YES...well.. kind of. That is why on same tools I have like 5 of the same. I always know where one of them isI'm sure you're like me and know exactly where everything is...where it was used last....![]()

YES...well.. kind of. That is why on same tools I have like 5 of the same. I always know where one of them isI'm sure you're like me and know exactly where everything is...where it was used last....![]()
Thanks, I have a little business of building custom guitars made out of antique oil cans.WOW! I am feeling so much better about my work benches now.
Nice guitars by the way. I'm an old drummer.
LOL, me to... nice cans btw.YES...well.. kind of. That is why on same tools I have like 5 of the same. I always know where one of them is![]()
Hello Bob,I've done this in accordance with your diagram and instructions. Something isn't right.
I located mine in the lower half of the shell, so no wiring or plug would be necessary to the top.
View attachment 20511
I get Red and Green, but no yellow. In addition, the outermost LED on the right in this video is the one I attached to.If you look closely, when the new topside LED flashess Red, that particular LED flashes red as well, but the other two on that side flash yellow.
How sure are you of the LED Pin Diagram (Anode, Red,Green)?
Hello Bob,
YELLOW is RED+GREEN.
The ESC on-board diodes are definately common anode.
I also notice that the "the outermost LED on the right " does not illuminate Green either. It seems to be Red or nothing.
Each color string or group of three LEDs is driven by a PNP transistor which is driven by the ESC controller.
The overall problem here is that the on-board LED module segments are configured in series with a single limiting resistor and now this mod would have you [simply] 'piggybacking' addtional LED segments in parallel with each one of them. This of course is not proper design.
As you suspected earlier you're shunting current from one segment or color string and leaking current to the other.
This is a cool idea but this is not the proper way to achieve it.
You'll find the schematic and other info here:
http://www.phantompilots.com/threads/wip-phantom-2-pcbs-schematics-and-info.28252/
Unofficial but no reported errors to my knowledge.
You'll find Zip files for the drawings near the bottom of the post.
if you have an RGB LED, same as on your drone: the YELLOW color is produced by turning both RED and GREEN LEDs at the same time. You don't need to produce nothing.Well, now there's a handy bit of info.
Why would i want to make green?
I already have that - the diodes produce red and green.
Therefore, I need to produce yellow from the red and green.
if you have an RGB LED, same as on your drone: the YELLOW color is produced by turning both RED and GREEN LEDs at the same time. You don't need to produce nothing.
Connect the RED and GREEN LED legs to the indicated spots and you will have the yellow color when they both come ON at the same time.
I use the palm of my hand under the existing LEDs to see what's going on during calibration.
The one feature I'm surprised to find omitted is a super-bright orientation LED on the front facing panel of the Phantom - maybe slowly strobing, which can only be seen if the craft is facing you. Judging orientation would be much easier than it is at the moment.
I have red/green leds with a common anode on order.
I thought this was a great idea at first but now I'm not so sure.
Maybe I should buy a mirror instead.
or just keep doing the DJI belly crawl haha
the DJI belly crawl. The DJI compass dance. The DJI hand catch stance.
What other moves will my quad be teaching me? haha
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