DJI cameras are horrible

Maxie- how are you shooting? JPG or Raw?
Sure my P4P isn't as good as my Nikon D850, but I'd need a $6-10000 drone to carry that.
Learn how to get the best out of your camera.
Shoot raw, get proper exposures, keep your iso low (I never shoot above 100iso) , don't rely on Auto Exposure, learn how to process the raw files to best advantage.

I've been a photographer for 40 years. And I am amazed each time I go out at the things I can do with this machine.
Here's 2 photos using the P4P, the 3rd is with my Phantom 3 Pro
 

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Maxie- how are you shooting? JPG or Raw?
Sure my P4P isn't as good as my Nikon D850, but I'd need a $6-10000 drone to carry that.
Learn how to get the best out of your camera.
Shoot raw, get proper exposures, keep your iso low (I never shoot above 100iso) , don't rely on Auto Exposure, learn how to process the raw files to best advantage.

I've been a photographer for 40 years. And I am amazed each time I go out at the things I can do with this machine.
Here's 2 photos using the P4P, the 3rd is with my Phantom 3 Pro
Jephoto ...great pictures thanks..this is what I am looking fore..i used always 1600 asa..is too much..the reason is deciding factor for eliminating any possible motion blur...thanks a lot Maxie
 
Jephoto ...great pictures thanks..this is what I am looking fore..i used always 1600 asa..is too much..the reason is deciding factor for eliminating any possible motion blur...thanks a lot Maxie
Jephoto i am using Raw and working after the pictures in Adobe
 
i used always 1600 asa..is too much..
This is a clue to one reason you might be disappointed in some of your images.
The camera has a relatively small sensor.
It's much larger than DJI's smaller drones, but still much smaller than the sensor in a good SLR camera.
i-XVbML6P-S.jpg

Sensor noise is a problem with using small sensors, particularly in shadows.
Increasing ISO (ASA) increases grain in the images.
For good images, it's important to keep the ISO setting as low as possible.
That means setting it to ISO 100 unless there's a good reason to go higher.
the reason is deciding factor for eliminating any possible motion blur...thanks a lot Maxie
What motion blur are you concerned about?
The drone's gimbal can hold the drone camera more steadily than you can hand hold a camera on the ground.
In daylight conditions you should be able to shoot anything easily with ISO 100.
In the right conditions you still can even at night.
This night image was shot at ISO 100 F2.8 1/2 sec and it has sharp detail.
DJI_0174a-L.jpg

Look at it in the link in my first post to see it full screen.
Then look at this one to see how increasing ISO makes the image grainy.
Shot in very windy conditions at ISO 800 F2.8 1/10th sec
DJI_0195a-L.jpg

Increasing ISO to 800 makes for a lot of grain in the sky and dark areas of the image.

Post some examples of images you are not satisfied with if you want someone to help improve your results.
 
What most of you guys don’t know and want to not listen to Meta
is look at his website. You don’t want to listen but loook at his pictures. He tells you something you should listen. He knows what he is talking about. If I could even come close I would be proud.
 
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Jephoto ...great pictures thanks..this is what I am looking fore..i used always 1600 asa..is too much..the reason is deciding factor for eliminating any possible motion blur...thanks a lot Maxie
NEVER use anything but ISO 100.
 
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Jephoto ...great pictures thanks..this is what I am looking fore..i used always 1600 asa..is too much..the reason is deciding factor for eliminating any possible motion blur...thanks a lot Maxie
If you poll the DJI users here I think you’ll find the majority of us try and keep it at the lowest ISO possible as much of the time. You’ll be amazed at how steady it can be held. Even at shutter speeds that you would think would be a problem. That said you have to gauge the wind, allow The drone to settle in place before you start shooting if you’re at low shutter speeds. And take multiple exposures. And do some bracketing. Do the shutter speed that looks best and if that is anything between a 60th of a second and say down to a quarter of a second, to alternate exposures that are a bit faster.
Better to have a little bit under exposed then blurry. And if you’re at 100 iso you have more latitude for bringing the exposure back up.
I know there’s people here that do much longer exposures but I find most of the time say if I’m shooting at dusk and I want to get some light trails from moving cars, down to about .8 sec - with little wind it’s pretty sharp.
I’ll have to go back and look at the file, this was on a particularly still dusk evening in the summer. It may even been a full second. 100 iso.
There’s a website -www.windy.com- I keep the icon right on my phone with my drone apps and consult it all the time when I’m planning to go out shooting. And I’ll look for days where the wind is going to be very low if I think I’m gonna be doing dusk or dawn work and need slower exposures.
 

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Jephoto ...great pictures thanks..this is what I am looking fore..i used always 1600 asa..is too much..the reason is deciding factor for eliminating any possible motion blur...thanks a lot Maxie
If you poll the DJI users here I think you’ll find the majority of us try and keep it at the lowest ISO possible as much of the time. You’ll be amazed at how steady it can be held. Even at shutter speeds that you would think would be a problem. That said you have to gauge the wind, allow The drone to settle in place before you start shooting if you’re at low shutter speeds. And take multiple exposures. And do some bracketing. Do the shutter speed that looks best and if that is anything between a 60th of a second and say down to a quarter of a second, to alternate exposures that are a bit faster.
Better to have a little bit under exposed then blurry. And if you’re at 100 you also have more latitude for bringing the exposure back up.
I know there’s people here that do much longer exposures but I find most of the time say if I’m shooting at dusk and I want to get some light trails from moving cars, down to about .8 sec - with little wind it’s pretty sharp.

Jephoto i am using Raw and working after the pictures in Adobe
Unfortunately the little sensors the phantoms have can’t handle high iso. At 1600 your noise will be like golf balls. Not much can fix that.
Do some tests at 100,200,400 iso on same subjects. See what’s acceptable to you.
for me, 99.5% of the time I’m at 100
 
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Sounds like it’s a you issue not DJI and like Meta said they won’t here you here go to thier forum and rant not here 👍
I agree. The forum is for gaining and providing information and help. If you are having difficulties, provide information about those difficulties and a sample image or two and ask for help. Ranting complaints here about DJI will get you nowhere.
 
DJI made very good drones but the cameras are horrible..i used Phantom 4 pro but it is terrible...they used Hasselblad ( the best) but why not Canon or Fuji or Nikon...the cameras are horrible in the shadows and the pixels gives a lot of Photo Noise..the contrast is very low and working in JPEG is a drama...my question to DJI..don t made you own cameras or sensors ...camera brands as Zeiss or Minolta etcetera have more experiences
"Horrible" is a pretty stout word for a subjective opinion. Every time I put my P4P v2 in the air, I am awestruck at what all that machine marvel does. Not the least of which is its ability to take excellent photos and videos. Are better ones possible? Sure, if I don't mind spending more for a camera than I did for my entire drone. And the difference in results is barely noticeable to the average drone user while the difference in price whacks you like a 2x4. Sorry for the rant here but picky perfectionists drive me nuts.
 
Maxie- how are you shooting? JPG or Raw?
Sure my P4P isn't as good as my Nikon D850, but I'd need a $6-10000 drone to carry that.
Learn how to get the best out of your camera.
Shoot raw, get proper exposures, keep your iso low (I never shoot above 100iso) , don't rely on Auto Exposure, learn how to process the raw files to best advantage.

I've been a photographer for 40 years. And I am amazed each time I go out at the things I can do with this machine.
Here's 2 photos using the P4P, the 3rd is with my Phantom 3 Pro
I'm amazed as well. I took a photo recently of guys playing baseball from 400' high looking down and I can zoom in on the image to clearly see what each player was doing, identify their jersey number and see the bats, balls and gloves on the ground. I could probably spend $20,000 or more and get something better than my P4P v2 but please excuse me if I choose to not go that route.
 
I'm amazed as well. I took a photo recently of guys playing baseball from 400' high looking down and I can zoom in on the image to clearly see what each player was doing, identify their jersey number and see the bats, balls and gloves on the ground. I could probably spend $20,000 or more and get something better than my P4P v2 but please excuse me if I choose to not go that route.
Cheap scape.
78CA4033-14F7-44D5-980E-E46DB9CE6A59.gif
 
If you want to squeeze more out of your drone photos for printing, you may try Topaz DeNoise AI. I’ve been able to sell a few prints that I otherwise would not have tried to. Sometimes combined with Gigapixel AI to upscale. I’m not affiliated.
 

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