Polarpro ND filter and focusing issues

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Hello all,
This is my first post here. I 'm french pro drone pilot and I just receive a P4proV2+.
I was shooting with Mavic with is a real good drone for small and fast productions (youtube dedicated).
I always use ND filters to stay in the range of the 1/50 shutter speed and avoid jerky images on fast movements. The Mavic was at 25fps/PAL mode.
I have now a P4Pv2+ which shoots at 50fps/PAL mode with a better sensor (1p)
So I put, like usual, even before my first flight a Polar Pro ND filter and set the super speed to 100 (twice the frame rate law). ISO to 100. I shot a really bright and sunny day. Playing with manual aperture like usual.
Back in studio, I de-rush and despite the manual focus before all shoots, all my rushes are like blurred...
For that first flight I did exactly the same trajectory with the MPP and then the P4PV2+.
I Use brand new filter for the Phantom, carefully cleaned with microfiber...

common settings : sunny light - 100 ISO - ND8 - extra smooth movements joystick settings
MPP was always sharp and perfect (even with his small sensor and 25fps rate)
P4PV2+... blurred, just like an out of focus (100 ISO- 1/100shutter speed-50fps).
Any advice ?
I will do the same flight without filter at the same hours when meteo ok and see what happens.
Thanx.

(I correct the mistyping)
 
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Your shutter speed should be 1/100th of a second (and not 100) but honestly I wouldn't recommend shooting higher than 30fps at 4K. There are several discussions you can find on this forum about how DJI does weird stuff to achieve HFRs with the limited bitrate available and it just doesn't look as good. Good luck.
 
sorry for the mistyping I use 1/100 of course...
I'll do many tests, I'm a "testing before use" guy
I bought the P4Pv2+ tu use 50fps... it will be a shame if I cannot use that !
Thanx for your quick answer !
 
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I read so much about jello, jerky guimbal, filter weight... about everyone recipes... and it is clear that phantom is not inspire.
But as I mentioned before I have done exactly the same pattern with my MPP and the P4Pv2+ same settings. Today is a windy day, no flights.
I have reset all I can do on the P4 and recalibrate all. But I have used the camera in hand with filter and it appears that the image is now well focused. Next real flight will tell.
I use C1 for center metering and I usualy focus on a 15 meters far object. With that, I'm focused 15 to horizon in good light conditions.
Why 50 fps ? because fast movements are far better in 4k/50fps and so to stick fashion of wip ramp and slow motion and post effects...
I have done more than 300km of flght with the MPP, for more than 25 commercials. I guess that the P4 will do at least the same job, slightly better !
 
If your Phantom is doing everything as it should, the result must be better than with previous drone.
The frame rate is sometimes overestimated 30 frames/sec is OK but 50 /sec is also good so don't bother much with this. I assume that we are talking about video. At stills is a bit different. Iso 100 is OK (the lower the better). But you must be aware that ND8 prolongs exposition time. Not much but can become relevant in lo light scenery. My experience is, that ND and CP filters must be used in very specific weather condition. For the orientation ND absolutelly in high contrast scene at bright sun. When there is bright but cloudy light better is without any filter. Maybe just that low graduated filter which lowers usually too bright sky. You'll get much beter colors on the ground. But you must take some sky in your shots. If you film only the bottom part below the camera then you can get under exposed picture at one side.
So if the light is good usualy I don't use any filters. Corrections if necessary can be done in post. But too bright (burnout) areas as I said, can't be corrected in post. There is time to use NDs.
If your pictures are better focused without filter then don't use it.
 
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Thanx Andy, yes I'm a video producer. The problem in 4k is that the image looks quickly to sharp and jerks when doing fast camera movements. This problem in 25fps is almost corrected on UHD TV because they double display frequency to render smooth moves. On computers, editing station, the jerk problem is to take in consideration. Why sticking to the low shutter speed ? to get close the double frame rate to have this little motion blur that smooths the fast transitions. I usually film on extra sunny days with deadly contrasts and you are right ND is an obligation in this case just like the ND integrated in Pro cameras I use. It is the same logic.
I'll do some shots next few days, motor boats at sea and make a light slomo of it. I'll test and retex here.
Thank you all.
 
If you going to film over the water in sunny day you'll definitelly need to put the CP filter on.
But you know that already.
 
Just to follow and end this topic :
I solve the NDCP filter problem (the filter lens was having a subtle default) , image is now as sharp and defined as expected : ISO 100 shutter 100, diaphrag 5,6-6,2 ND-CP 4 in sunny conditions (my usual).
I did many combinaisons of test/ND and shutter/iso. In many cases with more than 100 feets high, the focus is good in foreground and background. For closest subjects, the manual focus (screen tap) is enough good ( a bit slow and "pumping").
I have the desired motion blur on fast backgrounds when following a fast moving bike or boat.
I have more than 250 flights with the MPP and only 40 with the P4Pv2+ (covid consequences also...). I really like those 2 and I have really good results in Cinelike profile in merging the images from both in FHD productions. In 4K, of course P4 is much more pro like and merging with MPP footage is a bit harder.
So all is good.
 
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Just to follow and end this topic :
I solve the NDCP filter problem (the filter lens was having a subtle default) , image is now as sharp and defined as expected : ISO 100 shutter 100, diaphrag 5,6-6,2 ND-CP 4 in sunny conditions (my usual).
I did many combinaisons of test/ND and shutter/iso. In many cases with more than 100 feets high, the focus is good in foreground and background. For closest subjects, the manual focus (screen tap) is enough good ( a bit slow and "pumping").
I have the desired motion blur on fast backgrounds when following a fast moving bike or boat.
I have more than 250 flights with the MPP and only 40 with the P4Pv2+ (covid consequences also...). I really like those 2 and I have really good results in Cinelike profile in merging the images from both in FHD productions. In 4K, of course P4 is much more pro like and merging with MPP footage is a bit harder.
So all is good.
I think I'm having similar issues with my P4P V2. I was over water with an ND, and ever since my low light focus is non-existent. What did you do to correct the issue? I have had several frustrating attempts at early a.m. and dusk shoots. Did I miss that post?
 
Hello Taah1,
I just change the ND filter to a brand new one. Make sure it is well positioned before screwing it, and of course always clean it on his both sides before mounting.
Regards
 

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