Replacement controller battery

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#1
Any body know of a good battery replacement for a P3 4k controller and were to find it?
Mine is on it's way out.
Thanks
 
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#3
Buy a lipo battery that's the same voltage, cut a hole in the controller, stick pigtail out. Or, send to DJI for replacement.
And hopefully l near the same milli amp. (ma)..Not slightly less....if any thing slightly more ! that determines how long it will last running the remote controller !
 
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#4
I've been looking, apparently the originals were two flat pack style lipo's (similar to what's in the AC battery packs) with a special balance charger circuit. I recently saw another photo on the forums here that showed what appeared to be a pair of 18650's shrink wrapped together - from the factory. I've seen a few YT videos showing replacing with a battery pack (2S) for something like an RC car, but requires a balance charger to properly charge. I did find a balance charger that looks like the factory one on Ebay for about $4, but I'm not sure if my RC has the flat packs or the two 18650's in it. (I haven't opened mine yet, waiting on the balance charger to get here.) Battery shows at 57% but never seems to drop - two solid and one blinking light. From what I understand, the battery in the RC was rated at 6000 mah so it could run for 6 hours without a charge so something about half that size would be fine (3000-3500 mah aftermarket.)

Two 3000 mah 18650 batteries with a $4 balance charger should do fine and fit easily in the factory battery space.
 
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#5
I've been looking, apparently the originals were two flat pack style lipo's (similar to what's in the AC battery packs) with a special balance charger circuit. I recently saw another photo on the forums here that showed what appeared to be a pair of 18650's shrink wrapped together - from the factory. I've seen a few YT videos showing replacing with a battery pack (2S) for something like an RC car, but requires a balance charger to properly charge. I did find a balance charger that looks like the factory one on Ebay for about $4, but I'm not sure if my RC has the flat packs or the two 18650's in it. (I haven't opened mine yet, waiting on the balance charger to get here.) Battery shows at 57% but never seems to drop - two solid and one blinking light. From what I understand, the battery in the RC was rated at 6000 mah so it could run for 6 hours without a charge so something about half that size would be fine (3000-3500 mah aftermarket.)

Two 3000 mah 18650 batteries with a $4 balance charger should do fine and fit easily in the factory battery space.
Ken...a fantastic post and i'm sure many more will benefit from this post then a very few.
 
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#6
Ken...a fantastic post and i'm sure many more will benefit from this post then a very few.
Thanks! I'll probably post up what I do along with some pictures - but my controller has the dreaded "won't charge past 2 &1/2 lights" disease. I'm going to add the ARGTek antenna setup on it while I've got the controller open as well. Note though, that my setup is out of warranty - I wouldn't recommend doing this on an in-warranty RC.

Here's the balance charger I bought off Ebay:

NEW - 2S 2A Li-ion Battery 18650 Charger Protection Board PCM BMS Module - FAST! | eBay

The whole idea is simply to split up the charging between the two cells so they charge the same, not at different rates. That way the whole "battery" is charged properly. This way, there's no need to poke holes in the RC case to add a balance port for the charger.
 
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#7
I have one for a GL300C RC. I bought it on eBay thinking my battery was bad when in actuality it was the circuitboard in my controller. I have since fixed my RC and now have an extra battery. It reads 8.35v when fully charged. Yours for what I paid for it... $20 plus shipping.
 
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#8
And FYI, if you’re thinking you need a battery because you’re having a charging issue, it’s likely not the battery. I have discovered that the circuit board needs to be reflowed.
 
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#9
FYI I cracked my controller this evening - sure enough, it has the big pocket for a larger size battery, filled with foam and a pair of 18650's that have this charger circuit attached to them. Batteries measure 3.75v each - the charger outputs 17.36v at the plug, but is regulated on the RC board down to 8.36v - which is passed to the batteries. I unplugged and re-plugged them and now it seems to be charging right? I'm going to let it charge for a while and see what it does, put it back together. I can't see any bad solder joints on the charger board (then again, my eyesight isn't what it used to be.) At this point I might put it back together with the ARGTek antenna setup and be done with it.
 

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#10
Great Job "Ken" !.......and like many others we all sure hope it really works great for you......Thanks for sharing this as i'm sure your post will lead the way for others to do it to theirs someday.....and count me as one of them.
 
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#11
FYI I cracked my controller this evening - sure enough, it has the big pocket for a larger size battery, filled with foam and a pair of 18650's that have this charger circuit attached to them. Batteries measure 3.75v each - the charger outputs 17.36v at the plug, but is regulated on the RC board down to 8.36v - which is passed to the batteries. I unplugged and re-plugged them and now it seems to be charging right? I'm going to let it charge for a while and see what it does, put it back together. I can't see any bad solder joints on the charger board (then again, my eyesight isn't what it used to be.) At this point I might put it back together with the ARGTek antenna setup and be done with it.
The factory battery is a 2S1P with a PCB. If it is reading 8.3-8.4v then is is fully charged and should get all 4 lights and 99-100% in GO app. If not, you’ll need to reflow the RC board. You won’t be able to see any bad solder joints. They are usually Microfractures that cannot be seen.
 
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#12
The factory battery is a 2S1P with a PCB. If it is reading 8.3-8.4v then is is fully charged and should get all 4 lights and 99-100% in GO app. If not, you’ll need to reflow the RC board. You won’t be able to see any bad solder joints. They are usually Microfractures that cannot be seen.
However.......I'm sure dangers are involved in the re flow process of destroying a part or parts by excessive heat from solder iron....that procedure is delicate .and please don't do it Unless your willing to take the chance of damage to very tiny electronic parts ! (BIG SIGH) I hope it all works just fine the way it is.
 
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#14
However.......I'm sure dangers are involved in the re flow process of destroying a part or parts by excessive heat from solder iron....that procedure is delicate .and please don't do it Unless your willing to take the chance of damage to very tiny electronic parts ! (BIG SIGH) I hope it all works just fine the way it is.
Absolutely. It’s worth trying if you have the ability and your only recourse is to buy another remote anyhow. Reflowing during the manufacturing process is typically done at close to 400° so a 250° reflow repair Is relatively safe if done correctly. Real sticking point here is that we shouldn’t be experiencing these problems in the first place and DJI should be stepping up to the plate with a recall or warranty extension.
 

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