P4 Roter Motor Replacement

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Hi. Does anyone know if replacing the prop motors on P4 uses same, simple procedure as its predecessors or is it more complicated? I've had good luck, never had to open mine or done any mods to it. This morning I had an 'incident'. Overall bird is fine but one motor seems to lag a bit. I'll spend the 20 bucks to replace the possibly damaged motor rather than chance a crash due to motor failing at high altitude. On my way into work now - wanted some feedback whether I ought to order the replacement motor (s) or send bird out for professional repair? Thanks.
 
Once you get past opening the shell it's a matter of soldering 3 wires.

If you're confident about these two things than you'll be fine.

The P4 will generally tell you if you have a motor/ESC problem so if there is no physical damage visible, if it still starts-up and flies OK, and the motors are all of a similar temperature post-flight, you may not need to do anything.
 
Thanks. Is the shell on P4 more of a challenge than the other versions, special tools or skill needed? If not I'll order motors right away; hopefully receive them tomorrow. I've worked on and modded: P2 Vision, P2 Vision +, P3 Pro; all those pretty much identical. P4 indicators are good and bird flies. Motor in question has some abrasions. When shut down there's noticable difference in slowdown rate from the other props. Was just before work so I didn't have much time, just did a few quick checks before heading in. Gimble is perfectly intact but now has a slight slant to one side. Tried recalibration: 1st time 9% and failed. 2nd try 72% and failed. I'll retry recal again after work. Pretty amazing what happed: Was in Active Track following me on skateboard and bird perfectly pinned its top against a guide wire - exactly in center of canopy - couldnt repeat this in a million tries! Bird tried to elevate but was held in place. I ran for controller but before I got it sensors recognized motors overheating and cut off, bird dropped about 20'. Thanks again, please let me know about removing shell.
 
I noticed on views of the P4 internals, the motor wire runs down the length of the arm to the circuit board. When I replace my motors I will splice them in the arm instead of trying to solder to circuit board, there's plenty of room to do this.


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