good to hear...Thanks
funny I upgraded to the P4pro for the camera but I'm hanging on to the P4 because I have all of your filters for it...
funny I upgraded to the P4pro for the camera but I'm hanging on to the P4 because I have all of your filters for it...
Well 25 is close enough to 24, so those values are always the same.
I've never actually seen 50 fps on our aircrafts, is this a common frame rate people are shooting in?
Thanks for the feedback!
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
25/50 makes sense wherever PAL is used (Europe) and 50 for slow mo.
Regarding 24/25 sure they are very close. My point is rather for the user not finding 25 in choice list. An idea would be to show 24-25 together (same selectable item) so both get covered but app would still stick to 24 internally.
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25/50 makes sense wherever PAL is used (Europe) and 50 for slow mo.
Regarding 24/25 sure they are very close. My point is rather for the user not finding 25 in choice list. An idea would be to show 24-25 together (same selectable item) so both get covered but app would still stick to 24 internally.
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Thanks...Hopefully we'll be able to put it to use and check it's accuracy when the filters ship in a few days (they are still on for the 19th right?)Hey Guys,
We just launched V2.1 of this app which incorporates pretty much all of your feedback!
Hopefully some of you find this app helpful
-Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Accordingly Help instructions the user would expect to enter same camera settings as the camera is currently shooting at ;
You might want explain in TIPS or FAQ what to do if this app doesn't support a setting the user is looking after
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Accordingly Help instructions the user would expect to enter same camera settings as the camera is currently shooting at ;
You might want explain in TIPS or FAQ what to do if this app doesn't support a setting the user is looking after
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Thanks Jeff. By far the nicest rep of any company I've ever seen anywhere.
You are the man. His humility is only dwarfed by his kindness.
The 180 degree shutter rule is the thing that says generally that your shutter speed (how fast the iris opens and closes, or a blink) should be double the number of you frame rate.
We are talking FRACTIONS of a second here people so the difference between PAL 25fps and 24fps (and by the way, 24fps is also the original film frame rate, old NTSC was actually 29.97fps drop frame [It would drop the 10th frame of every 30 frame second] while old pre-hd PAL was 25fps).
We don't use PAL or NTSC anymore as they are just the basis for what is HD now. The general platform is still derived from PAL and NTSC but there are so many different frame rates now, that 25 and 29.97 is no longer a standard but rather a choice. Back in the PAL, NTSC, SECAM days, PAL was by far the better choice as it was 16x9 and closer to the 24fps which is what films have been using since the beginning of major film. 24fps is generally the motion blur that your eyes see at so it looks the most natural. If you wave your hands in front of your face and you see a blur to it, it's not a 1969 flash back, its motion blur caused by the residual speed that your eyes can handle. This is not directed at you Jeff by the way.
Not that I am some super expert, but I know a couple things so I have actually created a tutorial/review of my Cinema Series Polar Pro Vivid filters that ARE AWESOME and I got them after seeing this thread I believe and all the positive things people were saying about them. I was not disappointed.
I finished the review/tutorial about 2 months ago but I forgot all about it and just had to put a couple finishing touches on it and it is currently uploading to my YT channel. I hope I did them justice.
I'll post the tutorial in this thread or maybe make a new one for it.
Either way, thanks Jeff for being so cool and offering not only your kindness but advice. If all people were like you, this would be a great world. That sounds hyperbolic but I mean it.
You and mslinger are kind beyond the norm.
THANKS!
Adam
OH, and as you all know that I go off on tangents, the purpose of me posting this was to the person that was concerned about what the 24fps people do, when there is only 1/50th on the P4. Well in reality it's 1/50th OF A SECOND and the difference between 1/50th of a second (2x25) vs 1/48th of a second (2x24) is exactly 2 tenths of a second of your shutter speed. I would never be involved in a hobby where two tenths of a second are going to make or break it. I am way too ADD for that.
Here is a good red on the 180 rule (ended up way below) which is generally double your frame rate and add the "1/" in front of it, and it's a good starting point to figure out the correct shutter speed is for your camera and outdoor settings. Again though, these rules are learned not to be followed blindly but to learn how to break them properly when you need to.
Like I always preach, you really need to learn the rules so you can break them. For example, there is someone here (name escapes me) that likes to do night shots where he captures images and spells things (he made a Texan flag) by leaving the shutter open the whole time in the dark night sky so it would capture the light. No 180 rule there but he has a good understanding of how ISO, shutter speed, and aperture work together to get the effect he wanted. Unfortunately, we are locked at 2.8 on most of our UASs and that is because it's to keep the cost down and it's about the right f-stop (what we measure aperture in) where we get a deep, infinite depth of field which is what you want almost always when shooting vistas.
I wrote a whole tutorial on ISO/Aperture/Shutter speed here that I'll try and find and dig up.
Lucky for us, we have great filters like the ones from PolarPro to help us essentially knock up or down the f-stop without the ability to do it in camera.
I try, although it was late when I recorded my voice, to explain this with images in the video that I will post later this evening, it's uploading and processing in YT now.
I hope you guys get something from it. I certainly learned some stuff as I was doing it.
Thanks again. One day I'll write a short post. :-X
Link to a good read on the 180 rule: Shutter Angles & Creative Control
EDIT: To give you guys an idea of why you WANT motion blur in a 24 frame shot and when you wouldn't is when you want it to look super sharp and amazing like on a vista or if you are trying to pull a key (shot on a green screen where blur would be a major problem on fast movement) but in a regular film setting, you would want it to look like real life. For example, you wouldn't want the Shawshank Redemption to look like a high resolution football game or soap opera. If I was shooting a green screen, I would tell the DP to shoot at 90 degrees and the DIT would say "that will look horrible" and I would have to explain that I will add the motion blur back in. In digital video, it's not ACTUALLY a 90 degree angle on the shutter but the terminology has remained, thankfully. So 24fps is for cinematic effect while higher frame rates will look sharper but not necessarily better. I need to see my therapist, my ADD is out of control on this post. Mods, feel free to erase it if it's completely non-sensical.
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Hey Jeff, when is that graduated ND-8/16 or ND-16/32 coming out for P3-P4? Snake River Protoyping still hasn't got their website one back into production for sale since last September. All their dealers are out of them too. I'd guess the top 1/4 of the filter should have the darkest part for the sky and clouds and not halfway down the filter.
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Very cool.
I didn't even notice before that this was a new thread with the app.
My method to figure out which one I should use is simply by putting on the one I think is correct based on the brightness and then I actually switch to auto to see where it thinks the shutter should be and if I'm not close, I step up or down with the filters until I get where I want.
Excited to check out the app and of course happy to give you feedback.
Just for info with previous version was unclear if the app was calculating after user input when same results/no change. Now bottom area is flashing to confirm recalc. Help page also added etc. This is nice.
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