ND filtered camera setting chart?

[DOC 1500]

Hey gang, I'm new here, very new to drones, and high-quality camera settings.
Well here's my question, has anybody ever compiled a chart of still and video camera settings on a P4P when using the polar Pro ND 8, 16 and 32 Cinema series filters?
I know there's a lot of variables concerning sunny day ,cloudy day , partly cloudy day.
I was just hoping maybe somebody compiled a list of their best settings using those filters. Any help is appreciated.
And Merry Christmas to everybody.

 

[JarrodF]

I think it may be over thinking it to shoot charts for this. The goal (for video) is to get to that sweet spot on the camera lens (f4.5 or so). Just use the ND that gets you there. For example, for me here in North Texas on a sunny day it's generally the ND16 that works best in full sun. If it's cloudy, early morning or near sunset then I lower it to ND8 or use none at all depending on the light level. If you're on the beach, desert, snow or shooting white things (buildings, etc) then you would probably need to use the ND32.

 

[DOC 1500]

I think it may be over thinking it to shoot charts for this. The goal (for video) is to get to that sweet spot on the camera lens (f4.5 or so). Just use the ND that gets you there. For example, for me here in North Texas on a sunny day it's generally the ND16 that works best in full sun. If it's cloudy, early morning or near sunset then I lower it to ND8 or use none at all depending on the light level. If you're on the beach, desert, snow or shooting white things (buildings, etc) then you would probably need to use the ND32.

Thanks for the reply Jarrod, as far as cameras I've always been a point and shoot camera guy never setting anything other than sunny day , cloudy day. Just thought maybe somebody had taken the time to write down some numbers of their favorite settings
From some of the threads I've read, I wrote down some settings. One of my problems is I don't have a decent graphics card on my computer and it's having a hard time reading the 4K videos, maybe I should switch to 2K, until I get a decent computer with good graphics and good video editing.

 

[JarrodF]

I totally understand. Personally I think it's best to shoot 4K (well actually UHD) even if you end up converting to 1080 to edit. That gives you better information to work with during color correction and also the ability to punch in to a tighter framing as necessary when editing HD. That's assuming your goal is to edit your videos. If you are just shooting as a hobby and won't be doing much post work then shooting 1080 is perfectly fine. Also, keep in mind most editing software offers the option of using lower resolution "proxies" while editing and that can make it a smoother process when handling 4K.

 

[African wildlife]

DOC 1500: It’s actually really simple. And you can easily learn.

Change white balance from “auto” to either “sunny” or “cloudy”.

Change video setting from “auto” to “manual”.

Decide what fps you’re going to use. 24fps is the industry standard, but you’ve got other options such as 30 or 60.

Then set the shutter speed to double that of your chosen fps - so 1/50th if it’s 24fps, 1/60th if it’s 30fps, or 1/120th if 60fps.

And your ISO should be 100.

When you’re in the air, adjust the aperture so you get the correct exposure.

It’s very simple - easier than, or as easy as, flying a drone. Point and shoot cameras have just made you ignore camera settings until now. Trust me, it isn’t rocket science and once you’ve done it you’ll be “flying high”.

Merry Christmas from a remote part of South Africa.

 

[DOC 1500]

DOC 1500: It’s actually really simple. And you can easily learn.

Change white balance from “auto” to either “sunny” or “cloudy”.

Change video setting from “auto” to “manual”.

Decide what fps you’re going to use. 24fps is the industry standard, but you’ve got other options such as 30 or 60.

Then set the shutter speed to double that of your chosen fps - so 1/50th if it’s 24fps, 1/60th if it’s 30fps, or 1/120th if 60fps.

And your ISO should be 100.

When you’re in the air, adjust the aperture so you get the correct exposure.

It’s very simple - easier than, or as easy as, flying a drone. Point and shoot cameras have just made you ignore camera settings until now. Trust me, it isn’t rocket science and once you’ve done it you’ll be “flying high”.

Merry Christmas from a remote part of South Africa.

AW , thank you for that reply that makes it a lot easier for camera dummies like me. I know there's a lot more to it when getting into professional editing, but I'm far from that right now.
Going to start studying for my FAA license after the first of the year and maybe start a little side business, if I have to I'll find somebody that does video editing and let them get their piece of the pie from the client as part of a package.
A Blessed and Merry Christmas to you.
'Geseënde Kersfees' , or 'UKhisimusi omuhle', or
Le be le keresemese e monate' , or'Krismesi emnandi'.

 

[turfstuf]

The learning is limitless.

Nd 32 on the beach
Nd 16 in bright afternoon sun.
Nd 4 in bright afternoon shade.
ISO 100
Shutter speed 1/100

Personally, I don’t see much difference in sharpness at f/2 vs f/11. If the display shows flashing zebra stripes and won’t go away at f/11 then use a darker nd filter.

Those aren’t rules. If you don’t plan to edit, just use the auto settings and find really interesting things to shoot. Learn to fly well first. The only thing a boring, well-exposed video shows is that you should have known better.

 

[DOC 1500]

I ordered the polar Pro 3 pack 8,16, 32 nd should arrive Tuesday. Excited to see what the pictures look like