P4P Yaw Motor Issues

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I have a P4P that had a pretty violent crash, it broke the gimbal arm and tore ribbon cables, broken the landing gear and bottom shell and the aluminum battery case. I have replaced just about everything including the gimbal esc board. The exception being the pitch and roll motor. I’m getting the gimbal motor overload warning and the camera won’t center and the camera rolls to a funny angle. I replaced the yaw motor according today droneteds videos. My question is, if the roll and/or pitch motor are defective would that affect the yaw motor? Or did I just screw up the yaw motor replacement when I switched the casing and need to try it again?
 
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I have a P4P that had a pretty violent crash, it broke the gimbal arm and tore ribbon cables, broken the landing gear and bottom shell and the aluminum battery case. I have replaced just about everything including the gimbal esc board. The exception being the pitch and roll motor. I’m getting the gimbal motor overload warning and the camera won’t center and the camera rolls to a funny angle. I replaced the yaw motor according today droneteds videos. My question is, if the roll and/or pitch motor are defective would that affect the yaw motor? Or did I just screw up the yaw motor replacement when I switched the casing and need to try it again?

All 3 gimbal motors are affected by each other. This is, what I call the "cascading" effect of repairing P4 cams. However, if you have all 3 gimbal motors in good condition & then replace the yaw/roll ESC board, you'll have to start swapping yaw & roll motors to get a stable gimbal. This is the frustrating part of repairing these fussy buggers.
 
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Suggest a PM to droneted directly for advice. He helped me with a DIY camera repair and I also sent a P4P camera assembly to him for repair. (He doesn't need the whole drone). Saves a lot of time money and aggravation.
 
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I have a P4P that had a pretty violent crash, it broke the gimbal arm and tore ribbon cables, broken the landing gear and bottom shell and the aluminum battery case. I have replaced just about everything including the gimbal esc board. The exception being the pitch and roll motor. I’m getting the gimbal motor overload warning and the camera won’t center and the camera rolls to a funny angle. I replaced the yaw motor according today droneteds videos. My question is, if the roll and/or pitch motor are defective would that affect the yaw motor? Or did I just screw up the yaw motor replacement when I switched the casing and need to try it again?
 
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I have a P4P that had a pretty violent crash, it broke the gimbal arm and tore ribbon cables, broken the landing gear and bottom shell and the aluminum battery case. I have replaced just about everything including the gimbal esc board. The exception being the pitch and roll motor. I’m getting the gimbal motor overload warning and the camera won’t center and the camera rolls to a funny angle. I replaced the yaw motor according today droneteds videos. My question is, if the roll and/or pitch motor are defective would that affect the yaw motor? Or did I just screw up the yaw motor replacement when I switched the casing and need to try it again?
Dear: The arrangements you have made are fine, the detail about the Gimbal motors is that they are calibrated together with the ESC board, if the ESC board you changed you did because you could not stabilize the Gimbal, even when you changed the motors of the Gimbal. Gimbal the problem may not be with the card, the internal sensors of the Gimbal motors are calibrated with that card. The solution is to keep the motor sensors and install them on the new motors. There are videos on YouTube where they explain how to make this change. Your gimbal stabilization problem is in that detail of the engine sensors. Good luck with the change. Greetings.
 
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I have a P4P that had a pretty violent crash, it broke the gimbal arm and tore ribbon cables, broken the landing gear and bottom shell and the aluminum battery case. I have replaced just about everything including the gimbal esc board. The exception being the pitch and roll motor. I’m getting the gimbal motor overload warning and the camera won’t center and the camera rolls to a funny angle. I replaced the yaw motor according today droneteds videos. My question is, if the roll and/or pitch motor are defective would that affect the yaw motor? Or did I just screw up the yaw motor replacement when I switched the casing and need to try it again?
Dear: The arrangements you have made are fine, the detail about the Gimbal motors is that they are calibrated together with the ESC board, if the ESC board you changed you did because you could not stabilize the Gimbal, even when you changed the motors of the Gimbal. Gimbal the problem may not be with the card, the internal sensors of the Gimbal motors are calibrated with that card. The solution is to keep the motor sensors and install them on the new motors. There are videos on YouTube where they explain how to make this change. Your gimbal stabilization problem is in that detail of the engine sensors. Good luck with the change. Greetings.
 
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All 3 gimbal motors are affected by each other. This is, what I call the "cascading" effect of repairing P4 cams. However, if you have all 3 gimbal motors in good condition & then replace the yaw/roll ESC board, you'll have to start swapping yaw & roll motors to get a stable gimbal. This is the frustrating part of repairing these fussy buggers.
I got a roll motor in today’s and installed it. I had the same problem as before. So I put the old ESC board back in and it improved the problem. The gimbal will center now but if it gets touched or moved out of place it stays in the new spot and I get the gimbal motor overload warnings. I am going to try and redo the motor casing and see if that is the issue. I had a problem with it when I was trying to switch it.
 
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I got a roll motor in today’s and installed it. I had the same problem as before. So I put the old ESC board back in and it improved the problem. The gimbal will center now but if it gets touched or moved out of place it stays in the new spot and I get the gimbal motor overload warnings. I am going to try and redo the motor casing and see if that is the issue. I had a problem with it when I was trying to switch it.

Sounds like you might have damaged one or both of the two tiny black sensors on the base of the yaw motor when putting the old drum on. Most of the "new" yaw motors in the marketplace ARE actually new, but are not to original factory specs. I have to put a .010 thick washer on the backside of the motor shaft & one on top of the upper bearing, to get the proper clearance between the bottom edge of the drum & the sensors. The washer on the back of the pin keeps the drum from moving up and down, (.010), when mounted in the gimbal. Any "slop" can cause buzzing or vibration of the motor & messes up the smooth function of the yaw & other gimbal motors. Another common mistake is not checking to see if the yaw, (not turned on), moves very freely back & forth without any binding. Most of the time, the small bracket that the ribbon cable sticks to has been bent in a crash & can touch the bottom of the yaw arm, restricting its motion.
 
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Sounds like you might have damaged one or both of the two tiny black sensors on the base of the yaw motor when putting the old drum on. Most of the "new" yaw motors in the marketplace ARE actually new, but are not to original factory specs. I have to put a .010 thick washer on the backside of the motor shaft & one on top of the upper bearing, to get the proper clearance between the bottom edge of the drum & the sensors. The washer on the back of the pin keeps the drum from moving up and down, (.010), when mounted in the gimbal. Any "slop" can cause buzzing or vibration of the motor & messes up the smooth function of the yaw & other gimbal motors. Another common mistake is not checking to see if the yaw, (not turned on), moves very freely back & forth without any binding. Most of the time, the small bracket that the ribbon cable sticks to has been bent in a crash & can touch the bottom of the yaw arm, restricting its motion.
I think I either messed up the sensors on the new motor or they were messed up before I received it. I took it apart again and tried to be as gentle as I could and I looked at the sensors, it looked like one had a scratch. I put it back together but as best as I could but I ended up with the same problem. So I have ordered a new motor from a different place and we'll see where this gets me. I feel like I am close to getting this fixed, I really don't want to give up yet. How big of O.D. and I.D. do you go on the washers and do you have a specific place that you get them from?
 
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Sounds like you might have damaged one or both of the two tiny black sensors on the base of the yaw motor when putting the old drum on. Most of the "new" yaw motors in the marketplace ARE actually new, but are not to original factory specs. I have to put a .010 thick washer on the backside of the motor shaft & one on top of the upper bearing, to get the proper clearance between the bottom edge of the drum & the sensors. The washer on the back of the pin keeps the drum from moving up and down, (.010), when mounted in the gimbal. Any "slop" can cause buzzing or vibration of the motor & messes up the smooth function of the yaw & other gimbal motors. Another common mistake is not checking to see if the yaw, (not turned on), moves very freely back & forth without any binding. Most of the time, the small bracket that the ribbon cable sticks to has been bent in a crash & can touch the bottom of the yaw arm, restricting its motion.

I had the same problem with the clearance of the new motor because it was not OEM and to solve it I just replace the ball bearings from the new motor with the old OEM motors ball bearings.
 

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