phantom 3 pro open heart--- gimbal flashing , fw 1.11.20, esc status error

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i feel ifound a new clue!i was inspecting the motor that has adent on it i found a glue like residues on some of motor winding wires inside the motor on two sides of the motor, in general i saw similar residues on brushless motors that got destroyed,, what do you say, its another sign to go the motor tested before considering the whole board replace or esc fix?? have any one got across such thing with a phantom 3? is there a link on how to check p3 esc other than the check done by p3 its self on the go app
 
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aside from this thread topic
here is a big question that i have only assumption answer for it and not tested it practically. lets suppose a phantom3 pro has a problem or crash that led to a lost gimbal, now lets say some one wants to use this phantom to fly it with the transmitter only( i mean no go app is used,since no gimbal is there to transfer any thing), even we can use a separate 5.8 ghz video transmitter like those we use for fpv... now if we fly this combo and signal is lost or some one wants a rth by pressing the home button on transmitter will that work????
 
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i answered my self , i dont have a phantom without gimbal but i will take out my p3p tomorrow its on fw 1.7.6 with rc on 1.6 and will fly iy without the go

app , but i had no patience for tomorrow i charged a battery to 70% and tested it on rc no app 400 yards distance 300 yards up no problem, no limits, i suppose radio will work flawlessly to its full range.p3p on fw 1.7.6 rc 1.6
 
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I believe "residue" most times is used to balance the motors, so be sure before removing
i didnot mean i will remove the residue i wii remove the motor i feel it is just burnt!!! i own 3 phantoms and tons of brushless motors though not dji but only the shorted ones show this residue
 
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now i just bought a broken p3p the gimbal is devastated i will check its operation later on but the main board armed and motors spinned on atti now i intend to put this working board on my already working gimbal i started this thread fixing it, the gimbal is on fw 1.10.90 , but i have no idea of the fw on the broken phantom i bought ????? how to proceed to match the fw of gimbal with that of aircraft??
 
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so here is my current situation, i have a working phantom3 pro but with broken gimbal and the ofdm module camera port is torn even the solder pads have disengaged the port. now the transmitter gl300A showed firmware 1.9.2 i dont like this thing even if idont know the firmware on aircraft but transmitter firmware shows that the aircraft maybe on 1.11.20( iwill try to solve that latter ) now i have another phantom3 pro with esc status error but with working gimbal the firmware on this aircraft is 1.10.9 so i decided to put the working gimbal on working p3p board of first craft now the trouble is the ofdm module can i use the one i have on first air craft?? what if the firmwares mismatch
 
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so i intend to replace the lower that has the camera port destroyed with the upper one,, are they the same on all p3p what about if firmwares are different
 

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as i opened the shell of the p3p that is displaying esc error status (as i said earlier i decided to put the main board of other p3p with broken gimbal to this shell keeping working gimbal), i came to the real problem on this p3p i have been working on for two months ! two of 3 main capacitors are off board!! i was very surprized how tiny are the screwports that connect the main board to body upon any tiny crash they may become broken!! the flight controller will then experience a lot of vibrations!!!???
any way back to my work now i have better choices hopefully i will try to fix the capacitors onboard of the p3p with esc error status and will replace the ofdm and gombal on other and finally get to two working p3ps instead of 1 :) :)
 
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first let me post a pic for p3p board with esc error ,
 

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my big problem is that the pads are not there to resolder the capacitor but it seems i can connect the capacitor by solder to next smd what do you say??? the - port of capacitor is ok i will resolder it and for the destroyed pad on the + side of capacitori will solder to first next smd the yellow and red lines show in pic below show what i mean.
 

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i couldnot uderstand or find a scketch to help me know if i should solder the positive of capacitor to smd next to it (it seems a resistor )to the side i indicated in above pic or to the other side
 
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Before you short anything, make sure to check with a multimeter (diode mode) whether it's really a power line.

For schematics/descriptions, all we have is here:
O-Gs Wiki: DJI Hardware - Phantom 3 pro/adv
i opened another working phantom3 i have confirmed my assumption was correct the + of capacitor that was unplugged from board has its continuity as in figure to the smd side indicated by red and yellow lines i added to pic.
 

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i checked the link schematics none states any detail on that part of circuit:disappointed:
 
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there is a port on the left side of board next to main -+ power ports that looks same to that of capacitor but is left empty?! it is spared for what couldnt it be for a fix if another one is ripped?! i indicated it in red arrow in pic below
 

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Yeah, I think you can fill this one instead.
actually there are two un used such ports to the left of board one in front and one in back (indicated in red arrows in pic below) if i fill one it will compensate and fix the broken one, this is a very important tip in phantom 3 fix,it bseems a lot of crashes may cause that capacitor to rip off . i suppose since one is in front and one in back i will use the front one its on side of broken capacitor connection
 

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thanks to all who helped me and especially quaddamage,cashmak diver and oso and all... the resolder of the two capacitors did its magical fix, no more allert beeps on p3p start up the aircraft armed:):) no esc error status any more, i will proceed slowly testing its flite performance before feeling safe to fly it .
now i will proceed fixing the other p3p :cool:i bought it for replacement parts but since i have the experience i will start again from gimbal checking and replace the gimbal rebon and the ofdm (i have one in reserve )...
 
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