Editing

You'e going to need to spend about $1,000 on a PC (before monitor) and about twice that amount on a Mac if you want to get into editing raw 4k with any kind of smoothness. And you could easily double both those numbers. And that's for basic UHD 4k. If you plan on using a lot of visual effects, transitions, color coding, stabalizers, or if you see your company doing mapping in the future, then you will need to build an even more robust computer. Unless of course you like sitting around and waiting for rendering and exports all the time.

I would recommend minimum the 8gb gtx 1070 for a video card. If you can afford the 1080, do it!
 
I agree with Blessed, I tried working with a lower end system and MovieMaker/Windows, but no 4K and limited features had me hitting the wall pretty quick. Ended up upgrading to a Dell XPS with an I7 Processor and nVidia GTX GPU, cost just over $1000 (no monitor, 7200rpm 1tb drive).

I use Corel Video Studio X10, at about $80 after discounts it’s a pretty decent editor. Not quite as capable as Adobe, but a lot cheaper and far better then the consumer focused products like Vegas, PowerDirector, etc. You will still need to create and use proxy files, as editing true 4K video directly will kill even the fastest PC. Overall however, I have been happy with it.

Here is a recent sample:

 
There are few other questions that you should ask yourself. What are you planning to do with your videos? Are you knowledgeable about video editing? Many editing software programs rely on the GPU for much of the heavy lifting. Financially you will get much more bang for the buck with a Windows Desktop. On top of that, upgrading down the road with more memory better video Card is possible. Most laptops are significantly more difficult to upgrade.
Great advice here.

I have a desktop PC dedicated to editing and rendering of my videos, and I use "Sony Movie Studio Platinum" software to edit. The PC has to have plenty of memory and a GOOD video card to be able to handle this.
 
I tried several different “formats” today and all the same results. Low image quality once converted for dvd or burned directly to dvd. (jagged edges on straight lines for example) My puzzlement is this. A prerecorded dvd looks fine. Why doesn’t my video since the source looks fine at 1080p. I’m no video expert and didn’t even realize regular dvd’s are only 480i/p. But even so, factory dvd’s Look great. I’m trying to get them on a dvd for a friend who lives in assisted living and that’s the only equipment they have. Any ideas are appreciated.

Geo
Geo I am by no means an expert on Video formats codec etc. For the lion share of my video work I use Davinci Resolve Studio and hitfilm pro or aftereffects for compositing. however, I still keep a copy of Cyberlink Poerdirector 15 for when I need a DVD or do subtitles. It has a built in DVD authoring. It produces dvd quality almost equal to professional dvds.

If the assisted living facility has internet access, you can create a you tube channel
 
Any opinions on "Shotcut" for video editing ?
I have downloaded the programme (free) but seem to be having a few crashes/stopages .... mmm, maybe my fault as I am no tech genius - more just a button pusher !
Just wondering what the consensus is ?
 
Geo I am by no means an expert on Video formats codec etc. For the lion share of my video work I use Davinci Resolve Studio and hitfilm pro or aftereffects for compositing. however, I still keep a copy of Cyberlink Poerdirector 15 for when I need a DVD or do subtitles. It has a built in DVD authoring. It produces dvd quality almost equal to professional dvds.

If the assisted living facility has internet access, you can create a you tube channel
Thanks. I have downloaded dozens of YouTube videos for my friend that look reasonably good, considering the YouTube compression and burned them to DVD. I have a channel with all my videos so I may try downloading one for a DVD. I guess my overall question is why a video I take at 1080P which looks great after rendering for my iPad so, H-264 format, but fails terribly on a DVD. Even taking the original MP4 from the drone and converting for DVD looks the same. Jagged lines etc.
If I shot a video at a lower resolution, not sure how low it goes on a P4, would that look the same going to DVD? Is it not possible to convert to lower resolution without major artifacts being introduced?

Geo
 
Thanks. I have downloaded dozens of YouTube videos for my friend that look reasonably good, considering the YouTube compression and burned them to DVD. I have a channel with all my videos so I may try downloading one for a DVD. I guess my overall question is why a video I take at 1080P which looks great after rendering for my iPad so, H-264 format, but fails terribly on a DVD. Even taking the original MP4 from the drone and converting for DVD looks the same. Jagged lines etc.
If I shot a video at a lower resolution, not sure how low it goes on a P4, would that look the same going to DVD? Is it not possible to convert to lower resolution without major artifacts being introduced?

Geo
Ok, I'm not sure how I missed before. DVD's do not support 60fps. transcode to 30fps and you should be good to go.
 
I'm a Windows 10 user leveraging Adobe Premiere Pro CC and AfterEffects for my post production work. My main desktop is a liquid-cooled Alienware Aurora R6 i7-7700K running at 4.2Ghz - 64Gb Ram 512Gb M.2 SSD with 2Tb storage drive and the Nvidia GeForce GTX 1080 Ti with 11 Gb GDDR5. I'm able to edit full rez 4K 60fps without issue this workstation. My field platform is a Dell XPS15 (9560) powered by an i7-7700HQ Quad at 2.8Ghz - 32 Ram 1Tb M.2 SSD and the Nvidia GeForce GTX 1050 with 4 Gb GDDR5 and a 15.6" 4K touchscreen. This lightweight performer allows me to work efficiently and quickly work with encoded footage away from base.
 
This is what works best for me, I have Corel video studio pro10 ultimate, not expensive and easy to use with plenty of options for me. Samsung smart tv only 42" but can play 1080p@30fps (it can't run 60fps). My satelite dish comes in at 720 and the image is real good. I Shoot in 4K , 5400 temp, -1, -1, -1, Dcinelike or none and sometimes vivid when all is dull and render in 1080@30fps in a 3840x2160 frame at 40Mbps and I find the results almost as good as the dish (almost). For my TV I tried shooting in 1080 and it was so so, 2.7 rendered to 1080 big improvement, 4K even better. For editing I got me a lenovo ideapad Y700 (it's a gamer but I don't game, bang for the buck) had this for about a year now and it never crashed (yet) with a 17 inch screen and it can run 4K and looks real good but all my friends and family can't run 4K so I render what I want to share in 1080. If I don't reduce the sharpness..etc to -1 in GO the image on my TV is not very good, it's looks way over sharpened and grainy and the brightness pulses. Reducing to -1,-1,-1 was the major factor and it took several batteries and flying the same path with different settings to get to what works best for me. What got me to this point is from having read other post here and testing out the numbers, most of these numbers come from various other pilots and I thank all the guy's for narrowing down the variables for me.
Corel Studio is great. That’s all I use.
 

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