Dual Battery Mod

Marknmd said:
Sounds like you're in the North East....
I haven't flown in nearly a month and I'm getting antsy. I might try it today... high 32, surface winds 6 mph.
If I understand your question, you're asking if you have a dedicated receiving antenna, why put a booster/amp on it?
Putting a booster on a receiving antenna will amplify the signal that it senses. An analogy would be placing a hearing aid in your ear.
Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Thanks it does make sense. I would imagine you're getting a lot of extra noise as well. I haven't seen any posts with people losing video signal with FPVLR so seems it's sufficient. But I understand where there bird-side booster now was well.
 
The way i understood it was both antennas send and receive, one IS for control, one is video. Dbs & fpvlr said it didnt matter which antenna wire you hook up to which controller plug but i've found i cant switch around i get less crosstalk interference with them place on a certain side.
 
dirtybum said:
The way i understood it was both antennas send and receive, one IS for control, one is video. Dbs & fpvlr said it didnt matter which antenna wire you hook up to which controller plug but i've found i cant switch around i get less crosstalk interference with them place on a certain side.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Just when I think I'm getting a good understanding...More and more questions! The P3 transmits video and telemetry data(inc power info). The r/c receives data from the P3 (video and telemetry data(inc. power info) and transmits control commands. Who know's which antenna they are received and transmitted on the r/c...Or is it irrelevant because of the way this data is transmitted? I had always thought I understood it but the more I get into these things, the more questions I have. Gonna have to flip through the manual again and look at FCC documentation...Doubt any of this is documented.
 
dirtybum said:
The way i understood it was both antennas send and receive, one IS for control, one is video. Dbs & fpvlr said it didnt matter which antenna wire you hook up to which controller plug but i've found i cant switch around i get less crosstalk interference with them place on a certain side.
Click to expand...
Yes - that's how my P2V works. It switches back and forth as it constantly tries to find the best signal. I'm not real clear on the Lightbridge thing though
 
There is no GL300C AFAIK yet? Only A or B. I have both and I don't notice a difference but haven't done a side by side test. Has anyone?
 
I have success at last. I was about to go to stock on my p3. But i rewired the amp and ufl to the n3 connector on the light bridge and just like that i was out at 20,000ft np. Now i will have to tidy this thing up. If n2 is video as well
idk why my results were so poor.
 

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Fredz said:
There is no GL300C AFAIK yet? Only A or B. I have both and I don't notice a difference but haven't done a side by side test. Has anyone?
Click to expand...
Well I have the gl300c new bird only rated for 1.25 miles have gone 4/5 km but bad signal app crashes even less distance..I will continue with testing it might have been where I was flying that day but poor RC signal..
 
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Jeremiah Nelson said:
I have success at last. I was about to go to stock on my p3. But i rewired the amp and ufl to the n3 connector on the light bridge and just like that i was out at 20,000ft np. Now i will have to tidy this thing up. If n2 is video as well
idk why my results were so poor.
Click to expand...
What RC do you have the GL 300 a b c I have gone 32,000 feet one way with boosted itelite and the GL300A binded to the new p3A v2..
 
Marknmd said:
Yes - that's how my P2V works. It switches back and forth as it constantly tries to find the best signal. I'm not real clear on the Lightbridge thing though
Click to expand...

I don't think that is true, one sends one receives. Watch this video, fast forward to the 5:40 minute mark

 
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maxwell smart said:
Well I did a test flight ,no improvment in range. ??? I also flew with my aftermarket battery, so far so go.
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So the bird side mod offers no improvement in range.all that work not to mention it does not look like it will fit in a case.well I am very pleased with the itelite boosted I flew 32,000 feet one way good signal all the way.when weather is warmer I will push it I am sure I can go 6000 feet farther.tested battery mod flew over 22km total 25 min flite landing with 20% batt so I am sure I can do 11 km one way.cheers thax for the info fly safe
 
Debating the mod myself here as I have multiple 1300 and 1800 4s packs. They aren't HV though and DJI would like to lead you to believe the P3 battery is. As I have yet to fly due to -38 degree weather I haven't charged my packs and checked what voltage DJI GO states. Is it indeed 4.35 or the usual 4.2v? I've had a hard time trying to use my DMM on the P3 batteries. Probes don't fit the contact to check. If the pack is indeed a HV lipo then standard lipos saddle packs would be a bad idea as the packs would try to equalize voltages due to the parallel connection. Anyone who's torn one of these packs down actually know the true cell voltage/type?
 
Today I am going to test the GL300C RC to see if there is a difference have done antenna mod will be useing itelite boosted.what I have been useing is the GL300A.
 
Silverwingflinx said:
So the bird side mod offers no improvement in range.all that work not to mention it does not look like it will fit in a case.well I am very pleased with the itelite boosted I flew 32,000 feet one way good signal all the way.when weather is warmer I will push it I am sure I can go 6000 feet farther.tested battery mod flew over 22km total 25 min flite landing with 20% batt so I am sure I can do 11 km one way.cheers thax for the info fly safe
Click to expand...
I am sure my range problem is not the mods I have done. I do need to get out in a more open area to do more test. But my range has remains the same with each mod.??
 
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Mugenski said:
Debating the mod myself here as I have multiple 1300 and 1800 4s packs. They aren't HV though and DJI would like to lead you to believe the P3 battery is. As I have yet to fly due to -38 degree weather I haven't charged my packs and checked what voltage DJI GO states. Is it indeed 4.35 or the usual 4.2v? I've had a hard time trying to use my DMM on the P3 batteries. Probes don't fit the contact to check. If the pack is indeed a HV lipo then standard lipos saddle packs would be a bad idea as the packs would try to equalize voltages due to the parallel connection. Anyone who's torn one of these packs down actually know the true cell voltage/type?
Click to expand...
I have a after market battery,[ A P3 clone ] and plane to split the pack and do the 2X 2S battery mod.
 

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