Does anyone sell a "yaw mod" kit?

He may just not be ready. He said he wasn't planning on "announcing" it yet, but then I posted this thread and he must have figured it was a good opportunity to "soft" announce it. Perhaps it's just not ready yet.

Hoping he can make a batch to sell on the forums!
 
I modified the yaw control on my P2 last night using Peter Homer's modification. I mounted the switch in between both sticks and had no need to add extra wiring. Bench tested it and it works but haven't tested in flight as it's -14° outside at the moment. Putting the switch together may look simple to do but it isn't.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSpw_Ar1HZc
 
The mod works like a charm...Here is an example of where I placed to toggle. It looks factory. BTW I used speaker wire not yellow and black wires and it still worked.

 
Biggunzz said:
The mod works like a charm...Here is an example of where I placed to toggle. It looks factory. BTW I used speaker wire not yellow and black wires and it still worked.

Putting mine in the center between the two sticks I didn't need any extra wire. Tested mine and it also worked great.
 
jason said:
Biggunzz said:
The mod works like a charm...Here is an example of where I placed to toggle. It looks factory. BTW I used speaker wire not yellow and black wires and it still worked.

Putting mine in the center between the two sticks I didn't need any extra wire. Tested mine and it also worked great.

Does any of yours have bias? When the yaw slow is enabled, I have one side that is -34. Its no big fuss, except it yaws faster in one direction than the other. However, when I disable slow yaw, the readings are all normal and balanced. I tried changing resistors and I believe it could be the switch.

I also place mine in the middle in a vertical position. So it makes my brain say "S1, S2 and Yaw = up position to start motors".

And also just a note for any who get caught in a phantom spin because of a faulty switch or bad soldering, it places the phantom in a permanent spin. And this makes it impossible to fly. You have 2 options.
1. Turn off controller and force RTH and hope you have a home position locked.
2. Flick on CL or HL and manoeuvre over grass lower the phantom and do control crash. It may be spinning but with CL/HL the direction of the phantoms nose is ignored.
 
dptcalvin said:
Also interested in an update, Steve! Even with more stick time, I can't get a slow, steady, smooth pan. And I'm too much of a wuss and noob to DIY. I can plug and play with no problems, though. :D
I haven't forgotten the post - I am waiting for the temperature outside to get above freezing to do some flight tests. It looks good in the RC Assistant.
Part of my delay is deciding on through-hole connectors or surface mount. SMT would be cheaper if I was to order 50 or more (I haven't ever tried doing surface mount soldering), but for smaller quantities, using through-hole connectors and soldering them to the board myself before shipping would be cheaper. I am inclined to go with surface mount because it would be faster to test and deliver.

Also, which would be more useful. A variable yaw rate or a simple switch between slow and normal, or slow-medium-normal? If it is the latter then the kit could be released this spring.
 
Variable yaw would be nice, but slow-med-normal would be great as well.
 
Mako79 said:
Does any of yours have bias? When the yaw slow is enabled, I have one side that is -34. Its no big fuss, except it yaws faster in one direction than the other. However, when I disable slow yaw, the readings are all normal and balanced. I tried changing resistors and I believe it could be the switch.

I also place mine in the middle in a vertical position. So it makes my brain say "S1, S2 and Yaw = up position to start motors".

And also just a note for any who get caught in a phantom spin because of a faulty switch or bad soldering, it places the phantom in a permanent spin. And this makes it impossible to fly. You have 2 options.
1. Turn off controller and force RTH and hope you have a home position locked.
2. Flick on CL or HL and manoeuvre over grass lower the phantom and do control crash. It may be spinning but with CL/HL the direction of the phantoms nose is ignored.

Did you use resistors with a 5% (gold band) and were they a match within that tolerance? Do check your solder connections closely as that switch is small and pins are close together which makes it easy to cause a short between pins.

The slow yaw is the same in both directions. In your case it sound as though those resistors were not a matched pair. Did you use VOM to check the resistors tolerance?
 
SteveMann said:
dptcalvin said:
Also interested in an update, Steve! Even with more stick time, I can't get a slow, steady, smooth pan. And I'm too much of a wuss and noob to DIY. I can plug and play with no problems, though. :D
I haven't forgotten the post - I am waiting for the temperature outside to get above freezing to do some flight tests. It looks good in the RC Assistant.
Part of my delay is deciding on through-hole connectors or surface mount. SMT would be cheaper if I was to order 50 or more (I haven't ever tried doing surface mount soldering), but for smaller quantities, using through-hole connectors and soldering them to the board myself before shipping would be cheaper. I am inclined to go with surface mount because it would be faster to test and deliver.

Also, which would be more useful. A variable yaw rate or a simple switch between slow and normal, or slow-medium-normal? If it is the latter then the kit could be released this spring.

Just to feed back on your last point, I think a variable yaw is great as a development tool (i.e. to experiment with settings to see what resistor values might actually be useful) but in practise I dont think it would get used much.

I have done the standard modification with two 10K resistors and I really like it. So much so that I leave it in that setting for most of my mission because it makes all turns involving yaw so much smoother on the video, not just the intentional pans. The stock setting is nice to have if you have to do some "remedial maneuvering", but actually if there was a setting in between the two I would probably use that instead of the stock one.

So my answer is
stock setting + 10K setting
or
stock setting + 10K setting + one in between

I would never use variable.
 
i've only just read this, but i want one now

ps i'd want the variable control
 
I'm completely happy with yaw mod. Combine yaw with roll and it's amazing in how smooth the turns are.
 

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