ESC Error - P3P

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hi, I have p3p and after checking several times, I do not know why this hardware or software error is due. When I take lid off or loosen and tighten the screws, sometimes motors start. and after changing the battery get ESC err again.
Also one of the engines sounds. And I have already replaced two engines for dealing with obstacles. After switching the engines, he flew for 4 months.
sorry, i cant speak eng well.
 

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When I take lid off or loosen and tighten the screws, sometimes motors start. and after changing the battery get ESC err again.

This is a clear signal - you have a bad solder point somewhere. Probably due to shock, the solder broke and now it conducts only when the pressure on the board is correct.

You need to find the problematic solder point and re-solder (re-flow) it.

To find out which ESC is the problem, you need to share .DAT log; the .txt log you provided is not enough.
 
hi, I have p3p and after checking several times, I do not know why this hardware or software error is due. When I take lid off or loosen and tighten the screws, sometimes motors start. and after changing the battery get ESC err again.
Also one of the engines sounds. And I have already replaced two engines for dealing with obstacles. After switching the engines, he flew for 4 months.
sorry, i cant speak eng well.
If the info you're looking for exists in the eventLog stream it will be earlier than what you've specified. Do this to get that part of the eventLog stream
upload_2017-11-22_6-20-54.png


The contents of the eventLog stream change with every FW version. The info you're looking for may or may not exist there. As @quaddamage suggests you could Dropbox the .DAT and post a link here so others could take a look.
 
If you ever had propguards on and forgot to switch to the short screws when you took them off, you might have destroyed the motors, and then you will get esc status errors.
 
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If you ever had propguards on and forgot to switch to the short screws when you took them off, you might have destroyed the motors, and then you will get esc status errors.

I will agree with that. The OP did mention about tightening the screws. Only reason for that was prop guards
 
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hi, I have p3p and after checking several times, I do not know why this hardware or software error is due. When I take lid off or loosen and tighten the screws, sometimes motors start. and after changing the battery get ESC err again.
Also one of the engines sounds. And I have already replaced two engines for dealing with obstacles. After switching the engines, he flew for 4 months.
sorry, i cant speak eng well.

Hi Pal, It sounds to me like there is a good chance that you have a "physically damaged Main Board" my reason for saying this (and please understand that it is difficult at best to diagnose a drone problem from only a description) is because you say that you get occasional motor function and they will energize properly! This condition is usually caused by a Physically damaged "CRACK" in the PCB pertaining to the MC board, in these cases what usually happens is a trace or perhaps multiple traces can be broken , or "OPEN" if this is the case I would recommend that you use a pair of "Jewelers eye piece" in which to attach to your glasses, if you do not wear glasses then you can always buy a cheap pair of magnifier glasses in any drug store. I use a special pair of adjustable very high power magnification glasses because I am a Horologist as a hobby, I repair "Repeaters & Musical pocket watches" of course I also work on deep water diving watches as well as all Swiss brand watches. These magnifier glasses are very expensive & it would not be necessary for you to buy anything this sophisticated to work on your drone! Just get your self a good pair of magnifier glasses from any reputable drug store, they come in many different strengths of magnification ranging from 100x up to 400x power multiplication. I would recommend that you make a very close inspection of your MC board, especially around the esc Capacitors, look for burn marks in the board, and smell them to see if they smell burned? If they are this is something that your not likely equipped to repair and in that case I recommend sending it out to a "qualified & reputable repair shop" they will have the proper desoldering tools and experience to replace your caps, if they are in fact "cooked", if on the other hand you just find one or perhaps several cracks in the MC board simply solder jumper wires across the crack in the traces, in other words "bridge them to eliminate the open circuit" I can not tell you how many times I have repaired these kinds of damaged circuit boards,I use 30 Gauge silver plated Pre cut & Pre stripped wire & Kynar insulated. These type of wires are excellent to make these type of PCB trace repairs, they are what bench techs. refer to as being solder friendly, meaning they bond when soldered very fast and very easily! I hope that you own a variable temperature soldering station? These wires are almost as thin as a human hair!, but I love working with them because it's such a down right pleasure!, by the way you will also need a very fine chisel tip for your station & for this kind of dense & delicate work. make sure that you "ohm out any of the bridges that you have put in place, meaning just check for continuity so you confirm that the trace has been successfully repaired. in this scenario I believe that your problem of correcting your drone from not starting will be permanently resolved & don't forget to do a continuity check across all three legs of all 4 motors. . . Yellow, Red,& Black, if any of the 3 legs do not produce continuity then that motor is likely a burned out motor, don't worry about that too much. . . . if your dealing with a P3P or P3A the new 2312A motors are only $18.00 US D, Best Of Luck To You In any Case, Tom.
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P.S. If I can be of any further assistance to you feel free to message me here or here is my email address. . . . . . . [email protected] "Remember Patients is a virtue" , especially when repairing a drone! LOL :)
 
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I will agree with that. The OP did mention about tightening the screws. Only reason for that was prop guards

Hi Neon, I agree with you as well. . . . . I guess you could call us "The mutual admiration pair, LOL"
But just to make a point of reference for new folks to the hobby! I do believe in the use of prop guards even though I don't use them myself. This is because I have been in the rc hobby since I was 12 years old. . . . . and that's a long time ago since I am approaching 65 years of age! when I flew my first drone I did use prop guards, and continued using them for quite some time, let's say until I felt comfortable not using them anymore (when I stopped bumping tree limbs and my own head!! LOL
But as for new pilots I feel they are a must! However it is a Hugh mistake trusting these Chinese companies (and there are so many of them making prop guards!) unless you own a digital caliper or similar device, which to measure the length of the longer screws that they package with their prop guards, I wouldn't trust them! If you believe nothing that I have ever posted here as well as on other forums. . . . you can trust this, they are responsible for more burned out motors as well as motors and esc pcb damage & and esc caps! I am not going to give this advice to anyone. . . . But as a general rule what I do to any one of my students (I do train new young men in the flight skills of a drone) What I do is so simple! I take my dremel with a reaming bit and simply ream out the 4 holes of the shoe that comes with the prop guards.You only need to ream away a very small amount of plastic, and then you can use the original 5MM screws that came with the motors from DJI. They will fit with about 2MM of unused thread when you begin to install them, this is adequate to make a very good & tight fit for the shoes. With no risk of damage to the copper winding's at all. . . . I hope this will be of some benefit to new drone hobbyists, Best Regards, Tom.
 
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