550 Pilot's lounge

[havasuphoto]

The way mine is set up-and they way I've heard it described, you don't need to plug anything from the gimbal into Naza. That's handled with the PMU V2 and the GCU. So, from the gimbal-the only thing that's plugged in, is that wide GCU cable, into the GCU.

That may be your issue....just trying to help.

 

[Acill]

With all the aircraft builders around here I thought I would share what I use as a substitute for nylon tye-wraps. I find that even the smallest tye-wrap is kind of bulky and not aesthetically pleasing. I was an aircraft mechanic for many years and this was an accepted practice for securing wires and such. Waxed Lacing Chord http://www.amazon.com/Waxed-Lacing-...=1407262784&sr=8-3&keywords=waxed+lacing+cord. One roll of this will last longer than thousands of the-wraps. There is a bit of an art to tying the knots but I like it better. Here are some instructions http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html. Here are a couple of them on my newly built 450.

I do this as well, you can search for "sail twine" and find some. Those of us that are retired sailors know this stuff well

You can also use imitation sinew thread like this: http://www.amazon.com/standsbyriver-Bla ... 3VPCS18J97

 

[PJA]

The way mine is set up-and they way I've heard it described, you don't need to plug anything from the gimbal into Naza. That's handled with the PMU V2 and the GCU. So, from the gimbal-the only thing that's plugged in, is that wide GCU cable, into the GCU.

That may be your issue....just trying to help.

Yep, havasuphoto, I have that cable connected correctly... I personally think the Zenmuse Gimbal was damaged in my last crash... I've used my GLB Gimbal on my last few outing with my P1.5 and it worked fine... Maybe I'll try connecting it to my Phantom to see if I get the same results...

Thanks for your input...

 

[PJA]

I think I found the problem with my Zenmuse Gimbal.

I reexamined it really close today and saw that one of the servos casing became misaligned. Probably from the crash I had with my Phantom... As you can see from the pictures below, the Gimbal probably hit the ground at this point. The seal was off when I retrieved the Phantom (as you can see, but I do have it). Didn't realize it was damaged like this... Unless you look close, the alignment doesn't look that bad... Let me know if you think I'm right?

If this is my problem, is there any way to really fix it?
Is it easy enough to open up and do surgery, or should I just sell it "AS IS," and get a new one?

 

[havasuphoto]

Looks broke to me-if it acts broke, it probably is.
I don't know if there is any way to fix these-they're pretty sensitive and fussy. Maybe someone else has some idea's?
Mine fixed itself. Upgraded to FW 3.06 and don't have any issues now.

 

[OI Photography]

I think I found the problem with my Zenmuse Gimbal.

R.I.P.

I'm sorry man, it truly breaks my heart. Unless EMCSQUAR has some good news that the fracture might actually be field serviceable, it's probably time for a memorial service.

 

[ElGuano]

If that happened to mine, I'd say it's time to open it up and see if it can be saved. You've got nothing to lose at this point. What are the symptoms you're seeing?

 

[PJA]

If that happened to mine, I'd say it's time to open it up and see if it can be saved. You've got nothing to lose at this point. What are the symptoms you're seeing?

It goes from doing nothing for a couple minutes to coming alive and jumping around back and forth, side by side... Then for a lousy 10 seconds I have some control... Then it repeats...

I upgraded the GCU and went through NAZA to see if anything could be done there...
The VR setting on my Futaba 8J is being used.

I might just open the servo and see whats wrong if you really think there's no hope, Mr. ELG...

Otherwise, It will be for sale 'AS IS' on eBay...

Any help will be appreciated, ElGuano...

 

[ElGuano]

Well, what you describe sounds pretty bad. The process you describe sounds like ti's going through some kind of initialization and failsafe process over and over. I assume there's nothing preventing you from selling it as scrap even if you open it up, just depends on how good you are with electronics and mechanical guts (you may be able to isolate the problem to one of the brushless motors, or a severed ribbon cable, you may actually be able to fix it...won't know until you see).

 

[havasuphoto]

Can you remove that cover? would like to see what's inside there.......maybe someone else will see something in there that can be fixed or at least worked on.

 

[OI Photography]

PJ, I just realized it's your H3-2D, fit some reason I thought it was a -3D. I actually have a non-functional -2D as well, that I bought to rob of its gopro port. I think the only fault is a broken ribbon cable on it somewhere, and if the remainder of my parts can be combined with yours to produce one working gimbal, you are welcome to them!

 

[PJA]

Can you remove that cover? would like to see what's inside there

I unscrewed 2 screws and removed the cover around the servo, and then I unscrewed the 2 screws under the cover. Now I know what ElGuano meant by ribbon cable. I looked at it closely and said "where do I go from here?" :shock:

I put everything back together...

So, I reconnected the Zenmuse, and in a hopeful stroke of luck, that by fooling around with it, it might work............................nope...................... Same thing... just vibrations and side by side movement and wiggling...

PJ, I just realized it's your H3-2D, fit some reason I thought it was a -3D. I actually have a non-functional -2D as well, that I bought to rob of its gopro port. I think the only fault is a broken ribbon cable on it somewhere, and if the remainder of my parts can be combined with yours to produce one working gimbal, you are welcome to them!

Thanks for the offer OI... I think I'm just going to buy one that works... whether it's new or used for now... I don't think I want to fool around with ribbon cables and servos since I never had experience fixing or taking them apart. I'll just sell this one AS IS, for parts on eBay and get another H3-2D. I'll make sure there's nothing else wrong with my f550 set up with another one before I sell it...

Have you had any problems with your H3-3D Gimbal, OI? I have read some horror stories that people are receiving some that don't work right... What's the best price I can get a H3-3D for and where??? eBay prices are $379.00 average pricing (actually, the same as a H3-2D).

 

[havasuphoto]

Whatever you buy; make sure you get the version with the GCU-it's the same price. You won't need the GCU for the P2. But, when you want to put it on the 550, you'll already have that part. It's normally $160 w/o the gimbal.
I thought they were all around $369....shop around.

 

[OI Photography]

Have you had any problems with your H3-3D Gimbal, OI? I have read some horror stories that people are receiving some that don't work right... What's the best price I can get a H3-3D for and where??? eBay prices are $379.00 average pricing (actually, the same as a H3-2D).

I haven't had any performance issues with it at all so far, on my 1.5 or 550. Once or twice the gimbal kicked to the left while flying then reset itself a second later...but I think both cases were due to either wind force on the gimbal or over-aggressive yaw input (or both). Like havasu mentioned I think the price is pretty much the same everywhere, I've only seen it for $379 or sometimes more.

However, I do experience the slight video noise in the display and audio noise recorded by the camera, both attributed to the new USB port that replaced the old rear port like on your -2D. I'll be doing the modification to swap the old port from the busted -2D I bought for that purpose. To be honest though, unless the slight impact on the quality of display on your monitor really bother you, and/or you must have noise-free audio on the camera's original recording, the mod might not be worth it.

If you just want to get rid of that busted H3-2D you have instead of saving the port, here's a potential buyer for you: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=17831&start=10#p207725

 

[havasuphoto]

My aircraft is finally done!!! Rail system and landing gear have been mounted, battery tray mounted-batteries are charging.

The AUW, w/battery is 3030 grams. I should be doing 2 test flights Tomorrow, on 4S at the local baseball fields here. I've balanced the aircraft with the battery in it, did an advance calibration in Naza, re-checked the motors are spinning in the right direction, and powered it up with the remote-everything works fine. It sounds "mean"......

For voltage levels-I don't have a lot of experience with 4S, so I went conservative, with this;
I set the voltage limits as followed;
1st level warning;
No Load Loss Loaded
14.80 0.50 14.30

2nd level warning;
No load Loss Loaded
14.50 0.50 14.00

Anyone see any issues with those settings? I plan to land shortly after the 1st level goes off-I want to get an idea of out voltage, recovery voltage, and how many MAH goes back in. These are the Readymade 4S 8000mah batteries(big orange ones).

Pictures of my rail system, battery tray and gear;




Yea-I have to find a better way to mount my ESC's-that's just temporary and if it's working right now-don't "poke the bear"

I will have my friend with me with laser thermometer to check temps....and, if I get 2 successful flights, the plan is to do a lot of "clean-up" detail work, like zip tying stuff, heat shrink, and I'll probably re-do the motor wires with aluminum wires that are all black-and slightly longer. And, I'll put the gimbal/camera and VTX back on.

My readymade solder jig and bag o bullet connectors should be hear next week-so I plan to re do all those wires, and come up with a better mounting solution for the ESC's.

 

[OI Photography]

My readymade solder jig and bag o bullet connectors should be hear next week-so I plan to re do all those wires, and come up with a better mounting solution for the ESC's.

Sweet, when you get it I can give you a quick tut on how to make the most of it when soldering bullet connectors

 

[havasuphoto]

My readymade solder jig and bag o bullet connectors should be hear next week-so I plan to re do all those wires, and come up with a better mounting solution for the ESC's.

Sweet, when you get it I can give you a quick tut on how to make the most of it when soldering bullet connectors

That would be nice. I've already re done a couple on the aircraft, w/o the jig, by hand and that was tough. But-after they cooled I tugged on them hard and they stayed-so I got lucky.
It's very difficult to get a good solder on bullets when you don't have a jig....you really need a 3rd hand. That's why I'm getting the jig and re doing the existing wires-just don't want a cold joint, and I feel if I pull out any more motor wires to apply heat shrink to the bullets, I'll get another cold one(I've only done 2-so it's no big deal to start over).

 

[OI Photography]

I promise you'll laugh when you see how easy it is with the jig and how consistent and good your results will be

 

[havasuphoto]

I promise you'll laugh when you see how easy it is with the jig and how consistent and good your results will be

Good, because I have 3 wires, times 2 ends, times 6 motors=36? bullet connectors.....I think?

 

[OI Photography]

If it's just the wires from the motors you need a total of 18...but you'll have plenty of spares