P4 Range?

[GadgetGuy]

ItElite currently holds the record for long range.

Also, FPVLR does not sell Sunhans anymore.

Actually, the screenshot in the video shows that, on the date it was uploaded, there were two other long distance records that beat it. Using a Matrice is hardly relevant to the P4. Lastly, this is the photo of the current FPVLR P4 transmitter mod. Those sure look like Sunhans boosters to me!

 

[GadgetGuy]

I did a little over two miles in a congested area with the ItElite + Amplifiers. I definitely could have went further, but I didn't want to push my luck as I had strong wind going against me on my return flight. See attached picture and notice how quick I got out to 2+ miles haha! Was averaging 50mph.

In a "congested area", the FPVLR v2 setup with 3.0W Sunhans boosters, using a W323 P3P, easily covers 5 miles. I have never needed to go farther.

 

[JakeMaxxUAV]

In a "congested area", the FPVLR v2 setup with 3.0W Sunhans boosters, using a W323 P3P, easily covers 5 miles. I have never needed to go farther.

ItElite vs FPVLR will always be a pissing match. This topic has been beaten to death. I also own a FPVLR and they are very well made and are more than capable long range antennas. It's just personal preference. Someone asked for results in a congested area, and I shared my results. It would have went further. However, to simply say a FPLVR will easily cover 5 miles in a congested area is a bit premature. It always depends on your surroundings and radio interference. Case in point, buy what you like!

 

[Davphys]

How about in an urban area - not just congested, not suburban, but flat out, big city?

In a "congested area", the FPVLR v2 setup with 3.0W Sunhans boosters, using a W323 P3P, easily covers 5 miles. I have never needed to go farther.

 

[Davphys]

I wonder if Tony will ever be able to make a set up that looks clean, and not a wirey time bomb mess with two eggbeaters sticking out of the top.

I'm wondering if you have a bird-side antenna mod on that as well...

 

[LuvMyTJ]

The FAA is probably putting the squeeze on UAV manufacturers to lower the power. That would be my guess.

Since DBS goes as far as the FPLVR you may as well save some money and go for the DBS and avoid all the franken-mess that the other one gets you, thats my opinion.

 

[Davphys]

I agree. The FPVLR does look like a Frankenmess.

The FAA is probably putting the squeeze on UAV manufacturers to lower the power. That would be my guess.

Since DBS goes as far as the FPLVR you may as well save some money and go for the DBS and avoid all the franken-mess that the other one gets you, thats my opinion.

 

[dirkclod]

The FAA is probably putting the squeeze on UAV manufacturers to lower the power. That would be my guess.

Since DBS goes as far as the FPLVR you may as well save some money and go for the DBS and avoid all the franken-mess that the other one gets you, thats my opinion.

+1 and have had both . Is easier to transport and have them on both of mine

 

[solsystem]

Since I have the Sunhan amps already, would it be to my advantage to just replace the video amp with the newer 4 watt amp, or is it more desirable to replace both amps? Thanks

 

[solsystem]

The last 2 days I have taken my new P4 out for range testing. Previously with my older P3A with the "B" controller and using a simple windsurfer I was able to get close to 16, 000 before turning around. With my P4, I was able to get approx 8600 feet (no windsurfer) two days ago, but I turned around because of the new battery. Today I flew the same route with the windsurfer and made it to 8600 feet again, but this time I lost both video and control signal. For a number of seconds I sat there not knowing what to do, because both signal strength indicators were completely gone. After another few seconds, the RTH kicked in and I was on my way back. This is the first time I have ever had the RTH kick in when flying! Not sure what to do, either I can pair the new P4 with my FPVLR modded "B"controller, or possibly return it.....?

 

[rich146]

I have to say I was not impressed with the range. Back in 1.1.9 days with P3P, I had 5 bars at 4.01 miles at low altitude with just a little windsurfer (Taco RC). Lately on the 1.6 firmware it's not as good but I can still go over 3 miles at a good quiet location.

With the P4, it was stuttering and having trouble between 2000'-3000' with no windsurfer. With the windsurfer I went to just over 6000' but lost signal bad enough to trigger RTH briefly. I've flown my P3 at the same place a ton of times and it never glitches - even at double that distance.

The P4 was without the 32 channel hack, on the 4Mbps quality setting. I'll play around with it some more but my first impression is that it is no where near as good as the P3P. :-(

That's great! I've just purchased an open box P3P from maplins UK and it's a 1.1.9 fw ( W323 Phantom & GL300b RC ) so new craft with older & greater range


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[GadgetGuy]

Since I have the Sunhan amps already, would it be to my advantage to just replace the video amp with the newer 4 watt amp, or is it more desirable to replace both amps? Thanks

I just ordered two of his 4 watt OEM amps, as the whole point of them over the Sunhans amps is the improved video, due to less interference between the two amps, as I understand his post.

 

[GadgetGuy]

That's great! I've just purchased an open box P3P from maplins UK and it's a 1.1.9 fw ( W323 Phantom & GL300b RC ) so new craft with older & greater range


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Absolutely!

 

[GadgetGuy]

The last 2 days I have taken my new P4 out for range testing. Previously with my older P3A with the "B" controller and using a simple windsurfer I was able to get close to 16, 000 before turning around. With my P4, I was able to get approx 8600 feet (no windsurfer) two days ago, but I turned around because of the new battery. Today I flew the same route with the windsurfer and made it to 8600 feet again, but this time I lost both video and control signal. For a number of seconds I sat there not knowing what to do, because both signal strength indicators were completely gone. After another few seconds, the RTH kicked in and I was on my way back. This is the first time I have ever had the RTH kick in when flying! Not sure what to do, either I can pair the new P4 with my FPVLR modded "B"controller, or possibly return it.....?

Pair it with the FPVLR. I easily got over 3 miles as soon as I did, but my flight time to 12% battery was sadly limited to under 15 minutes on the P4 battery, instead of the 26+ minutes I get when paired with my P3P with a battery mod. P4 seriously needs a battery mod, and an FPVLR modded RC. Smoke 'em if you got 'em!

 

[rich146]

Absolutely!

I did update the RC firmware to the latest but hopefully this won't change any of the old performance ?


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[GadgetGuy]

I did update the RC firmware to the latest but hopefully this won't change any of the old performance ?


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Unclear. I have not updated my FPVLR modded RC, just in case. I also really don't want to remove the CSC command functionality in flight. The new one is too hard to remember in a panic! The CSC already saved one P3P during early firmware bugs when it flew the wild hook up and to the left, and was ready to cartwheel off the roof, to concrete 30 feet below, with the props still spinning, after striking the edge of a roofdeck. CSC stopped it instantly 6 feet from the edge.

 

[Mad_angler1]

Rite

The original P3 has a small increase in power over later models and the P4 however we are talking small numbers here, none of these will equate to a massive affect on range

Another thing people have not taken into account is the way these tests are performed for the FCC filings, these are done in strict lab conditions with a specific engineering mode that both the craft and controller are put into so they provide maximum output , in the real world the output is dynamic and changes with constant adjustment based on feedback, your craft or controller is not outputting max power continually .

People think that a reduced power output means half the range bit it's just not that simple, this is not analogue 5.8 radio and many many things affect digital transmission, you would need to measure CNR,BER among a load of other things to get a true reflection of the actual data stream state.

These small changes in output would not cause the differences In range people are seeing, output power is a tiny factor in digital transmissions, regularly digital systems have far lower power output over analogue.

Another thing is In CE we output much less power than FCC areas and can still get well over 2 miles, These FCC power outputs are for FCC regions only, in CE we always have had a far reduced output and have not had issues, hell Iv gone 3 miles on 16dbi.

None of the changes in output DJI have done would result in a massive drop in range, it's environmental and craft specific, the new body shape of the P4 could be having an affect compared to the P3.

If your in a CE region no matter the model your limited to 16-17dbi.

The small change in FCC output is not going to equate to a massive drop in range.


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[AlaskaPhantom]

Circular polarization is far more powerful. Consider the FPVLR v2 with 3.0A boosters

http://www.amazon.com/Phantom-Standard-ULTIMATE-Video-Range/dp/B015RTB9DU

Is that the kit you are talking about? I am looking for the best to get for my p4. If you know of a better kit or a better price els were could you please post a link?

 

[GadgetGuy]

Circular polarization is far more powerful. Consider the FPVLR v2 with 3.0A boosters

Amazon.com: DJI Phantom 3 Standard/4K ULTIMATE FPV/ Video Range Kit: Camera & Photo

Is that the kit you are talking about? I am looking for the best to get for my p4. If you know of a better kit or a better price els were could you please post a link?

Get the newest 4.0 Watt version instead, with compatible 4W OEM boosters to minimize interference with video reception, directly from FPVLR.com. I just ordered the upgraded 4W OEM boosters for myself, to replace my original Sunhans versions.

 

[GadgetGuy]

Rite

The original P3 has a small increase in power over later models and the P4 however we are talking small numbers here, none of these will equate to a massive affect on range

Another thing people have not taken into account is the way these tests are performed for the FCC filings, these are done in strict lab conditions with a specific engineering mode that both the craft and controller are put into so they provide maximum output , in the real world the output is dynamic and changes with constant adjustment based on feedback, your craft or controller is not outputting max power continually .

People think that a reduced power output means half the range bit it's just not that simple, this is not analogue 5.8 radio and many many things affect digital transmission, you would need to measure CNR,BER among a load of other things to get a true reflection of the actual data stream state.

These small changes in output would not cause the differences In range people are seeing, output power is a tiny factor in digital transmissions, regularly digital systems have far lower power output over analogue.

Another thing is In CE we output much less power than FCC areas and can still get well over 2 miles, These FCC power outputs are for FCC regions only, in CE we always have had a far reduced output and have not had issues, hell Iv gone 3 miles on 16dbi.

None of the changes in output DJI have done would result in a massive drop in range, it's environmental and craft specific, the new body shape of the P4 could be having an affect compared to the P3.

If your in a CE region no matter the model your limited to 16-17dbi.

The small change in FCC output is not going to equate to a massive drop in range.


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I've heard this all before, and while it may seem insignificant, and at under a mile it is, at long range, in the 3-5 mile distance, the differences in FPV stability that correspond with the changes in power output are significant. So far, no one can otherwise explain the range differences. The degradation in FPV range distances from the W323 P3P to the W323A P3P corresponded with the 18% reduction in video power from the W323 to the W323A. All I know is that the FCC ID# power outputs directly correspond with the relative ranges for control and FPV. Whether anything else changed with them, that otherwise explains the range changes remains to be seen, but they are an accurate predictor of all my real world tests over the last 10 months with five different P3P's and one P4 so far. I have had four W323's and two W323A's and 1 WM330A, and have three GL300A controllers, one GL300B controller, and one GL300C controller. The W323 with the GL300A is by far the best.
The P4 WM330A with the GL300C is by far the worst, and the P4 WM330A has 20% less video power than the W323 P3P, and the GL300C has 20% less control power than the GL300A. Draw your own conclusions, but those are my results.