Homemade dipole antennas for 2.4ghz

While waiting impatiently for bits to arrive to build the dipoles, I dug out some 2.4ghz antenna's I have on hand - in the image attached.

Do the two antenna on the craft have to be the same - or will this wreck the video transmitter?
I'm thinking I could use a short one for wider close coverage and a longer one for narrower longer range - both hung vertical (pointing down).
I have a DBS Itelite antenna on my controller.

I'm not interested in range, just improving my signal out to 6-700m more for safety.
From reading the posts here, these antenna's pictured aren't and ideal match with the DBS.

Just a though - it may be a silly one - or perhaps genius?

It wouldn't hurt to use 2 different antennas.... just don't ever start it up with nothing on there.

I will note though that I did try a few WiFi router antennas and as odd as it sounds, the 2 dbi ones perform best. As a matter of fact, I tried some 6 dbi ones today for fun and range was terrible.

The 2 dbi router antennas, like this:

s-l500.jpg


Are about the closest thing you'll find to match the DIY dipoles. I tore one apart and the elements seem a tad short at only 26mm. On the DIY dipoles, they are 29mm.
 
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It wouldn't hurt to use 2 different antennas.... just don't ever start it up with nothing on there.

I will note though that I did try a few WiFi router antennas and as odd as it sounds, the 2 dbi ones perform best. As a matter of fact, I tried some 6 dbi ones today for fun and range was terrible.

The 2 dbi router antennas, like this:

View attachment 77379

Are about the closest thing you'll find to match the DIY dipoles. I tore one apart and the elements seem a tad short at only 26mm. On the DIY dipoles, they are 29mm.


Thanks Matts175, I only have one of those, the other is too long for the landing skids to point straight down.
I discovered the Walkera 2.4 ones have the wrong connector - and I don't have the correct adaptor :(
 
First test fly today with router antennas, video was fautless compared to intermittent dropouts even close in before with standard birdside antenna's and DBS Itelite on controller. Only flew just over 500ft out due to location and not wanting to push things too much on first test after rebuilding. Thanks for the help and idea's here, much appreciated :)

P3S fly1.jpg
 
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That flat black shell looks great!!!
Thanks. Seems as I had to put a new shell on it I thought why not - easier to spot against clouds. Was going to do the legs too but I like it B&W and they would scratch easier.
Unfortunately they sent me the weaker V1 shell, so I reinforced the motor mounts with epoxy inside and have some aluminum reinforcement plates for underneath on the way.
 
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made it to 4400 feet but lost video and had to return, wind was probably 25-30 MPH

HealthyDrones.com - Innovative flight data analysis that matters
By looking at that Health Drones flight data not sure why you lost video, as your signal map is very good and your signal score was 100%. Normally when you lose your FPV image it shows right there in those numbers. Unless it was just your device acting up.
 
Yes...lol...i needed to fly!! You'll notice the crooked line fighting the wind!

Sent from my LG-K450 using PhantomPilots mobile app
If you want to pay the extra $3. a month with them you get much more storage of your flight data logs and also the wind speeds, which is cool.
 
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I noticed my video now has jello - anyone else noticed any?
I ran the front cable through the body, I think this may be the cause, the cable's thicker.
The back one was touching the body - fixed that.
I'm going to try heavier dampers next flight to see if that helps, otherwise I'll have to rip the top off again o_O
 
I noticed my video now has jello - anyone else noticed any?
I ran the front cable through the body, I think this may be the cause, the cable's thicker.
The back one was touching the body - fixed that.
I'm going to try heavier dampers next flight to see if that helps, otherwise I'll have to rip the top off again o_O
Other things to check, gimbal calibration, IMU calibration, prop balancing and changing drop pins for loose-fitting nylon ties.

Sent from my HTC 10 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
By looking at that Health Drones flight data not sure why you lost video, as your signal map is very good and your signal score was 100%. Normally when you lose your FPV image it shows right there in those numbers. Unless it was just your device acting up.

So do you think it is the remote or the phone? After this flight I took it out again and lost video at 1200ft, I tried to shut down DJI Go and reboot, but the video never came back. I didn't know which switch on the remote was RTH so i just flew it backwards until i could see it :)
 
So do you think it is the remote or the phone? After this flight I took it out again and lost video at 1200ft, I tried to shut down DJI Go and reboot, but the video never came back. I didn't know which switch on the remote was RTH so i just flew it backwards until i could see it :)
RTH is the S2 switch, left side. Toggle it full strokes two or three times and the remote will start beeping to confirm.

Sent from my HTC 10 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
So do you think it is the remote or the phone? After this flight I took it out again and lost video at 1200ft, I tried to shut down DJI Go and reboot, but the video never came back. I didn't know which switch on the remote was RTH so i just flew it backwards until i could see it :)
When you say the video went out was your telemetry still working such as your map and / or radar icon?

Sent from my HTC 10 using PhantomPilots mobile app
 
Other things to check, gimbal calibration, IMU calibration, prop balancing and changing drop pins for loose-fitting nylon ties.

Thanks for the tips.
I'm using the same near new props as before mod when it was fine.
I had already replaced the drop pins with loose cable ties when I rebuilt :)

The heavier weight dampers really helped improve things - but jello still there,
so I took the lid off and moved the front cable outside the craft - helped even more - barely noticeable now unless you really look for it and varies on flying style.
There did seem to be some downward pressure from the wire on the gimbal though the wire was not tight.
I think vibrations from the body are transferring down the thicker wire.

Will try a gimbal and IMU calibration before next flight.

If you do this mod and value video quality, I would recommend leaving the wires outside the body with no tension on them.
 
IMG_0576.JPG
This is what I did useing the antennas from the DJI controller after installing the DBS itelight antenna.
 
Take your ohm meter and touch it from here to here. That should read ZERO or very close to ZERO. (see first picture)

Then, from here to here. Again. Zero ohms. or close to zero. (see 2nd pic)

Then finally from here to here. Now for this.... you want to see infinity. This one is the most important!!!
If you see anything else. There is a short. (pic #3)
Was looking over this post because I wanted to check out the repair I did to my broken dipole. When I got the complete opposite results, not only on the repaired one but also on all my other dipoles. They all had continuity at all points checked, no zero ohms. Come to realize the dipole you made was a "simple dipole" and the one we started talking about in the other thread (the $50 one) was a Bazooka dipole antenna. Wired completely differently, something like this.
doublebaz.GIF
 
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