Thanks Dewey
- Thread starter EMCSQUAR
- Start date
EMCSQUAR said:
Ahhh good man! One of (if not the) first to get one I believe. I'm hoping this won't be followed by a 'took it out of the bag and it fell apart' reply now :lol: Hows fitment? *shudders nervously.
Both of mine (1 w/LED mount, 1 skull-n-crossbones) arrived yesterday afternoon 
Opened them up for a quick inspection (pics on the way) and everything about them looked perfect, haven't tried fitting yet. Stay tuned.
Opened them up for a quick inspection (pics on the way) and everything about them looked perfect, haven't tried fitting yet. Stay tuned.
Looks like they're going to work just fine. The fitment is pretty darn good for a shapeways piece, at most it might need some minor filing in the clips that hold it on to the Phantom body, where the ridge of the opening fits in the clip. The little side tabs needed to be bent out just a teensy bit (just due to usual variances in printing thickness) but will probably hold the proper shape now. Those little tabs do look like they might break off sooner than later though, it might be a good idea to make them just a bit wider (i.e. covering more of the gap between door and body) to help prevent that.
Other than that though, I think they look great, and the tolerances are even a bit tighter than these pics may suggest. Once attached, the clips seem to hold on to the body pretty tight...maybe not quite as tight as full plastic clips would, but it feels more secure that I had expected. Still nowhere near enough to hold in a flying battery on their own though, so some type of method for securing the batt is still needed of course.
Other than that though, I think they look great, and the tolerances are even a bit tighter than these pics may suggest. Once attached, the clips seem to hold on to the body pretty tight...maybe not quite as tight as full plastic clips would, but it feels more secure that I had expected. Still nowhere near enough to hold in a flying battery on their own though, so some type of method for securing the batt is still needed of course.
Great pics O.I and even better feedback!The little tabs were more to prevent potential tolerance slop than structural but I can always make them bigger if felt they would help.
Shapeways has a 0.3mm tolerance on the white nylon iirc so it is always hard to get that truely perfect fit like you could with an injection mold.
As for keeping batts in during an accident... not sure any plastic can stop that (especially if you hit a big sign :lol: ).
Still its great to see them out there in the world and I hope they work out once fully fitted up. Really looking forward to seeing the LED through the skull!
Time to get building now right?
Shapeways has a 0.3mm tolerance on the white nylon iirc so it is always hard to get that truely perfect fit like you could with an injection mold.
As for keeping batts in during an accident... not sure any plastic can stop that (especially if you hit a big sign :lol: ).
Still its great to see them out there in the world and I hope they work out once fully fitted up. Really looking forward to seeing the LED through the skull!
Time to get building now right?
DeweyAXD said:Time to get building now right?
Yup, as soon as I decide what batt to go with. If I end up using the 5400mAh ThunderPower I want to do the battery compartment modifications before installing everything above that. Just waiting to hear results on that one. I guess I should go ahead and order that slim Turnigy boat batt you found since I know I'll want to test with that either way.
Btw, on the skull n crossbones door, I confess I'm scratching my head a bit on how to mount the LED. It looks like I just mount it to the flat plate inside the door, but the little round hole on the plate doesn't line up with the little round LED itself (its offset a good bit towards the "top" of the plate)...was that by design?
Little worrying. I don't have printed version but this mock up is how it is design...
There should be two holes left and right of the larger hole that are exactly the distance between the two holes of te LED board.
SPOILER: Major derpage ahead
So, I thought it was for this:
(which made a lot more sense when I had only test-fit it in my mind)
Indeed there's little "pre-holes" in the proper locations, just need a little poking or reaming or some other potentially inappropriate term:
...and it looks like everything lines up just right when I use the intended hardware:
On second thought, I may just leave the holes in their prenatal state and just let the screws do the work when I attach it...the material seems like it's just soft enough that the screws would bite and penetrate (see, there it is) well enough on their own.
So, I thought it was for this:
(which made a lot more sense when I had only test-fit it in my mind)
Indeed there's little "pre-holes" in the proper locations, just need a little poking or reaming or some other potentially inappropriate term:
...and it looks like everything lines up just right when I use the intended hardware:
On second thought, I may just leave the holes in their prenatal state and just let the screws do the work when I attach it...the material seems like it's just soft enough that the screws would bite and penetrate (see, there it is) well enough on their own.
Ahhh I had a horrible feeling you might have been thinking v2 LED.... easy mistake to make really given the amount of typing of the word LED in this thread!! :lol: . Its not to say I couldn't make the v2 LED clip internal of course but I felt it would impose on the internal space a bit much. Plus it would be little help me doing that now. Hope you can make it work for you.
Grab a paperclip or pin and wiggle it around in the holes - there will be some loose nylon powder that you can shift which should leave you enough to screw into. The LED screws are self tapping and the nylon should grip it nicely.
Final question.... Am I ok to use these pics for the Shapeways site? I won't promise they will be permanent but always nice to have 'the real deal' on there.
Grab a paperclip or pin and wiggle it around in the holes - there will be some loose nylon powder that you can shift which should leave you enough to screw into. The LED screws are self tapping and the nylon should grip it nicely.
Final question.... Am I ok to use these pics for the Shapeways site? I won't promise they will be permanent but always nice to have 'the real deal' on there.
DeweyAXD said:
Abosolutely! Mi fotografía es su fotografía (...at least the ones of your stuff
)Let me know what others you may want/need, I'm going to do some more anyway w/the (V2) LED in the mount on the outside of the other door.
I think I have an extra canbus cable (came with either my Wookong or 2.4 Data Link, can't remember) with that flat connector on one end like the GPS and LED leads, so I guess the next project is to cannibalize that to make an extended-length cable coming from the bare LED board behind the skull. I'd have to solder an extension on the stock lead anyway, so might as well do it right.
PJA said:
Sure thing! I'd planned to do one anyway if I went that route. It'll be pretty similar to the "add canbus to your updgrade board" process Dewey documented, and I'll be using that anyway to know which wires in the canbus cable to solder to which pads on the LED board (which are labeled nicely).
Hi Dewey,
I bought and receive one of your shapeways battery door for my phantom 1.5 today...I feel that the cover do not close tight enough and could easily pop out in mid air if i were to fly aggressively. The material is alright, it fits but it's just not secure enough.
I was using a velcro before this and I think the velcro is a more secure option.
I bought and receive one of your shapeways battery door for my phantom 1.5 today...I feel that the cover do not close tight enough and could easily pop out in mid air if i were to fly aggressively. The material is alright, it fits but it's just not secure enough.
I was using a velcro before this and I think the velcro is a more secure option.
bcquad78 said:
Hi bcquad - Sorry to hear you aren't 100% confident in the door. I totally understand where you are coming from but touch wood so far I've not had report of any of them falling off under stressful flight yet. I'm not going to be silly enough to think it won't ever happen though as it really comes down to setup.
The way I designed the clips might give you some comfort though. Lipo's mounted with the rounded side facing the out (as they all tend to be) should wedge into the recess between the upper and lower clips. This forces the clips up, making them actually grip tighter.
It is a real tricky one for me because with the 3D printing materials out there it is pretty much impossible to get a 'snap shut' finish to the level of injection moulded because of the elasticity properties of the print materials. The 'polished' or 'detailed# option on Shapeways is a bit better for this but I tend not to offer it because its much more expensive and a little more brittle.
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How long are you willing to wait? I'm waiting for some new 5200s advertised as being 44mm wide to come in, it may be a no-carving fit for the p2 shell. Should be a a week or so. If it were me, I'd go ahead and carve to the largest battery I have (55mm), but not everyone rolls that way.OI Photography said:DeweyAXD said:Time to get building now right?
Yup, as soon as I decide what batt to go with. If I end up using the 5400mAh ThunderPower I want to do the battery compartment modifications before installing everything above that.
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