Crash P2V+ can camera be put back together?

[lawman0210]

So the ribbon broke and the camera came apart at the lower swivel. The cap seems to pop back on and rotates but it's not secure. A small bump and it will fall off. Can it be reattached?

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[hunch]

yes,
use high temp red Permatex.

 

[dirtybum]

After replacing ribbon cable of coarse! If your not very good with complex repairs with small frustrating pcs then your prob best to put it on e-bay labeled needs new cable & bid on a diff one! Jimmini fixit sells great rebuilt ones on e-bay

 

[lawman0210]

Guess your right

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[hunch]

easy fix.
did over 600 in past 11 months

 

[jiminyfixit]

Thanks for the kind words "hunch". WOW 600 fixes. You're crazier than I am, working with all those tiny little pcs and trying to get them to cooperate.
Not sure if you are familiar with my special roll motor-to-bracket fix, but I thought I would pass it on to all you "Pilots". Having been a plastics cavity mold maker in my more youthful days, I have knowledge, coupled with no fear, on fixing small devices. I like your red Permatex fix, as it doesn't require a machinists background.
I totally disassemble the camera to access the components for repair. I take the bare roll motor bracket, and make sure the black magnetic race is not totally compromised. It can have a few small scrapes in the race and still function, but deep gouges can compromise a reliable repair. I also check the bracket for damage that would keep the circuit board from sitting perfectly flat on its mounting surface.
I have a small machinists vise that has a flat surface, (put some tape on it to protect the bracket), where I lay the bracket down race-side-up and I place a 1/8" diameter ball bearing over the small hole. Make sure the hole is not badly deformed. Occasionally I used a flat punch to carefully "peen" the rim of the hole back in shape. With the ball bearing sitting in the hole, I place a 1/2" diameter flat punch on top of the bearing and strike the punch with a hammer, which slightly closes the hole diameter. Turn the bracket over, place the bracket on a spacer, ( I use a s.s. nut that is thicker than the bracket is deep. This nut supports the bracket from being caved in when you hit the ball bearing on this side. You may need to repeat these steps if you find the roll motor shaft doesn't fit tight enough.
Before I put the roll motor in the bracket, I push silly putty onto all surfaces of the motor to remove any magnetic residue, assuring a clean assembly. I do the same on the inside of the race area of the bracket. I place the motor inside the bracket and align the "flat" in the correct position. Note: You might want to take a photo before disassemble to record the proper orientation, if you don't have a spare camera to reference from. You may still need to "adjust" the horizontal position after assembly on your first start up.
I gently tap the motor into the hole, making sure I keep it "square" to the opening. Another tap, check, tap, etc. Continue until the shaft bottoms out on the vise surface and test for ease of rotation. It should spin freely without binding. After reassembly of the camera, with ribbon cable and horizontal adjustment, feel free to apply a small drop of Permatex on shaft, outside. I say outside because I have had cameras where DIYer's have used epoxy and glue inside, which can compromise function and is a mess to try to remove.
This fix assures a pretty tight roll motor/bracket connection, and will work very well,...............................until the next crash. :}

That's why "hunch" and I stay so busy.
Fly safer!

Jim

 

[hunch]

Jim,
nice write-up.
my procedure:
i use 800 grit sand paper to slightly sand the shaft, then i cut diagonally into the shaft with a 412 dremmel, just about 1/16 deep.
the reason i do that is once pematex dries it sits right in that cut inside the shaft
i put little red permatex on the shaft and put the drum back on and heat it to 400C to "sink in".
then i tighten it with C clamp for 48 hours.
after that i put everything back together and make final adjustments so the camera is at the perfect 90 degree angle.
i take the camera back off and cut into the shaft/drum with the same 412 dremmel about 1/4 inch wide and 1/16 inch deep.
i clean the cut with fiber cleaner and pour two layers of 1.5mm bondic into the shaft/drum cut and heal with UV light for couple seconds.

that's it.
it takes me about 20-30 minutes of handling time, besides the 48 hour wait for permatex to completely cure.
always have plenty of yaw arms, main boards, P and R sensor boards and cables so i can pretty much have
about 8-15 gimbals available at any time.

 

[lawman0210]

Ok how much to swap you mine for a working one?

 

[hunch]

can you send me some pictures or post them here in what kind of shape your is in?

 

[lawman0210]

Other then the part separating, ribbon broke, 2 shock absorbers and a small nick on he housing it's in great shape.

 

[hunch]

Yours and $200 for a replacement.

 

[jiminyfixit]

Jim,
nice write-up.
my procedure:
i use 800 grit sand paper to slightly sand the shaft, then i cut diagonally into the shaft with a 412 dremmel, just about 1/16 deep.
the reason i do that is once pematex dries it sits right in that cut inside the shaft
i put little red permatex on the shaft and put the drum back on and heat it to 400C to "sink in".
then i tighten it with C clamp for 48 hours.
after that i put everything back together and make final adjustments so the camera is at the perfect 90 degree angle.
i take the camera back off and cut into the shaft/drum with the same 412 dremmel about 1/4 inch wide and 1/16 inch deep.
i clean the cut with fiber cleaner and pour two layers of 1.5mm bondic into the shaft/drum cut and heal with UV light for couple seconds.

that's it.
it takes me about 20-30 minutes of handling time, besides the 48 hour wait for permatex to completely cure.
always have plenty of yaw arms, main boards, P and R sensor boards and cables so i can pretty much have
about 8-15 gimbals available at any time.
View attachment 34347

VERY impressive!!! It's great that the "Pilots" have access to several avenues of repair. Certainly not going to get this ingenuity from DJI.
Thanks for the detailed instructions!
Jim