Radio light 10 seconds green then 10 seconds red. Fried gimbal board?

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#1
I have just acquired a P3S and am having issues with radio connection. The gimbal is broken. I am able to fly it fine within around 100yds line of sight. But that is it. It just hits an imaginary wall and sometimes initiates a RTH from I believe radio link brownout. The controller switches every 10 seconds between green light and red light. In the DJI go app it will connect momentarily when the controller light is green, and I can quickly adjust a few settings. I have adjusted max height and RTH height, as well as taking it out of beginner mode. I believe it is either a problem with the receiver or my transmitter. Is the receiver somehow part of the gimbal electronics? Is it part of the main electronics board? Or is it still in beginner mode? Do I need to reflow some cracked solder connection, or are the electronics just shot and overheating? Any advice on this would be awesome. Thanks
 
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#2
I would suggest relinking your RC and AC first in an environment relatively free of signal interference (wifi etc) and see how things are.
 
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#3
3rdof5 Thanks for that suggestion. I did do this several times but not in a signal free area. It linked no problem multiple times, and the green light for linking is steady on the aircraft. Also the wireless connection between the transmitter and phone stays connected in airplane mode.
 
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#4
3rdof5 Thanks for that suggestion. I did do this several times but not in a signal free area. It linked no problem multiple times, and the green light for linking is steady on the aircraft. Also the wireless connection between the transmitter and phone stays connected in airplane mode.
Well clearly your wifi stays on in airplane mode which you need with the P3S so thats a good thing. Don't know what else to suggest tho.
 
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#5
I have just acquired a P3S and am having issues with radio connection. The gimbal is broken. I am able to fly it fine within around 100yds line of sight. But that is it. It just hits an imaginary wall and sometimes initiates a RTH from I believe radio link brownout. The controller switches every 10 seconds between green light and red light. In the DJI go app it will connect momentarily when the controller light is green, and I can quickly adjust a few settings. I have adjusted max height and RTH height, as well as taking it out of beginner mode. I believe it is either a problem with the receiver or my transmitter. Is the receiver somehow part of the gimbal electronics? Is it part of the main electronics board? Or is it still in beginner mode? Do I need to reflow some cracked solder connection, or are the electronics just shot and overheating? Any advice on this would be awesome. Thanks
Welcome to the Forum!,

"I can quickly adjust a few settings. I have adjusted max height and RTH height, as well as taking it out of beginner mode."

Do these settings stay, or you have to reset them?

Rod
 
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#6
Welcome to the Forum!,

"I can quickly adjust a few settings. I have adjusted max height and RTH height, as well as taking it out of beginner mode."

Do these settings stay, or you have to reset them?

Rod
The settings remain and changes in RTH function as set. Max distance is also not set, or unchecked.
 
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#7
Hum,

"The controller switches every 10 seconds between green light and red light. "
Like a routine?
When the app is working connected, does the signal level jump. Full, weak and None?
What does the link light do on the Phantom.

Rod
 
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#8
Hum,

"The controller switches every 10 seconds between green light and red light. "
Like a routine?
When the app is working connected, does the signal level jump. Full, weak and None?
What does the link light do on the Phantom.

Rod
Yes routine red 10 seconds, green 10 seconds...repeat.
Link light on Phantom is always solid green.
App connects and displays all info showed including battery only momentarily. I will have to retest and look at what the signal level says.
Thanks
 
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#9
The 10 on and off, I have never heard before.

"Is the receiver somehow part of the gimbal electronics? "
The WiFi signal starts at the gimbal, then the telemetry is added to the signal, then I think some what amplified? Then it goes to the antenna.

The signal sent to the remote is WiFi frequency's but two different channels. The remote receives these signals and then sends both via WiFi to your mobile device.

Any commands you send from your mobile, goes back through the WiFi connection to the remote and then sent from the remote to the Phantom. (On the remote control frequency which is not WiFi).

Take a look at these old posts.

Question about Radio, uplink, downlink, frequency, & telemetry

Best Method to RTH?

Lost signal (but not really)

"It linked no problem multiple times"
I think you must be linking successfully, but here is a note maybe for the future.

With no gimbal you won't be able to re-link, but when you try the link procedure if it fails, you will be still linked.
Example, you loose your remote, etc. You try to link a different remote, with no gimbal it won't link, you won't be able to fly it. Since the linking failed, it would still work with your old remote.

Rod
 
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#10
I was able to do some more bench testing. The transmitter controller only is able to reconnect with the AC with the gimbal board attached. Also without the gimbal board the transmitter light is solid red.
I also did field testing with different max distance settings and once I changed it to 500m from 30m the imaginary wall disappeared. This included trying with max distance on and off. It didn't seem to change anything until the max distance was actually adjusted.
Now it is time to get out the magnifying glass and soldering iron. To try and see if I can get this gimbal board fixed. Unless someone has a magical source on a good one as they are no longer available from DJI or others.
 
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