Stretching the truth is deception. They picked the route which deviated from the industry standard for lens sizes as read, to make their product look better than what it is. Hey, that’s the way the world is. I was just making note of it.
The issue with using the noise reduction tool is that it reduces the sharpness of an image. Sometimes it better than having a bunch of noise in an image though. Depends on your purpose I guess.
You always (should) reduce noise, even with a full format low iso body such as a Nikon D810. The question is: how much. The answer is: enough.
Although it appears to be deceptive marketing, it's not.
Tried minimal amount of NR on DNG required
The numbers I posted earlier for lightroom also applies for ACR as it is the same engine. Try color 50 and luminance 15-25 as a starting point (for ISO 100)
I believe you are over complicating this slightly. You should really never go beyond base iso 100 unless there is very low light. It is better to increase the aperture to allow more light if the shutterspeed is too long and causes motion blur.
You most likely will get away with lower color noise reduction on the rx10 as the p4p seems to have a thermal issue introducing a lot of noise (unproven theory).
I have used regustax for astriphotography. I don’t have a need for it, photoshop works well for what I do currently...
In this instance 15-20mins earlier would have the sun higher above the horizon (assuming a setting sun) in which case you might have better foreground illumination however would be dealing with the same or greater overall dynamic range (would still exceed the capability of the sensor). You may also be shooting before the colour in the sky had developed nicely. The better options may be to bracket so you have the luxury of creating a HDR image in post or blending frames manually to balance foreground and sky. I usually shoot at sunrise and will often blend properly exposed sky and foreground images. If restraint is exercised you can get realistic looking images without excessive noise in the shadows which tends to plaque images where the darker areas are recovered in post. If your going to shoot one frame only wxposing to the right of the histogram is the only real option in these circumstances unless you have graduated ND Filter’s.
Stick to full stops for ISO settings. If you need a faster shutter @ISO 400 shoot at 800, digger 640. The in between full stop ISO settings often perform worse, that we the case with a lot of DSLR. The actual ISO of the P4P is actually a little below the indicated setting anyway.
