P3P Gimbal problem.

[CaptVonAcid]

Hello everyone. I'm in some needy help since I have no clue what to do with my drone and my problem is nothing I've been able to google myself to.

Well to the problem.
1. When I start the drone the gimbal won't do the usual dance as it should.
2. I get an error on Gimbal roll. And I can't tilt it using the controller at all.

The light above the camera is firm GREEN, I can take pictures, I can record and I can move the camera with my fingers and it stays in place. But I can't move it with my controller at all.
Last time I used it was probably 2 years ago and it flew flawless, and since then it has just been placed on a shelf and nothing else.

Take notice, I usually fly with my Huawei tablet where I downloaded the original DJI GO-app from the Google Store.
When I tried to fly yesterday it was with my Samsung S23 Ultra and I had to download the APK from DJI's website.

The drone will still fly and do everything it can except the camera/gimbal won't move at all.

 

[quaddamage]

You've described the situation well.

So:
* Looks like your video pipeline works correctly
* The issue is only with gimbal movement control
* Since you're getting an error about specific arm, the uC on Gimbal Top board must be working properly

Last time I used it was probably 2 years ago and it flew flawless, and since then it has just been placed on a shelf and nothing else.

Gimbals are usually damaged by physical shock. Are you sure the person who was cleaning there didn't dropped it?

It's also possible you've flown in a humid environment and the copper wires on FFC cable were corroding since by oxidation in water.

Anyway, the issue is almost certainly with Flat Film Cable connecting Gimbal Top board to arms and camera.
You can also check the Motor Driver circuits and whether everything looks OK on the top board. But these are rarely causing issues, usually it's the FFC.

The boards I mentioned are described here:

DJI Hardware

Tools for handling firmwares of DJI products, with focus on quadcopters. - o-gs/dji-firmware-tools

github.com

EDIT:
Wait.. you're having problems with YAW arm? That arm is not connected by the FFC sticked to arms.. looks like my diagnosis above is incorrect, then.

The yaw arm driver is with the top board. There's a driver on the board, and a motor is connected directly by its own separate FFC.

The motor momentum is being transferred to the aluminum arms by being held by a small screw at top of the arm. Maybe you're just having a loose screw? It's a small hex screw within top part of the arm, you can find it and tighten without disassembly.

 

[RodPad]

Welcome to the forum!
@quaddamage is #1

This is a cool forum!
If another member has an issue, they will post.

Rod ..

 

[CaptVonAcid]

EDIT:
Wait.. you're having problems with YAW arm? That arm is not connected by the FFC sticked to arms.. looks like my diagnosis above is incorrect, then.

The yaw arm driver is with the top board. There's a driver on the board, and a motor is connected directly by its own separate FFC.

The motor momentum is being transferred to the aluminum arms by being held by a small screw at top of the arm. Maybe you're just having a loose screw? It's a small hex screw within top part of the arm, you can find it and tighten without disassembly.

Big thanks for the long message and reply. I've checked all the wires going into the gimbal etc except the copper one. I can with 110% say the drone has not been dropped since it has been placed in my "gaming room" and I do the cleaning there and not my missues!

I've checked all the screws and no one is loose, I also found that whilst googling about the locking screw and that is tight and havent moved. The gimbal is firm and not slacking either.

Should mention, how I place the camera by hand it stays that way aswell. It's like the arms and gimbal function is still working but won't respond to the controller.
I can try to post a video and some photos later when I get home and show you. This issues is bugging me.

The controller and drone should be at 100% charge aswell when I get home since the controller had about 15% battery when I tried to fly it.

Best regards Acid!

 

[quaddamage]

I've checked all the wires going into the gimbal etc except the copper one.

I'm confused - all wires are made of copper.
But regardless - connection between the gimbal and the rest of the drone is not a problem, your problem is (as the app indicated) with specific arm of the gimbal.

If you have a multimeter, you should focus on measuring connections to the indicated arm.

Here's the diagram of gimbal-related stuff on top board:

WM320 Gimbal top board

Tools for handling firmwares of DJI products, with focus on quadcopters. - o-gs/dji-firmware-tools

github.com

One of the outputs is "FFC", that then goes to remaining arms (yaw arm has everything on the top board).

how I place the camera by hand it stays that way aswell.

Your gimbal uC did not instructed the arms to stay limp. No idea what are the rules for that - sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

You should check for mechanical issue as well - meaning whether all arms are moving effortlessly and without friction.

 

[CaptVonAcid]

I'm confused - all wires are made of copper.
But regardless - connection between the gimbal and the rest of the drone is not a problem, your problem is (as the app indicated) with specific arm of the gimbal.

If you have a multimeter, you should focus on measuring connections to the indicated arm.

Here's the diagram of gimbal-related stuff on top board:

WM320 Gimbal top board

Tools for handling firmwares of DJI products, with focus on quadcopters. - o-gs/dji-firmware-tools

github.com

One of the outputs is "FFC", that then goes to remaining arms (yaw arm has everything on the top board).


Your gimbal uC did not instructed the arms to stay limp. No idea what are the rules for that - sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.

You should check for mechanical issue as well - meaning whether all arms are moving effortlessly and without friction.

That occured to me aswell after posting my reply. I'm talking about the one at the backside which looks like copper-color. Just another google that told me those could brake aswell.

****, that's a lot of wiring, might take me a while to look into that.

All arms are moving effortless and no friction at all, that I do know since I've been turning all arms and camera to check for potentional damage etc.

***EDIT***

Link to the video for my drone.

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And two pictures of the error and firmware/versions.

 

[quaddamage]

Link to the video for my drone.

Looks like the gimbal is limp, it just keeps position because it's well balanced.

Anyway, the error is clearly about roll. So take out the roll driver board, check if the position measuring potentiometer has proper resistance, check if all MOSFETs have similar resistances.

But as previously indicated, in most cases it's a matter of the Flex Film Cable connecting Gimbal Top board with motor drivers and camera. You can find many videos on how to replace it.

 

[CaptVonAcid]

Looks like the gimbal is limp, it just keeps position because it's well balanced.

Anyway, the error is clearly about roll. So take out the roll driver board, check if the position measuring potentiometer has proper resistance, check if all MOSFETs have similar resistances.

But as previously indicated, in most cases it's a matter of the Flex Film Cable connecting Gimbal Top board with motor drivers and camera. You can find many videos on how to replace it.

That was the "copper"cable I was talking about! The flex film cable

But how has it broke just by standing on a shelf?

But I'll dissasseble the gimbal and measure the resistance and hopefully I can find the problem. But if it is the flexcable I can just throw the drone in the bin.
Since drones here in Sweden are a pain to sell 2nd hand and a fraction of the price it usually was.
And let us not forget the new thing in Sweden. You need a freaking "drivers-licens" for all drones above 249 grams in weight aswell.

 

[quaddamage]

But if it is the flexcable I can just throw the drone in the bin.

The FFC is the most often breaking part of this gimbal. You can very easily buy a replacement (well, I didn't search for it in recent years.. but in the past you could).

For the license - not sure what is the classification of Phantoms, but for most consumer drones you get the "license" by just going through a half-hour online course, and putting a sticker on your drone.

 

[CaptVonAcid]

The FFC is the most often breaking part of this gimbal. You can very easily buy a replacement (well, I didn't search for it in recent years.. but in the past you could).

For the license - not sure what is the classification of Phantoms, but for most consumer drones you get the "license" by just going through a half-hour online course, and putting a sticker on your drone.

I did search for it and they're about 20euros.

Not in Sweden, it's actually a bit more if I'm not totally wrong.

But I'll dig into it and see what I can find and I'll go from there and will come back here if I have more questions.
Thank you A LOT for all the help and guidelines! Much appreciated!


***EDIT***

Did take a closer look on my FFC and I found this. Might be my problem tbh.


***EDIT 2***

Found a cable for my drone. It is about 50 euros.. Jesus, and for my drone you get about 100-150 euros if I sell it xD

 

[quaddamage]

I wouldn't pay more than 8 EUR for the cable. That's the price I see on aliexpress.

if you see the scratch, you could always try to solder it - while the cables have varying quality and build materials, typically they do allow soldering on them if you won't set the temperature too high. That requires you to be quite precise though, definitely wouldn't recommend if you're not soldering often.

 

[CaptVonAcid]

I wouldn't pay more than 8 EUR for the cable. That's the price I see on aliexpress.

if you see the scratch, you could always try to solder it - while the cables have varying quality and build materials, typically they do allow soldering on them if you won't set the temperature too high. That requires you to be quite precise though, definitely wouldn't recommend if you're not soldering often.

Haven't soldert in ages so might try it and buy a new cable anyways. It's worth a shot. If it breaks I have a new one coming anyway, IF it holds and works, I have a spare for when IT breaks!

 

[jiminyfixit]

That was the "copper"cable I was talking about! The flex film cable

But how has it broke just by standing on a shelf?

But I'll dissasseble the gimbal and measure the resistance and hopefully I can find the problem. But if it is the flexcable I can just throw the drone in the bin.
Since drones here in Sweden are a pain to sell 2nd hand and a fraction of the price it usually was.
And let us not forget the new thing in Sweden. You need a freaking "drivers-licens" for all drones above 249 grams in weight aswell.

My experience has shown that the Ribbon Cable can deteriorate over time, so sitting on the shelf doesn't mean everything is still OK. I would replace the cable.

 

[CaptVonAcid]

My experience has shown that the Ribbon Cable can deteriorate over time, so sitting on the shelf doesn't mean everything is still OK. I would replace the cable.

I've orderd one so let's just hope that is the problem. Otherwise I have no clue.