aquabluedreams said:
Thanks for the input. IrishSights you mention having to "balance the H3-3D gimble" how did you do that...
The beauty of this hobby is the pleasure of trial and error and innovating. Here is my method of balancing the gimbel as result of adding the polarising filter - works for me.
COMPONENTS
* A rubber teat from the top of a baby milk feeding bottle
* The core of a spent 'biro' type pen, cut to size
* A small 3/8" (approx) square piece of lead for a counter weight with a hole in the middle
* The preverbial duct tape
* Small cable tie
The rubber teat gives a nice grip on the end of the gimbel. The photos explains the rest. Before I fitted the cable tie I slid the lead piece (and trimmed it a bit) up and down the pen core and also rotated the rubber teat on the gimbel end to get the optimun balance of the gopro+ lens in all positions. You can also slide the pen core up and down through the rubber teat. Trial and error. If balanced well the gimbel should stay (more or less) in the position you manually put it in - when not activated of course. When the gibel is activated if the gimbel motors are making a louder than normal noise or the 'hibernation' mode kicks in then its not balanced correctly. As weight distribution can be varied in all the necessary axis using this method, no other counter weights were needed. I used lead as the counterweight as I did not want to induce any potential magnetic interference with the compass and its a lot of weight for its size.
Works well for me over many flights now. Only slight problem is in strong winds or sharp movements where the counterweight, the very odd time, touches the leg. Minor re-positioning of the counterweight assembly minimised the problem. As it is video I have my P2 for I never do any sharp movements or acceleration anyway.
I will have to probably re-balance it when my new 5.4mm flat field/no fisheye lens arrives any day now!
Others may innovate differently!