Dual Battery Mod

Ah That's good news. The GL300A will be coveted lol. Can't wait to get my FPVLR but the temps are keeping me grounded for days... Highs of 20. SUCKS!
yes let me now how your testing goes....with your new set up cheers!!!
 
Also does anyone know if having the DaVinci processor that's in the gl300a also helps with the video processing ? I'm guessing that dji wanted to save money so they stopped using it on the gl300b and newer.
 
Yes I want to but can't seem to get it to work yet...I am not good with the computer thing !!!

<offtopic>

IF using wifi-amps on VIDEO side, please read. It's important to know this to achieve long distance flights with your battery mods. There is a catch with 32ch mod that most of us doesn't fully understand and are getting shitty distances compared to some others.

Sunhans and similar wifi-boosters works on 2.4G-2.5G range and helps a lot when you stay between the range or close.

DJI Channel 1 - 12 = 2.286G - 2.396G (out of range)
DJI Channel 13 - 22 = 2.406G - 2496G (this is where the booster actually works best, you can go few channels lower or higher, after that it does NOT work with full potential)
DJI Channel 23 - 32 = 2.506G - 2.596G (out of range)

If you dont have video-side amps (airside, rc-side, or both) forget everything you just read.

</offtopic>
 
<offtopic>

IF using wifi-amps on VIDEO side, please read. It's important to know this to achieve long distance flights with your battery mods. There is a catch with 32ch mod that most of us doesn't fully understand and are getting shitty distances compared to some others.

Sunhans and similar wifi-boosters works on 2.4G-2.5G range and helps a lot when you stay between the range or close.

DJI Channel 1 - 12 = 2.286G - 2.396G (out of range)
DJI Channel 13 - 22 = 2.406G - 2496G (this is where the booster actually works best, you can go few channels lower or higher, after that it does NOT work with full potential)
DJI Channel 23 - 32 = 2.506G - 2.596G (out of range)

If you dont have video-side amps (airside, rc-side, or both) forget everything you just read.

</offtopic>
I have a P3P aswell as an inspire. I've model the inspire with the fpvlr extreme kit and still get better distances with my P3P. So if I was to put the video signal in auto (ive always kept it on channel 30) it should stick in the 2.4 range and should get better range?
Another question is. The amps have a blue light on it and one of them flicker more than the other. Do you think this has something to do with the channel I've been using?

Cheers

Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk
 
I have a P3P aswell as an inspire. I've model the inspire with the fpvlr extreme kit and still get better distances with my P3P. So if I was to put the video signal in auto (ive always kept it on channel 30) it should stick in the 2.4 range and should get better range?
Another question is. The amps have a blue light on it and one of them flicker more than the other. Do you think this has something to do with the channel I've been using?

Cheers

Sent from my SM-T530 using Tapatalk

I think the one with blinking blue is for the video receiving side, the one that stays blue is for control. Inspire has 5.8ghz videolink so i dont know anything about that. I was able to go ~5km distances with almost every channel (with video-side amp), but when you want to get serious range.. use auto or pick your channel manually and use lowest quality on video transmission. Using channel 30 with amp, is same than using channel 30 without amp, it does not help you at all.

Edited.. Original post was bs.
 
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I think the one with solid blue is for the video receiving side, the one that just blinks sometimes is for control. Inspire has 5.8ghz videolink so i dont know anything about that. I was able to go ~5km distances with almost every channel (with video-side amp), but when you want to get serious range.. use auto or pick your channel manually and use lowest quality on video transmission. Using channel 30 with amp, is same than using channel 30 without amp, it does not help you at all.
I have the dbs itelite antenna and it's solid blue on both amps . Does anyone else have the same thing going on with their dbs?
 
I have the dbs itelite antenna and it's solid blue on both amps . Does anyone else have the same thing going on with their dbs?

Thanks to @LarsR who educated me, if you have powered the p3 too, take the RC and walk away with it, other light will go off. If they are close to each other, it will stay blue also. The one that goes off/blinks, is video side. Not sure do you need to connect tablet/phone for this test, i did.

To stay on topic, i believe many have breaked in the new 1800 and 2400 hyperions hv's by now, what kind of minutes we are looking at? Some had problems with SkyRC D100 li-hv charger and puffed hyperions, is this solved by now? Asking because ordered the same charger and hyperion packs .. should be here next week.

Edited. I got it wrong, solid blue is for control. Just checked.
 
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I think the one with solid blue is for the video receiving side, the one that just blinks sometimes is for control. Inspire has 5.8ghz videolink so i dont know anything about that. I was able to go ~5km distances with almost every channel (with video-side amp), but when you want to get serious range.. use auto or pick your channel manually and use lowest quality on video transmission. Using channel 30 with amp, is same than using channel 30 without amp, it does not help you at all.


Tony and paul shaffer told me that the blinking blue light is 100% for video,
So someone needs to look into this more,
Your thoughts
Thanks Kevin
 
They also told that n1/n4 antennas is for sure video transmission, so i guess it would make sense that they got all wrong.. :confused:


That's correct, i shipped my back too Tony so that he can put my side amp mount on the correct leg,....r u 100% sure about the blue light blinking on the rc side.......
Your thoughts?
Kevin
 
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That's correct, i shipped my back too Tony so that he can put my side amp mount on the correct leg,....r u 100% sure about the blue light blinking on the r side.......
Your thoughts?
Kevin

Well i can double check when i get home, later today.
 
Tony and paul shaffer told me that the blinking blue light is 100% for video,
So someone needs to look into this more,
Your thoughts
Thanks Kevin
If both boosters has blue light its the blinking for video and steady for rc.
 
The blinking is just interferens from the rc antenna or to close to phantom. Just cover rc antenna with your hand and the video amp will stop blinking.
 
I have the dbs itelite antenna and it's solid blue on both amps . Does anyone else have the same thing going on with their dbs?
Yes mine works perfect before the last update I flew 10km one way full bars.with no boosters,now I can't seem to get that 10km bad video.when I first got my boosters I had blue lights on both boosters solid with Fpvlr then one stops working.and bad signal.ues itelite and both boosters work fine.....10km here I come!!!Purchased the new P3A...26 mins and 22,000 meters.......ooooohhh yeah useing my old RC the GL300A big improvement over the GL300C
 
Yes mine works perfect before the last update I flew 10km one way full bars.with no boosters,now I can't seem to get that 10km bad video.when I first got my boosters I had blue lights on both boosters solid with Fpvlr then one stops working.and bad signal.ues itelite and both boosters work fine.....10km here I come!!!Purchased the new P3A...26 mins and 22,000 meters.......ooooohhh yeah useing my old RC the GL300A big improvement over the GL300C
That's great info about the GL300A vs GL300C. Thanks for the comparison. I'm glad I have the gl300a!
 

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