Phantom 4 pro true hyperlapse

Lovely work, bit heavy on the tilt shift blur in my opinion :) Ever thought about animating the blur to keep a subject in focus?

Which App do you use to trigger the Fotos. DJI GS Pro only allows Videos or a picture on every waypoint as far as I know. Is this done with Litchi?
 
Lovely work, bit heavy on the tilt shift blur in my opinion :) Ever thought about animating the blur to keep a subject in focus?

Which App do you use to trigger the Fotos. DJI GS Pro only allows Videos or a picture on every waypoint as far as I know. Is this done with Litchi?
In some scenes I animated the blur at the end. But everything is very fast.
Litchi yes.
 

This Little World
"Are we just a toy in hands of time?”

Created by Kostas Gur
Music: "The Time To Run" by Dexter Britain
Under Creative Commons Licence

©2017 Kostas Gur


More about the film:
The film was created with the method of Hyperlapse (moving timelapse).
It took more than 10.000 photos of aspect ratio 3:2 with size 5472 × 3648 pixels of which 2100 photos were finally selected for the film.
The photos were color graded each by each and then edited for the final result.

Equipment:
Camera DJI Phantom 4 professional quadcopter
Workstation Apple MacBook Pro Retina 15.4 quad i7
Apps:
- Litchi
- AutoPilot
- DJI GS Pro
Software:
- Adobe Lightroom (for colorgrading)
- Adobe After Effects (for stabilization)
- Apple Final Cut Pro X (final editing)
WOW!
 
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Nicely done. I get the blur as depth of field is shallow on macro-photography. I really like it and I know it was a huge effort. I too would like to see it without blurring if just to admire your scenery. Thanks for posting.
 
Awesome! I know how much time it takes to make TLs, so well done.
I agree with some others here, if you had opened up the focus area a tad more, it would still have as cool toy effect, or even better, but its all in the eye of the beholder, and a matter of personal taste :)
 
Very nicely done! Great job.

I like everything about it. The blur is heavy, but it is common in Tilt Shift, this is just how it looks.
Also, i would assume you created this on a rather large screen. On my 55" TV it looks just fine.. on my cellphone it looks a bit too much. Thats always the struggle with blur/bokeh.....

anyway, great idea and nicely executed!
 
I hope you turned off the mechanical shutter for this. Mechanical shutters in the BEST cameras are rated for no more than 300,000 actuations. If you did this with the mechanical shutter, considering the inexpensive nature of the P4P camera... you might have just spend 25% of its life expectancy on this project.

Enjoyed the video. A little fast paced for me, but well done for sure.
 
Very nicely done! Great job.

I like everything about it. The blur is heavy, but it is common in Tilt Shift, this is just how it looks.
Also, i would assume you created this on a rather large screen. On my 55" TV it looks just fine.. on my cellphone it looks a bit too much. Thats always the struggle with blur/bokeh.....

anyway, great idea and nicely executed!

Funny thing is this, as the owner of every wide Tilt Shift made for Canon (and then some), it is nearly impossible to achieve this amount of blur with them in a full scale environment. You would have to shoot wide open, then open up a couple of extra stops to get it this fuzzy.
 
I've never understood tilt shift.

The 'shift' part is very easy to grasp. A shift lens is capable of shifting up/down and/or left/right on its mount. This gives a photographer a way to keep the sensor plane parallel to the subject while still having a way to change the composition of the photograph. So, if you were shooting a wall of rectangular bricks and you wanted the bricks to all look rectangular (with all 90 degree angles), your sensor will have to be parallel to the wall. That is easy if we just put the camera looking perfectly straight ahead. But, what if your camera position could not be altered but you wanted to see more to one side or the other? With a standard lens, you would need to change the angle of the camera. When you do that, all of those perfect rectangles turn into trapezoids - not the look you want. So, you grab your shift lens and use the shift to recompose the image while the 90 degree angles STAY 90 degree angles while still being able to 'look' more to the left or right, up or down.

Or, you are standing at the base of a tall building and you want to get it all in the frame - but you hate that 'falling back' appearance you get when you point the camera up. Grab a shift lens. Instead of pitching the camera up to get the top of the building in the frame, you raise the LENS while the camera still points perfectly straight ahead. Now you have the whole building in the frame with the sides of the building being parallel with themselves and the edges of your image.

The tilt is harder to explain, but in a nutshell, tilting allows the photographer to re-position the FOCAL plane. By tilting, someone could shoot a long banquet table from the near end to the far end, lens wide open, with the entire table being in focus and sharp. How? By tilting the lens down with respect to the sensor. The rotates the focal plane to align with the top surface of the table. However... if there is a tall candlestick on the table, the candle will be sharp at the BASE and get more and more out of focus as you get to the top. Technically, this is called the Schiempflug principle. Mathematically, the plane of the subject and the sensor will intersect somewhere in the Z axis. If you tilt the lens so that the LENS plane ALSO intersects this same point, the subject plane will be in focus from near to far.

Shifting is very common in architectural photography. Tilting is more prevalent with product photographers.
 
I appreciate the technical aspects of your explanation even though I meant I don't understand why people use it.
 
I hope you turned off the mechanical shutter for this. Mechanical shutters in the BEST cameras are rated for no more than 300,000 actuations. If you did this with the mechanical shutter, considering the inexpensive nature of the P4P camera... you might have just spend 25% of its life expectancy on this project.

The mech shutter in the P4P runs all of the time in video. So at 30 fps it would only last 2.8 hours by your numbers!

It's a tiny and simple mechanical shutter compared to those in SLR's - can go a hell of a lot longer than 300K shots.

(Unless it has two different shutters - one for video and one for stills? I don't think so, it's max speed is 1/2000)
 
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I had a friend with one show it to me and that made all the difference. Just looking through the viewfinder while he explained and then he fooled with the lens to fix those angles, my head exploded. I wanted one but they're just so expensive.

But on this video, it started perfectly still making me think he had some huge model and then things started moving through the frame. I'm in awe of this and I'm going to try to grasp this feeling, this vision to try to learn something so I can produce something far better than I've done so far. Thanks for sharing this, I loved it.
 
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