P4P Filters - DJI vs PolarPro
- Thread starter Eddyfisher
- Start date
-
- Tags
- filters
GadgetGuy
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6,881
- Reaction score
- 2,199
I'm hoping that means ND8 at the top to ND0 at the middle. After I looked at their P4 Grad filters, I changed my mind and ordered a set of each for myself, just for the grey, as sunset shooting always results in blown out skies and blown highlights at the top of the frame. I hope they do the job. At $40 just to get a single filter, they are pricey, but if they are what I need, well worth it! They claim to offer a 30 day return policy.
Earlier in this thread I stated that I didn't see much need for an ND4 on the P4P. I want to retract that statement.
It's true that stopping down a couple stops puts the lens in an ideal range for this camera and would have the same effect as an ND4 on the P4, for example. But I didn't consider the case where the choice to stop down for quality and DOF purposes was already made, and an ND4 amount of correction was still required. This was an oversight. And for frame rates greater than 24 where I typically shoot, it could have an even greater usefulness.
Just wanted to clarify that.
It's true that stopping down a couple stops puts the lens in an ideal range for this camera and would have the same effect as an ND4 on the P4, for example. But I didn't consider the case where the choice to stop down for quality and DOF purposes was already made, and an ND4 amount of correction was still required. This was an oversight. And for frame rates greater than 24 where I typically shoot, it could have an even greater usefulness.
Just wanted to clarify that.
Last edited:
Light condition changes if you shoot the horizon or if you shoot the ground.
Let's say you want to start at f/5.6 1/50 giving you 2 stop brighter (to f/2.8) if you shoot the ground and 1 stop darker if you shoot near the sun (to f/8, or 2 stop at f/11 in the worst case scenario cause it's a little too soft).
With this, I think it happens more often to have a shutter at 1/200 at f/5.6 (so at 1/50 with a ND4) than 1/1600 at f/5.6 (so at 1/50 with a ND32). So a ND4 may be more usefull than a ND32 to get the shutter at 1/50 at f/5.6 but I may be wrong.
Let's say you want to start at f/5.6 1/50 giving you 2 stop brighter (to f/2.8) if you shoot the ground and 1 stop darker if you shoot near the sun (to f/8, or 2 stop at f/11 in the worst case scenario cause it's a little too soft).
With this, I think it happens more often to have a shutter at 1/200 at f/5.6 (so at 1/50 with a ND4) than 1/1600 at f/5.6 (so at 1/50 with a ND32). So a ND4 may be more usefull than a ND32 to get the shutter at 1/50 at f/5.6 but I may be wrong.
GadgetGuy
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6,881
- Reaction score
- 2,199
True, and I'm hoping the ND8 will work for that. Otherwise I may have to resort to a gel for a while. A.M. Golden hour is typically in the single digits (F) to low teens and while I do fly in those conditions, I prefer not to. Old fingers get stiff fast, so I waited for it to get up in the 20s before I took the new bird out for her first flight.That certainly isn't Golden Hour lighting!
GadgetGuy
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6,881
- Reaction score
- 2,199
Wow! That's too cold even for skiiing! Brrrrrrr!
Stay warm!Hey I'm new. Not flying but to photography. I scratched my stock lens. On my p4 pro. What do you recommend? Any links? As a newbie should I get different filters?
Also what do you recommend cleaning the lens with?
Also what do you recommend cleaning the lens with?
Last edited:
I assume you scratched the original screw on UV filter, not the actual lens?
I don't see a replacement available yet from DJI. You could call them, but I would just get an ND or two since I never fly without one. Maybe you'd want it for night shots it, but even then I doubt a scratch would make much difference if you decide to forego replacing it. If you're careful where you take off and land (or hand launch and catch) you could even just fly without it.
As for cleaning, I use a rocket blower just like with all my other photo gear, or a soft lens cloth or microfiber if it is lint free.
Hey yeah I'm just talking about the uv filter not the lens. Do the ND s screw on? Thanks
Yes, both the filters from DJI and PolarPro (the most popular 3rd party supplier) screw on. I like my PolarPro filters, but right now I think they only come in 3-packs for around $100, and they require modification to the gimbal clamp in order for it to fit (assuming you don't want to have to install the filter each time).
So there are advantages to each. The PolarPro filters look multicoated and I wouldn't be surprised if the glass quality is superior, but I have not tested them side by side.
See if the code 'welcomewinter' still works for 10% off if you go with PolarPro.
So there are advantages to each. The PolarPro filters look multicoated and I wouldn't be surprised if the glass quality is superior, but I have not tested them side by side.
See if the code 'welcomewinter' still works for 10% off if you go with PolarPro.
I have a secondary gimbal lock on order so I may modify one. That is something I never would have thought of. Great info thank you!
No problem. It's simple modification. There are a couple different solutions, but the one I recommend just requires cutting off the rear lip. Another method is to cut off the front part that covers the lens, but then it's unnecessarily exposed. This method may be required for polarizing filters having a larger diameter due to their rotating ring, but for regular NDs the back lip is the way to go. It's still very secure. I used a fine tooth hacksaw. A Dremel or similar would also work.
GadgetGuy
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6,881
- Reaction score
- 2,199
Or just go Commando style, and be gentle with the goods!
I respect your experience, but I won't be transporting my AC around with it's gimbal free to just flail about.
GadgetGuy
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Jun 18, 2015
- Messages
- 6,881
- Reaction score
- 2,199
My AC usually just sits in the case upright in the back seat of the car, and is transported horizontally, so as to not stress the gimbal. However, serious transport does require serious protection!
Thanks for the tips!
Last edited:
FWIW I just weighed the PP Shutter (ND only) filter and it weighs 4.2 grams, vs. the stock UV at 2.4. It seems unlikely the additional 1.8 grams could matter. I also noticed that the stock UV filter seems to be plastic and the PP seem to be glass. I wonder if the DJI ND filters are plastic?
Last edited:
I just got the DJI nd8 & nd16. How can I tell if it's plastic or glass?
Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots
Sent from my iPhone using PhantomPilots
I think you'll be able to tell if you tap on it with you fingernail. I'm pretty sure their NDs are glass, but I'm not 100%.
If it is plastic-like I assume it would be made of optical resin, which can still be good quality.
Similar threads
