right down to the same level as the landing gear.

I have a TradeCraft case. I will have to make a few minor modifications to make my PV2/RotorPixel fit properly. It will fit – but it will require some minor surgery to the TradeCraft case first.

Overall, I'm very impressed and glad I have this setup. I'll have to wait for windier conditions to see if I think the third axis will be necessary. At this early stage, as a first impression I'd rate it a 9.25 out of 10.00.

Great Post, just one point. You don't have to put any pressure on the camera ears to get it to separate from the stock pitch control. Just rotate the camera full down to expose the gear slot, use a small flat tip screwdriver on the inside of the ear to press the white spacer outward, about halfway out the camera will just drop into your hand.
 
F6Rider said:
Great Post, just one point. You don't have to put any pressure on the camera ears to get it to separate from the stock pitch control. Just rotate the camera full down to expose the gear slot, use a small flat tip screwdriver on the inside of the ear to press the white spacer outward, about halfway out the camera will just drop into your hand.

Gaaah! I wish I would have known this one. It should definitely be included in detail in the RotorPixel instructions. As the early adopters comment here, on Facebook and by email to RotorPixel, they ought to continuosly refine their documentation. With all the focus on production, the documentation is not being updated as necessary. The instructions could already use a rewrite. In these early stages, RotorPixel should be doing a weekly review and update of the documentation, including the website. "Ramping up production" is becoming a stale excuse... I'm dropping my rating to 9.0 out of 10. Still a nice product, though.
 
How can I tell if I have a bad prop without a balancing rod? I noticed jello in my videos today while it was still sitting on the ground w/ props spinning. The P2V also seems to be vibrating/oscillating violently while hovering. I watched it for hover for about 2 minutes 3 feet from my face in calm air and can see the vibrations being transferred from the P2V to the camera. Trying to narrow this down...
 
Hello. My RP gimbal works great I have no issues at all with it - but I keep sinking. I understand it is probably the vertical gain, but I'm not sure how much to crank it up. Any suggestions?
 
RJOS said:
Hello. My RP gimbal works great I have no issues at all with it - but I keep sinking. I understand it is probably the vertical gain, but I'm not sure how much to crank it up. Any suggestions?
I don't think anyone has posted gain settings for the rotopixel addition, I have seen in other threads other gain settings for the phantom 2 with other gimble sand go pro, I think the factory settings were higher on attitude around 200% .
I'm waiting for mine to arrive and hope someone with this gimble has tested this and opted figures :geek:
 
does it sink when ur just hovering or when it's moving. People have noticed it "sinks" when the battery level goes less than 30%
 
Just back from first test flight and a couple of questions. Installation was simple enough although the instructions in the box are slightly different than those on the website (which I followed). I may have lucked out as everything else seems rattle/noise free. it does sound like the motors are working harder to me.

Issues:

  • A couple of times the horizon was at an angle, it looks like the thin white cable to the camera snags on the aluminium bracket. Initially I had it coming out at 11 O'clock from the rear, changed it to about 9:30 but doesn't seem to help.
  • Jello is horrendous - used 7 turns as the median, my first question is what increments to adjust by 1/4 turns, 1/2 etc?
  • I Tweaked the original gimbal settings to make the camera more 'horizontal', however when throwing the Phantom about (deliberately) I can actually see the arms, so what setting are people using to remove these or is it simply that the gimbal gives a wider range or movement than the original and this is unavoidable. id like to know what the default and modified ones are for ease of reference
 
In the software the number of poles for the gimbal motors are set to 14 but I'm only counting 12 wire bundles on each motor which should correlate to 12 poles. Also the software is auto detecting 12 poles. Does this need to be changed in the gimbal settings?

@ seahorse, what settings did you change for the horizon issue? I having the same problem from time to time.
 
Geert said:
RJOS said:
Hello. My RP gimbal works great I have no issues at all with it - but I keep sinking. I understand it is probably the vertical gain, but I'm not sure how much to crank it up. Any suggestions?

Don't mess up with the settings. Leave them as they are. If you changed them, put to back.
Just follow the installation instructions from Rotorpixel and you should be fine.

Geert.


Thanks for the reply Geert. But - the bugger sinks, won't hover and maintain alt. I have to fix that. What other option is there?
Jim
 

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