Repairable Binding Switch?

[stuka75]

The circle item appears to be a switch found loose after changing the wifi antenae. Does the circled part belong at the arrowed location. The location appears to be right over the binding port of the lower shell. If so, can it be repaired/glued/soldered, ect? Is the a polarity to be observed?
Thanks

 

[kerrylaw7307]

What kind of bird is this? Sure looks like it came from there.
These are SMD's "surface mounted devices".

check this out....

and this.... Wire Glue - Electrically Conductive Glue

 

[robca]

That video makes no sense, sorry. In order to clean the pads (which is pretty much needed for the new component to actually be in place), you need a soldering iron. If you have the right soldering iron (temp controlled, small tip), you can do the repair much more easily. Also, what they do not show is the need to "bake" the board to melt the product by putting the board in an oven. Good luck putting a board as complicated as a P3S in an oven and hoping to get the perfect reflow temperature for every component on both sides. Unless you have a professional reflow oven with temperature controlled profiles, you will destroy the board (components will shiftand/or be damaged by the heat). Reflowing a board is hard, and no repair person would ever reflow an entire board when a single component needs a simple soldering that can be done with a <$40 soldering iron. I would most definitely not recommend anyone to use that product:the video is misleading

Conductive ink or glue is also not recommended for a quadcopter: vibrations will make the bond fail. Might work in some cases for more stationary devices

The OP asked the same question on RCGroups and the answer is the same: use a temperature controlled soldering iron and that switch can be re-soldered in a few seconds. If the OP is not familiar enough with a soldering iron, it's easy to find a friend or hobbyist with one. Or, worst case, any phone repair shop can do that soldering job for a very low cost (since the board is already open and ready)

 

[Sesmith016]

It appears to come from the location you indicated (broken solder and screen print). I couldn't see a polarity mark on the component, but the white dot on the board does indicate polarity. Hope this helps!

 

[stuka75]

My apologies, this is a Standard P3. And with my shaky old hands, soldering that part is out my expertise. thanks for all the input. I still cant get the tx to link with the p3, so do you think the collision/accident caused loss of bind? If so then that part clearly needs to be soldered back. Other than the switch the board appear undamaged to close inspection via magnification. I replaced the broken wifi antennea, but attempts to start up show red/yellow blinking diagnostic lights. The compass connector appears intact at the board end and cable has not been compromised in its remaining length as the landing gear suffered no damage.
Thanks all

 

[Anewtoi]

Just in case you have not found a remedy, theres another couple of threads about this which I'll link to after posting. One guy found some on comparable switches on eBay and soldered back to working conditions. I didn't have a quality soldering iron so I went looking in the garage and found an old tone probe and figured I'd try to see if the power button would work. I cut the wires with about 2" left attached and took the whole circuit board out of the probe and propped the quad at an angle with the top of the shell off, main quad circuit board unscrewed and the 3 connectors unplugged. This allowed enough room to maneuver the board about an inch over the side of the quad. This was enough room to get the probes circuit board wires to temporarily contact the quads (missing) link switch soldering points. Held the switch closed with electrical tape for about 3-4 seconds and the led changed from red to green. This will last until I can find an experienced solder guy. A lot of electronics laying around have this type (or close enough to work) of switch that can be used to get you flying again. Good luck!