- Joined
- Dec 1, 2014
- Messages
- 433
- Reaction score
- 396
Try the standard settings. You can always tweak those if you like but standard will give you a higher contrast, more saturated color and certainly sharp video.
Agree? "DJI PHANTOM 3 | Best camera settings …"
- Thread starter YolevonALLin
- Start date
Try the standard settings. You can always tweak those if you like but standard will give you a higher contrast, more saturated color and certainly sharp video.
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2014
- Messages
- 433
- Reaction score
- 396
"no real general rule?"..... with all respect I beg to differ.
"As a rule of thumb, you want the denominator of your shutter speed to be approximately double the number of frames per second that you are recording. In other words, if you are recording at 30 frames per second, you want your shutter speed to be 1/60th of a second."
But.....
"Even though we generally set the denominator of the shutter speed to be double the number of frames per second, you can achieve some interesting stylistic effects by straying from the norm."
https://vimeo.com/videoschool/lesson/56/frame-rate-vs-shutter-speed-setting-the-record-straight
For crisp architecture you can also try shooting 1080 @ 60fps and shutter at 125. I've found the higher the shutter speed while staying at the 24fps mark starts to give an almost strobe effect vs fluid hence the rule of thumb above.
"As a rule of thumb, you want the denominator of your shutter speed to be approximately double the number of frames per second that you are recording. In other words, if you are recording at 30 frames per second, you want your shutter speed to be 1/60th of a second."
But.....
"Even though we generally set the denominator of the shutter speed to be double the number of frames per second, you can achieve some interesting stylistic effects by straying from the norm."
https://vimeo.com/videoschool/lesson/56/frame-rate-vs-shutter-speed-setting-the-record-straight
For crisp architecture you can also try shooting 1080 @ 60fps and shutter at 125. I've found the higher the shutter speed while staying at the 24fps mark starts to give an almost strobe effect vs fluid hence the rule of thumb above.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2014
- Messages
- 433
- Reaction score
- 396
You'll need an ND8 or ND16 to get your SS down to the 50 mark on sunny or partly sunny days.
http://www.snakeriverprototyping.com/p3-series-filters
In his instructional video he shows one of those nice videos and says he records in 30 and then slows to 25
I don't know who started to say, but "frame rate be x2 of shutter speed" is superstitious.
Bigger frame rate is better to remove rolling shutter effect or "jello," shutter speed should be defined by Ev (brightness) and ISO (since P3 camera cannot change aperture). Ev + ISOv = Tv + Av
And basically frame rate is defined by the format of final media, but higher frame rate could be reduced by post processing.
Also jitter removal 50/60Hz should be fixed when in shoot under artificial light, usually "auto" is effective. Especially at outdoors, when in backlight and props shutter the sun beam and causes like jitter, "auto" seems to be effective (IMHO), because prop speed varies in flight.
P.S. I love higher frame rate, it causes "jump effect" of object - but P3 camera cannot shoot still while recording video (is it right?), so sampling a frame from footage (or synthesis from continuous few frames) to make still is the only way. 4K is enough at resolution, but 30 fps is not enough. At least 240 fps needed. I must wait for progression of imager device.
You mean the inverse I guess... shutter speed is twice the frame rate. 24fps, shutter 1/48 and so on...
Last edited:
Too many people overthink their settings. Frankly, auto settings with a slight underexposure is a good starting point. If you want pizzazz learn post production. Get tools that allow effect masking based on luminance and color channels. For example, I usually use the sky as my guide for auto settings. Then, mask it and hardly touch in post. Color grading and exposure then become a matter of getting the rest of the picture balanced. Use auto and then spend your effort on composition and flying skill. The chips are smarter and faster than we are 99% of the time. My .02 cents worth.
Z
Z
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 49
- Reaction score
- 16
- Age
- 40
The x2 fps rule is widely used by professional videographers to achieve the cinematic look. These are the scenes you see in the movies. I'm a wedding photographer and work with a lot of videographers who use x2 fps to get their cinematic look. With that said if you want more crisp images simply shoot at a higher shutter speed and higher fps. The more fps you shoot on, the more you can also slow down your frames for super slo mo in post processing. Check out devinsupertramp on YouTube. That guy shoots amazing videos with a lot of "how to videos"
Jeez I appreciate all of the input but **** you guys got detailed haha. I'm happy to read it, but doubt I have the time or skill to really get it perfect for my hobby.. Just want something that people will go **** that's a sick video.. Not a Sundance quality film. No mistakes, minimize errors and capitalize on a good scene. That's my goal. Others obviously have bigger aspersions and more power to them.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 49
- Reaction score
- 16
- Age
- 40
Just my 2c.. But you are referring to 'pal'.. Which became meaningless 10 years ago with HD.I don't confuse frame rate with shutter speed... Thanks.
There is no reason to shoot 25fps now unless you want 25fps (and frankly I can think of no reasons why you'd want it unless you are editing with other 25fps footage).
But each to their own
Stu - also in UK.. And never shoot in horrible 25fps unless mandated by having to use a crappy Sony camera who still insists on equating fps with regional analogue sd formats from the 1970s (pal vs ntsc) and ONLY let UK cameras shoot in 25/50... The main reason I buy most of my Sony cameras from the USA.
I do motion tracking for compositing effects where motion blur is not good. I always shoot at 60fps with a higher shutter speed when possible.
I agree this point, but not for aerial camera. Aircrafts have high speed but slight vibration, and this causes jello effect. The frequency of jello can be calculated not only by frame rate and shutter speed, but also frequency of vibration affects. The 3rd one varies corresponding to motor power - always.
Also, professional cameras generally have global shutter, and Phantom camera (also GoPro) has rolling shutter.
And - remember, professional cameras (of course) have aperture (iris), so camera men can set optimal shutter speed for frame rate, but Phantom camera is fixed to F2.8 - we cannot choose shutter speed freely.
I basically agree when shutter speed is less (slower) than 2x frame rate (actually 4x is enough) then jello effects can be removed (in fact changes to blur which lowers sharpness of footage), so ND filter helps and controlling ISO instead of aperture works.
Thanks to all who posted on this forum, you convinced me to score a used p3 pro from b&h first chance I got. Can't wait to fly it after it arrives tomorrow. Although the camera is not as great as the gopro4 it's good enough especially being able to tweak ISO etc from ground make it ideal especially given its range.
It depends on what your environment is. When I'm photographing agriculture during mid day, I have to set the shutter speed at 300 to 400 to keep the image from washing out. Watch your histogram and adjust your settings to keep all the light in the middle and not on the edges.
If I'm not going to playback in 4k, or at least I assume my audience won't.. Is it still recommended to always shoot in 4k?
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Similar threads
