550 Pilot's lounge
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havasuphoto said:
These? http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index. ... ts_id=2757
I actually ordered 3 pairs from RMRC several weeks ago to test while I wait till can fit the T-motor 12" CF's in to the budget. I started to balance one of them, gave up after a few minutes, and actually forgot about them completely until you asked about them
I'll try to get them balanced tonight and tested, and I'll be interested to hear your results.As for the 6mm-8mm prop adaptors, you'll get some in the package with the gemfans. Check and see if they would work on the graupners as well, and if they do then I have a bunch of extra ones I can send you.
Yep-those are the props. I got them because they were cheap-and for the prop adaptersOI Photography said:havasuphoto said:
These? http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index. ... ts_id=2757
I actually ordered 3 pairs from RMRC several weeks ago to test while I wait till can fit the T-motor 12" CF's in to the budget. I started to balance one of them, gave up after a few minutes, and actually forgot about them completely until you asked about them
As for the 6mm-8mm prop adaptors, you'll get some in the package with the gemfans. Check and see if they would work on the graupners as well, and if they do then I have a bunch of extra ones I can send you.
How you gonna balance them? sanding or tape? Balance with the adapter in the prop?
Yea-I'd like the T-motor CF props too...but the price is just way too expensive. And-I think the pitch is to high for my motors. you can only get I think 12X5's or higher.....
I was able to get 4 XOXO 9.4" e-bay props balanced.....took awhile, and a lot of sanding, but got them perfect. Haven't tried the tape yet. was told to use scotch tape...sound right? on the underside, middle...small piece should do it.
FangsCPO said:
Well we really haven't had a clear sunny day with all blue sky since I posted this. I did do some flying with it this past weekend, but the verdict is not out yet on whether it works as designed or not. It was bright out, but it was somewhat overcast at the same time so this may have caused the issues I witnessed. The resulting footage was hazy, almost like there was a forest fire somewhere in the distance and a light amount of smoke had permeated the whole area. It also drastically reduced the colors in the video. The footage did not "pop" with color like it usually does when using the GoPro naked. I'm hoping this won't happen next time I try it with full sun and an empty blue sky.
I can report this filter, even at a reported .2 grams, does upset the balance of the gimbal somewhat. It's pretty obvious when the gimbal is not powered up because with the filter attached the GoPro immediately faces straight down from the added weight. Once it's powered up it seems to be okay and levels out without difficulty. The gimbal, for the most part, behaves the same as before as far as it's ability to keep the GoPro stabilized. What effect this extra weight will have over time is yet to be determined though. I also noticed that with the ND filter attached and the gimbal rotated to the straight down position the resulting footage doesn't appear to be looking straight down, but rotated up a degree or two. Very strange... I did fly my hex directly overhead and looked at the orientation from directly below and it "appears" to be pointed straight down. More testing is required, but so far I'm not impressed....
U.M.
Fireworks!!!!!
Well the 4th of July is rapidly approaching and I've got a plan to film the big fireworks show they have downtown every year. We have a great place we drive to with an awesome vantage point. Very few people use this area to spectate from because it's on the other side of the river in a run down industrial area.
I'm curious as to whether I should use the "Low Light" setting on my GoPro or not? I mean it will be dark out, but the backdrop of the city lights may be more than enough ambient light for filming and maybe the bright flashes from the shells will be too much for the low light setting to handle. I plan on shooting from an altitude roughly the same as the burst height for the display (400-500 feet). I was thinking about buying a mortar & shells from one of the local fireworks stands and running some test shots this weekend to see how it looks. However a DOT Class "C" firework is nothing like the professional shells fired at a big even like the 4th.
Suggestions? Recommendations? Words of wisdom?
U.M.
Here is a video from a Phantom using a GoPro 3 shooting a pro display from close up. I don't want to be this close of course... but I'm kind of disappointed with this guys footage. Might be due to the rendering method used on the original footage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4SzlLhSyG4
Well the 4th of July is rapidly approaching and I've got a plan to film the big fireworks show they have downtown every year. We have a great place we drive to with an awesome vantage point. Very few people use this area to spectate from because it's on the other side of the river in a run down industrial area.
I'm curious as to whether I should use the "Low Light" setting on my GoPro or not? I mean it will be dark out, but the backdrop of the city lights may be more than enough ambient light for filming and maybe the bright flashes from the shells will be too much for the low light setting to handle. I plan on shooting from an altitude roughly the same as the burst height for the display (400-500 feet). I was thinking about buying a mortar & shells from one of the local fireworks stands and running some test shots this weekend to see how it looks. However a DOT Class "C" firework is nothing like the professional shells fired at a big even like the 4th.
Suggestions? Recommendations? Words of wisdom?
U.M.
Here is a video from a Phantom using a GoPro 3 shooting a pro display from close up. I don't want to be this close of course... but I'm kind of disappointed with this guys footage. Might be due to the rendering method used on the original footage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4SzlLhSyG4
re: Fireworks
Because it is dark, the rendering won't be daylight crisp - I know that sounds too obvious but a lot of people expect 4000 dpi resolution from a night shot and it doesn't work that way most of the time. The very best (most pleasing) shots are done with time exposure. Movies are typically done with very wide angle lenses (like the GoPro).
Here is an example (full size available - just showing time exposure). Camera was a Nikon DSLR with a wide lens on a tripod and a 2-3 second exposure. Not sure of the aperture:
Your link was pretty popular a little while back (at least in my area) because we do a lot of fireworks and are always wanting to get closer to the action with the camera but still get a sensible image (even the audience section is too close with a medium or long lens). I've backed up a 1000 feet with a medium lens in the past (as in standing in the road outside the arena).
Taking the Phantom shots is a whole other perspective but it requires you to get close. The guy in your link got close. He risked his machine (although it is quite hard to hit a single speck in the sky - at our club shoots we try to shoot down an RC biplane that is going quite slow - it never has been hit although we did bring it down with a huge fireball once - it lost all lift due to the heat)
You will need to get close with your GoPro (or other) if you want a nice full picture. The problem with that is the lights on your machine will make the audience mad if it is up there for any length of time ... so be appreciative of that.
Because it is dark, the rendering won't be daylight crisp - I know that sounds too obvious but a lot of people expect 4000 dpi resolution from a night shot and it doesn't work that way most of the time. The very best (most pleasing) shots are done with time exposure. Movies are typically done with very wide angle lenses (like the GoPro).
Here is an example (full size available - just showing time exposure). Camera was a Nikon DSLR with a wide lens on a tripod and a 2-3 second exposure. Not sure of the aperture:
Your link was pretty popular a little while back (at least in my area) because we do a lot of fireworks and are always wanting to get closer to the action with the camera but still get a sensible image (even the audience section is too close with a medium or long lens). I've backed up a 1000 feet with a medium lens in the past (as in standing in the road outside the arena).
Taking the Phantom shots is a whole other perspective but it requires you to get close. The guy in your link got close. He risked his machine (although it is quite hard to hit a single speck in the sky - at our club shoots we try to shoot down an RC biplane that is going quite slow - it never has been hit although we did bring it down with a huge fireball once - it lost all lift due to the heat)
You will need to get close with your GoPro (or other) if you want a nice full picture. The problem with that is the lights on your machine will make the audience mad if it is up there for any length of time ... so be appreciative of that.
Attachments
Yea I've shot my fair share of time exposure fireworks shots over the years. This is a whole new angle as you've already mentioned. I did some searching on the internet and it looks like filming at 2.7K/30FPS with the low light setting "off" is going to be the best compromise. I still plan on running some small scale tests this weekend.
No worries about the lights on my bird. The only light on it is the single Naza status led.
U.M.
No worries about the lights on my bird. The only light on it is the single Naza status led.
U.M.
Just received my F550 from Helipal. Decided to step up from the Vision 2+. I ordered the RTF kit. Got things up and running and soon found out that I did not do my homework regarding the Devo 7 transmitter, with respect to its useful range. It is definitely not the transmitter for long range FPV flying.
I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for an appropriate transmitter. I suspect this may have been discussed in this thread somewhere, but my search did not yeald anything productive and I got tired reading after page 34
Thanks
Joe
I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for an appropriate transmitter. I suspect this may have been discussed in this thread somewhere, but my search did not yeald anything productive and I got tired reading after page 34
Thanks
Joe
joeg1717 said:Just received my F550 from Helipal. Decided to step up from the Vision 2+. I ordered the RTF kit. Got things up and running and soon found out that I did not do my homework regarding the Devo 7 transmitter, with respect to its useful range. It is definitely not the transmitter for long range FPV flying.
I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for an appropriate transmitter. I suspect this may have been discussed in this thread somewhere, but my search did not yeald anything productive and I got tired reading after page 34
Thanks
Joe
Futaba was my choice (either 8fg or 14sg - I have both because I'm using the 14 on my 810). Taranis is less expensive and seems to do a good job. The Futaba will give you good range and there is a very nice help thread on it here on this forum. I've had mine out 600 meters (I know ... not that far but it doesn't have the duration of the Phantom and I wasn't going to press it). The 8fg will give you an 8th channel for anything you want.
Thanks for the suggestion. Since I did not program the Devo 7.........how difficult of a task is that?
joeg1717 said:Just received my F550 from Helipal. Decided to step up from the Vision 2+. I ordered the RTF kit. Got things up and running and soon found out that I did not do my homework regarding the Devo 7 transmitter, with respect to its useful range. It is definitely not the transmitter for long range FPV flying.
I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for an appropriate transmitter. I suspect this may have been discussed in this thread somewhere, but my search did not yeald anything productive and I got tired reading after page 34
Thanks
Joe
I too have the Futaba 8FGHS and was consistently able to fly out to 1000 meters before the connection was broke and RTH was triggered. Since I like to perform a little long range FPV the 1000 meter range was unacceptable so I ordered a 400mm Futaba RC boat antenna (link is somewhere in this thread) and swapped it out for one of the two antennas on my R6208SB Futaba receiver. This has increased my range to 1800+ meters.
U.M.
Okay I just found this Helipal video on YouTube and even though it is not F550 specific it does show the differences between a fixed GoPro, a H3-2D mounted GoPro, and an H3-3D mounted GoPro. There is just so much win in this video demonstration! Watch how they test the two gimbals side-by-side. They strapped two Phantoms to the bottom of a.... oh just watch the **** thing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwIGXOj9Soc
U.M.
Anyone want to buy a slightly used Zenmuse H3-2D? I've got to get me an H3-3D now that I've seen how much better the video stabilization is... DAMMIT! More money...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwIGXOj9Soc
U.M.
Anyone want to buy a slightly used Zenmuse H3-2D? I've got to get me an H3-3D now that I've seen how much better the video stabilization is... DAMMIT! More money...
I have the T8J, went 1604M(1SM) before losing R/C contact. Also have a 14SGH that I use on my P2, and so far 1400M, no loss of R/C.Uncle Meat said:joeg1717 said:Just received my F550 from Helipal. Decided to step up from the Vision 2+. I ordered the RTF kit. Got things up and running and soon found out that I did not do my homework regarding the Devo 7 transmitter, with respect to its useful range. It is definitely not the transmitter for long range FPV flying.
I was wondering if anyone had a suggestion for an appropriate transmitter. I suspect this may have been discussed in this thread somewhere, but my search did not yeald anything productive and I got tired reading after page 34
Thanks
Joe
I too have the Futaba 8FGHS and was consistently able to fly out to 1000 meters before the connection was broke and RTH was triggered. Since I like to perform a little long range FPV the 1000 meter range was unacceptable so I ordered a 400mm Futaba RC boat antenna (link is somewhere in this thread) and swapped it out for one of the two antennas on my R6208SB Futaba receiver. This has increased my range to 1800+ meters.
U.M.
And, have a Turnigy 9XR for my F800. But-that has EZUHF(433mhz) for the RX/TX...so the range on that is considerably more than the 2.4ghz set-up.
UN-fortunately, I don't have the batteries/engines/FPV to do any range testing-yet. I have a new VTX-just need to get it wired.
waiting on engines and batteries-should arrive next week. hoping for 10+ minutes, which is more than I need to go a mile and return(done it in less than 6 minutes before. remember, 20m/sec=45mph..so you get there fast).
Also, one thing to remember about "range testing"; when you get out past 1000M, slow down......you will eventually enter F/S. But-I've found if you move slow, around 8m/sec or less, you can go another 100M before losing R/C.
Also-best if you can fly at least 8 minutes minimum......
As you can see; most here have gone to Futaba. It's expensive. But-you can find used one's out there if you look hard enough. You really need a good radio....otherwise you're just not going to enjoy the flying experience.
Uncle Meat said:
Thanks for that link. I like the choice for the mother ship.
Havasuphoto - that is what those 4114 motors on a Tarot will do.I didn't think it showed the 2D in all that bad of a light. The expectation to get stable video when bouncing around like that is probably not going to be realized on most flights. They were really jockying the controls. Besides, you will soon only be able to get the 3D so the video is more of a 'this works, too' for me.
Having said that, I have the 3D on my Tarot - and it seems to work great.
ladykate said:Uncle Meat said:
Thanks for that link. I like the choice for the mother ship.
I didn't think it showed the 2D in all that bad of a light. The expectation to get stable video when bouncing around like that is probably not going to be realized on most flights. They were really jockying the controls. Besides, you will soon only be able to get the 3D so the video is more of a 'this works, too' for me.
Having said that, I have the 3D on my Tarot - and it seems to work great.
I've found that on my F800, with the camera all the way out front on rails, I have zero yaw issues. So, I just stuck with the 2D that came on it. I see no difference in the footage between the F800 and my P2 with the H3-3D.
Guess it depend on where you mount the camera and how you fly-but I have no plans for the 3D on my hex. Not until it can rotate/pan....then I can put the retracts back on
joeg1717 said:
The Futaba has a steep learning curve for programming. However, like all tx, you can figure it out. If you decide to get one, go over to the Futaba 8fg/14sg thread and download Ianwood's profile and upload it into your tx. (read the first post - the thread is long but Ian updates the first post with the needed information as new releases come out). The only thing you have to learn is how to load a profile - which is also explained in the first post. The profile will give you a fairly sophisticated setup on your tx where you can manage the gimbal control with much finer precision and it even has modified yaw controls for slow panning. They are currently working on a POV addition that will allow you to circumnavigate a specific area in a fairly precise circle by just flipping a switch.
While the H3-3D is great all around, I'd become good enough with panning while using my old 2-axis gimbal that some of the footage I got with that looks just as good as what I'm getting now with the 3-axis. The main benefit I'm getting from the new gimbal is the way it essentially eliminates the yaw wiggle often seen when flying in a straight line and/or when buffeted by minor winds or airflow.
That reminds me, I just noticed this new mount last night at All E RC, it's designed to mount the H3-3D on a 550 such that the camera lens ends up on the centerline of the aircraft (there's a version for the 450 too): http://www.allerc.com/phoenix-flight-ge ... -9350.html
That reminds me, I just noticed this new mount last night at All E RC, it's designed to mount the H3-3D on a 550 such that the camera lens ends up on the centerline of the aircraft (there's a version for the 450 too): http://www.allerc.com/phoenix-flight-ge ... -9350.html
Saw that when it first came out....but, I use the 2 rail system, and my gimbal is mounted to a plate on that, and is about as far forward on the aircraft as you can go. No issue with props or gear in the shot....love it.
Going to replace the Immersion RC with the AVL58 Today..and hopefully fly it Monday for the last time with the old engines-just to do a video range test.
Going to replace the Immersion RC with the AVL58 Today..and hopefully fly it Monday for the last time with the old engines-just to do a video range test.
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