Possible answer to why some have cracked shells
- Thread starter spaceweasel
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That is a relief, I was worried that they didn't use quality tools for these repairs.
I had about 90 flights, 110 miles and 16 hours on my P3P purchased in Nov 2015 before sending it in for repair due to the first very small crack. They turned it around within 2 weeks including shipping time (no cost for repair or shipping).
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Just got my p3a couple weeks ago. I check every day for the horrible cracking issue. Praying it doesn't happen. But I can tell you this. There's no way in hell in gonna fly it super gentle with no hair raising maneuvers. If that's what it takes to keep this bird from breaking up like an egg I'd rather just get my money back. I read this whole thread and saw alot of theories about how the cracks happen. It's simply the materiel. I've got a p2v and I put that thing thru pure hell. Crashed it full speed into a metal door. Busted some props and the battery came out. Put new props on and took right back off. They tried to go cheap on p3 pure and simple. Hopefully it was only the first production run or so. That's the whole reason I waited so long to buy one. I'm hoping DJI extracted their heads from their asses between then and now. Lol. Will definitely report back if cracks start.
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FWIW, when I was having jello problems, I bought a Dubro truspin to balance my phantom's props. All 8 of them balanced perfectly, there was just nothing I could do to improve them.
I'm all for balancing props, but if my sample is at all representative, I suspect many with less-than-perfect (magnetic) balancers or alu rods being balanced on a drinking glass, will actually end up unbalancing their props.
Also, we've seen cracked shells on brand new phantoms, that havent even flown yet. So its more likely the root cause is either a manufacturing defect, or an issue with assembly, like overtightening certain screws or bolts, or bending the shell too much when putting it together.
I'm all for balancing props, but if my sample is at all representative, I suspect many with less-than-perfect (magnetic) balancers or alu rods being balanced on a drinking glass, will actually end up unbalancing their props.
Also, we've seen cracked shells on brand new phantoms, that havent even flown yet. So its more likely the root cause is either a manufacturing defect, or an issue with assembly, like overtightening certain screws or bolts, or bending the shell too much when putting it together.
Three normal easy flights in on my P3P and I just noticed a small hairline crack in the location in question. I ordered the reinforcement plates. Giving thought to using the zip tie idea as well. Could I apply some normal plastic type epoxy to this little crack as well?
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I didn't read thu 3 pages, I have no cracks, I fly it pretty gently. But why don't people buy some epoxy and smear it all over the shell portion that is likely to crack before it cracks. Don't do it over the screw holes or where the motor sits, but basically make your phantom stronger before it gets weaker! It probably will only add a few grams and dries clear so it wont make your phantom look crazy. I might just do that myself
A popular idea in other posts has been to use Plast-aid on the inside around the motor mounts as a lightweight reinforcement.
I purchased some to put in the shell I just had hydro-dipped before I install it. In the meantime I have used it on several non-drone projects and the stuff is amazing! But be sure to use it in a well ventilated area, like outside 20 feet away from any doors or windows...
I purchased some to put in the shell I just had hydro-dipped before I install it. In the meantime I have used it on several non-drone projects and the stuff is amazing! But be sure to use it in a well ventilated area, like outside 20 feet away from any doors or windows...
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for surface cracks use Bondic. it is a UV cured resin. Google it. About $20.00 for a kit. cures instantly. good for a field kit.
