550 Pilot's lounge

[BallisticPhantom]

Sorry to hear that havasu.

 

[havasuphoto]

Sorry to hear that havasu.

Thanks
Yea-sucks to be me sometimes.
But-I've pulled out the old P1, and now it's time to change that 3 way switch from GPS-Atti-Atti, to Manual as the last selection, and start learning to fly in manual mode. Should be some good times. especially with the P2 props on there and the big mad dog batteries.

 

[OI Photography]

El Guapo

:lol: I can't believe I hadn't made that connection until now...but what is done cannot be undone:

ANYway lol...havasu, I've found this soldering jig to be immensely helpful when doing bullet connectors or XT60's: http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index. ... ts_id=1757

I think that one might be available at other places (I notice RMRC is out right now), and there's other types of jigs available for that, but that one has worked wonders for me even more than just using the regular alligator-clip "helping hands" (which I also have).

Also, when you first start getting familiar with Manual mode, I would definitely begin with the lightest Phantom you can put up, and make sure you have practiced the motion of getting your finger back up to the GPS switch very quickly without having to look down at it

 

[havasuphoto]

Yea-I have a bunch of props for my Phantoms.....
I have no problem finding that switch immediately if needed. Have been using that remote under goggles the longest and am very familiar with where everything is-blind folded LOL

I'm going to "fly it like I own it"....full blown FPV, with a big old Maddog in there...just fat and heavy. Let's make it interesting.
I have plenty of blue sky...so altitude will be my new best friend.
I figure Naza can recover from just about anything that gets thrown at it, as long as you have altitude.

 

[havasuphoto]

Parts for the F550 ordered-should be here next week.
Question; do any of you guys mount your ESC's inside, just stick them to the PCB board, flat?

Now that I'm rebuilding, I'm re-thinking this idea of mounting the ESC's on the outside. On the arms is not an option...so, the only 2 options I can think of are on top of the hat(like I showed in the picture before), or inside the cage. I'm thinking that since they're the DJI 30A's that heat shouldn't be a problem like it was with the cheapy ESC's I had mounted inside before.
Thoughts?

I have plenty of options since we're replacing the lower PCB and basically rebuilding from there.
Keep in mind I'm running 4S(battery on bottom), and 28XX 770 KV T-motors, swinging whatever the "prop of the day" is. But likely 11 and 12's.
Also-I'm running Naza Lite, with LED, PMU V2, etc.

I'm also giving serious consideration to parting ways with the EZ UHF TX/RX system, and going with the Futaba 7008SB...thoughts?

Right now, Naza is configured for RC "Traditional"...so, when I first plug in the new receiver(D-bus/S-bus), will Naza automatically switch over to D-bus? The remote is already configured for Naza with P2 settings, so I don't think I need to change anything there.
Just "bind" the 2, calibrate, and?

NOT doing Bullet Connectors for the main...that's final. Will still run bullets to the 3 wires out to the engine, but, going to shorten those wires a bit, and Re-Do all of them...or, maybe just join the 2 wires directly, wrap with 1 wire and heat shrink. Still thinking on that one......

 

[SanCap]

I went flying at Wa-Ke-Hat Chee Park Recreation Area tonight (Ft Myers, Florida). What a beautiful park, it has a wonderful dog park for those that imbibe with dogs. I was driving the 550 with the GoPro as my FPV. Here is a still photo/frame I took out of the 1080P video. I did minimal PS on it.

 

[OI Photography]

The extended mount I use doesn't vibrate, but that's at least partially due to the dampeners it has at the points the whole assembly (incl landing gear) mounts to the body. The camera bracket itself also hangs from the rails on dampeners, which I think is the same method used by the landing gear and mounts several others here are using.

Whether or not you see the arms or landing gear just depends on exactly where you mount the camera (how far out and how low) as well as the angle and which mode you're shooting in (wide/medium/narrow). It's never been an issue for me but my camera has always been mounted where it is now.

I have no idea what the flight time record is for a conventional 550, but I'd say you would probably do well to get 15 min flights when loaded (incl gopro and gimbal).

 

[ElGuano]

So-now I know I have a bad power pad at M4-which means I need a new lower PCB.....just great-that's all I needed.

Boo, sorry to hear that. Depending on your motor's power draw, you could in a pinch double-up your ESCs to a good power pad. I do that on the Y6. But I would definitely replace a bad lower plate, just throwing it out there in case you find yourself in a position waiting for backorders to fill and want to test a hover or something.

the only 2 options I can think of are on top of the hat(like I showed in the picture before), or inside the cage

Back when I first got my frame, I was toying with the idea of installing the bottom plate upside down so the power pads are facing the ground, and installing the ESCs on the underside of the bottom plate. That would depend on your landing gear, gimbal and battery config though. just another option. It's a lot easier routing on the F450 because there are holes right where the pads are, as if DJI really wanted you to do it that way...

I took El Guapo's suggestion and plugged the mains of M4 ESC directly into a Lipo.....pushed motor test again-nothing.

Aw shucks, you're the first guy who's ever called me El Guapo. I'm blushing like a schoolgirl.

 

[havasuphoto]

You're funny.....
By putting the holes in the bottom plate, where exactly does DJI expect us to mount the ESC's? I'm kinda confused on that statement.
I know a lot of people mount them 1/2 down their arms-not an option for me.
I also discovered I have 18 extended aluminum wires to go from the engines to the ESC's, so I'm going to swap out the copper ones for aluminum.

I thought about using an adjoining pad or even the battery pad...but, since the plate is already burned, there could be hidden damage, and another pad could go "poof" in flight-magic smoke. Safer just to rebuild.
And, I'll learn in the process.

I'm looking at that Readymade soldering jig to do the bullet connectors....I'd like to learn to solder, and I think I'll start by trying to de-solder the existing ESC of the pads. Couldn't hurt anything-and it's good to practice on.
Any suggestions on wattage for an iron? Type of solder to use(lead? Flux?). What do I use to de-solder? syringe? copper strands?

I'm off to fly the Phantoms!! It's only 95 deg's and 25% humidly!!! Yea, it's already stupid hot.....but the winds are dead calm.

EDIT: in the time it took me to make this post, "air-mass" thunderstorms are rapidly moving across the Lake from the South. You can't even see the mountains across the lake-and the winds have jumped up to 20mph already.....
I hate Monsoon Season!!! Go up early for nothing!!
Another EDIT:
See the lake-this was taken when the winds were calm;

See any mountains(you're supposed to)..and look at the tree's bending over...winds over 30mph now;


Where's the lake?


See-this is what happens here. I could have been out flying, and in less than 5 minutes the winds can go from calm to over 30mph!!!!
Luckily-I trust my weather instinct. I've seen this kind of weather pattern here before. And even though the radar didn't show anything really moving this way-these Thunderstorms can just pop up any ole place they'd like, and ruin your day quickly.

Still nothing showing on Radar. This is a classic Haboob.....Dust Storm. You may be used to seeing them pass through Phoenix. Well, we get them here too...and the radar won't show anything...but you sure can't fly in this stuff.

EDIT-again.
this wind graph tells the story..at 6:15am it was calm, at 6:40am it was 38 mph!!!

 

[ElGuano]

By putting the holes in the bottom plate, where exactly does DJI expect us to mount the ESC's? I'm kinda confused on that statement.

I think they're just accessory holes, I use 'em for antennas and various other wiring. But you have a lot of flexibility with plate layout generally. Wherever they live, you want the ESCs to have adequate airflow, particularly if you're testing on a bench.

I also discovered I have 18 extended aluminum wires to go from the engines to the ESC's, so I'm going to swap out the copper ones for aluminum.

Hmm...My understanding is that high-current wiring for RC is all copper/tinned copper, because the electrical and heating properties of aluminum make it non-ideal for these purposes. Among other things, alu expands and contracts significantly more than copper under heat; over repeated loads to the motors this might cause strands to loosen and/or break over time. I don't know how much of a concern that is for our purposes, but it's a novel enough idea that it's worth researching before committing.

 

[FangsCPO]

Here's my philosophy on mounting the ESCs. The manufacturer put them out on the arms for a reason. I'm inclined to believe it was to provide them enough air to keep them cool. I believe if you put them under the top plate, you are going to make everything under there more crowded and greatly reduce air circulation to provide proper cooling. Then again anything is worth a try once to see what happens as long as you don't crash.

 

[havasuphoto]

Here's my philosophy on mounting the ESCs. The manufacturer put them out on the arms for a reason. I'm inclined to believe it was to provide them enough air to keep them cool. I believe if you put them under the top plate, you are going to make everything under there more crowded and greatly reduce air circulation to provide proper cooling. Then again anything is worth a try once to see what happens as long as you don't crash.

Great.
Putting them on the arms isn't an option because of the length(800mm), and they're round CF tubes-so really no good place to mount. Plus, I don't want all the wires showing.
So, I'll have to be creative.

As for the Aluminum wires-I know some guys swear by them...say they're great for conductivity and reduced "drag" when the electricity flows through them.
Keep in mind I'm running roughly 300mm of wire, from the ESC(the 3 control wires going to the Engine).

I think "normally", people run longer main power wires, and opt for very short control wires. This would put the ESC's much closer to the engines. My concern is running the long control wires might produce issues.
I've seen it done both ways-and never heard of any problems. That's what that big Capacitor is for....surges in voltage.

I'd be curious to see pictures of how others mounted their ESC's-if not on the arms.

Also-going to get me a soldering gun!!!
But-don't know which kind to get. It's going to be a Weller, but, should I go with Weller 1/4" 40W/900 deg's or an 1/8" 25W/750.
Both gun kits have various tips-so I can figure that part out.

also, solder mix? Is 60/40 lead based with rosin core good? I'm planning on hitting up Ace Hardware Today(since it's stupid windy Today and I'm super bored).
Was going to de-solder stuff. Maybe, if I can find some "arms", put some bullets onto those aluminum wires I have.....I just need to learn this Soldering stuff. I can watch Youtube video's but they only help so much.

 

[FangsCPO]

Home Depot $32

Weller
Model # 8200PKS
100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit

You can buy extra tips when needed on Amazon.

 

[havasuphoto]

Home Depot $32

Weller
Model # 8200PKS
100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit

You can buy extra tips when needed on Amazon.

Didn't even think of Home Depot...we have 1 here and a Lowe's!!!
I also need the copper de-soldering strips w/flux, to suck up the old solder. Gonna have to do a search on their site.

So-how hot should the Iron be? 100/140 sounds like a lot of heat...? Just remember-I am stupid enough to burn a hole clean through the PCB board
I want something with lights on the end too....OH, and need those two little arms with alligator clips-helping hands.
I have a closet full of use Nomex flight gloves, so I'm got my hands covered

Solder type and diameter?

 

[ElGuano]

I think "normally", people run longer main power wires, and opt for very short control wires. This would put the ESC's much closer to the engines.

Yeah, the Tarot method with the ESCs mounted under the motors (same with the DJI S800/S1000). Personally I don't like that method, as wire inductance adds strain and heat to the ESC caps and can burn them out over time, especially on large frames. DJI accounts for this on their custom ESCs but few people consider it on DIY builds with standard aftermarket ESCs. Frame mounted is the "better" way in this regard: ESCs closer on the circuit to the battery, longer wires to the motors. Otherwise, you'll want to add up your cap ratings and throw additional ones on in parallel for every 5-10cm of distance from your battery.

 

[havasuphoto]

I think "normally", people run longer main power wires, and opt for very short control wires. This would put the ESC's much closer to the engines.

Yeah, the Tarot method with the ESCs mounted under the motors (same with the DJI S800/S1000). Personally I don't like that method, as wire inductance adds strain and heat to the ESC caps and can burn them out over time, especially on large frames. DJI accounts for this on their custom ESCs but few people consider it on DIY builds with standard aftermarket ESCs. Frame mounted is the "better" way in this regard: ESCs closer on the circuit to the battery, longer wires to the motors. Otherwise, you'll want to add up your cap ratings and throw additional ones on in parallel for every 5-10cm of distance from your battery.

Yea-that's what I was wondering. I think I'll keep the main wires short, and just run the longer control wires.
The DJI 30A ESC has a big enough Cap for what I'm running on 4S.
I just need to figure out a real creative way to mount them to they receive maximum airflow, yet easy to mount. Really no room on the bottom of the PCB, because of battery tray, etc. And, I think that's a poor location because of the lack of airflow in a hover.
Placing them on the hat induces a whole other set of issues-the need to un-plug the control wire bullets each time you want to remove the hat. But, I'll have to get my soldering iron and play around with the "carcass" of my old aircraft to see what will work the best. May end up mounting them outside-on the sides of the main center part of the aircraft.

 

[FangsCPO]

Home Depot $32

Weller
Model # 8200PKS
100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit

You can buy extra tips when needed on Amazon.

Didn't even think of Home Depot...we have 1 here and a Lowe's!!!
I also need the copper de-soldering strips w/flux, to suck up the old solder. Gonna have to do a search on their site.

So-how hot should the Iron be? 100/140 sounds like a lot of heat...? Just remember-I am stupid enough to burn a hole clean through the PCB board
I want something with lights on the end too....OH, and need those two little arms with alligator clips-helping hands.
I have a closet full of use Nomex flight gloves, so I'm got my hands covered

Solder type and diameter?

This one has a light on the end. I only use the 100 watt setting. I've yet to burn anything.....yet. LOL!!

 

[havasuphoto]

Home Depot $32

Weller
Model # 8200PKS
100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit

You can buy extra tips when needed on Amazon.

Didn't even think of Home Depot...we have 1 here and a Lowe's!!!
I also need the copper de-soldering strips w/flux, to suck up the old solder. Gonna have to do a search on their site.

So-how hot should the Iron be? 100/140 sounds like a lot of heat...? Just remember-I am stupid enough to burn a hole clean through the PCB board
I want something with lights on the end too....OH, and need those two little arms with alligator clips-helping hands.
I have a closet full of use Nomex flight gloves, so I'm got my hands covered

Solder type and diameter?

This one has a light on the end. I only use the 100 watt setting. I've yet to burn anything.....yet. LOL!!

Yea-I saw that. Just questioning whether I'd be better with the smaller pencil type? I've used the "gun" before...years ago. It didn't end well.
But-I don't want something that's too anemic and I end up with cold joints.

 

[FangsCPO]

I guess it is a matter of choice and what you are comfortable with. This works perfectly for me and I'm no expert at soldering.

 

[FangsCPO]

What do you mean by anemic and cold joints...... See how much of a rookie I am?