How could I have better setting for sunset videos?

[Aussie Mark]

I flew my P3S at sunset over our sports complex. I used ISO 200 at 240. How could I have improved this video?

 

[K Henry]

I flew my P3S at sunset over our sports complex. I used ISO 200 at 240. How could I have improved this video?

As a photographer, I can tell you that using the MANUAL option and you need to constanty adjust for the light you want for each image...but thay's for still shots. Same for video as the ligjt changes so quickly, but difficult to master while flying.
Hope this helped a little

 

[Macfawlty]

Most compositions have a foreground, middle and background. Your foreground is unfortunately, very distracting and takes away from the sunset. Do you have a set of 16/32/64 ND filters? When you're taking video of a sunset, typically you have to sacrifice exposure of any foreground/middle ground elements, so use them as silhouettes. Get close to a nice big tree and you'll see the sunset through the branches as you rise up or dolly slide and the branches will distract from undesirable middle ground elements. You should always be in manual camera/video mode when shooting video especially. Set your WB, ISO as low as possible, get your shutter down to 1/25 or 1/30 (with your ND filters). It's impossible to edit and color grade video when everything is changing constantly. IMPOSSIBLE.

If you want to shoot the sports complex, do that during the day, but the sports complex and sunset don't complement each other.

 

[With The Birds]

As a photographer, I can tell you that using the MANUAL option and you need to constanty adjust for the light you want for each image...but thay's for still shots. Same for video as the ligjt changes so quickly, but difficult to master while flying.
Hope this helped a little

Absolutely agree that managing exposure manually for video presents significant challenges however changing the exposure during the take is probably not a good idea if you can avoid it. You are likely to get a better outcome if you set the exposure for the brightest part of the scene in the proposed take (expose to the right of the histogram to squeeze out the most DR you can). Imagine flying out from under a tree canopy into an open area or a reveal shot flying around or over a headland or crest of a hill into a more brightly lit scene. Adjusting for an average exposure through the take will loose the impact and beauty of the changing light quality.

 

[Macfawlty]

What I've experienced is that I do often have to change exposure and ISO during the course of my flight. I try not to do it in the middle of a move, but I never want the camera to make decisions on ISO, shutter speed and exposure. Blown hilights are difficult to recover, but crushed shadows with these cameras also break down in post production, getting blocky/pixelated. Make sure to change your camera preferences to -2 or -3 for sharpness, contrast and saturation. Better to add in those elements in post.

 

[ussvertigo]

I normally only have a small portion of sky if at all when filming, but when capturing nice sky or sunset then go opposite and have as little land foreground as possible and mostly sky, makes it easier to adjust camera settings, I use 100 iso and adjust frame rate of sky before starting record, rest is post work, l never use auto. Changing from light to dark or vice versa you can film it twice(or several times for a bigger pool to draw from) one set for sky exposure, and another set for the darker scene, then splice them at the best transition point