My bird and its mods.

[tizzl10]

The RC is almost finished.
Awaiting Ghz diodes so i can measure on a directional coupler the VSWR of the 5.8Ghz 11 turn helical.
The 2.4Ghz 10 turn helical is tested and approved for service. I even have flown with the 2w booster on.

As it stands now i use 100mW on the RC ( FCC mode ) and a 11 turn helical 5.8Ghz ( home brewed ). With 25mW ( CE mode ) i could manage 9700ft and 2 x skew planar on the bird, with that 100mW and expected doubling the range it could be well 18000ft ?
Anyway thats in a rural environment.
I do have a screen shot of 11000ft and never lost RC control nor FPV.
On FPV: No booster app, skew planar ( 1 on wifi and 2 on the bird ) and 10 turn helical ( home brewed ), 11000ft with crisp clear view on 11000ft, not even a glitch.
So i have the booster app as a spare and the 2w booster making it a range, euh unknown.

Note in the following pictures that i replaced the feeding plug in the boosters and that i made a battery case for the 4 x 5000mAH li-ion battery's.
I also implemented on that case a on/off switch with green led and a cheap volt meter.
Case made out of PS ( polystyrene ) and glued on the original battery holder that can be used @ all time.
Also note the 7th channel pot/lever.
The neck strap i fixed on the RC is something that called my name on the right moment.
I've seen someone stating that a clip like that comes lose. As it can be soldered i fixed the opening so it can't detach by itself.
Total weight is 1623 grams.

TTP, can you tell me how you mounted your 2.4 helical to the transmitter? it appears to me attached with a thin metel piece but I can tell how you have it attached to the transmitter..thanks.

 

[ToThePoint]

TTP, can you tell me how you mounted your 2.4 helical to the transmitter? it appears to me attached with a thin metel piece but I can tell how you have it attached to the transmitter..thanks.

Yes i shall make some detail picture of it, its easy and cheap to do it.
Give me some time.

 

[ToThePoint]

Here we go.

I toke a aluminum strip and drilled 2 holes in it.
After that i marked the places were i had to drill into the clamp arm and made inner 3mm thread in those holes so i could fix the strip alu onto the clamp arm.

The helical on the others side of that strip.
As a groundplane i used a double side PCB so i drilled 4mm holes to fit the 4mm bold and wing-nut. The second hole is just a cut of bold that doesn't need a nut. It just have to act as a stopper to prevent the helical from turning around on the nutted one.

Cheap and simple.

Also this is how i attached the 2,4Ghz 2w amp.

 

[tizzl10]

Here we go.

I toke a aluminum strip and drilled 2 holes in it.
After that i marked the places were i had to drill into the clamp arm and made inner 3mm thread in those holes so i could fix the strip alu onto the clamp arm.

The helical on the others side of that strip.
As a groundplane i used a double side PCB so i drilled 4mm holes to fit the 4mm bold and wing-nut. The second hole is just a cut of bold that doesn't need a nut. It just have to act as a stopper to prevent the helical from turning around on the nutted one.

Cheap and simple.

Also this is how i attached the 2,4Ghz 2w amp.

Cool. Thanks for responding.

 

[ToThePoint]

Well a other one.
As some use tape to blacken out there LEDS and some want a black ops bird.
Especially for you DB a way to set the leds on and off LMAO.

The LEDS are green and red, combined they give yellow.
They are also in a series circuit and as in most electronics negative driven.
Therefore the + ( positive lead ) is a common for the 4 ESC's and are connected directly to the + of the battery.
With this info its easy to build a mod that suits your needs.
I am going to add 2 switches so i can switch off the front and back leds separately.
I can switch them off just before launch and i shall make a separate LED indicator ( very moderate ) on the side so i still can see whats going on after witching off. Thats going to be always ON because i am not a giraffe to look under need the bird.
Leaves me to indicate what resistors are involved on the ESC.
One 300 in series with the red circuit and one 220 for the green.

After desoldering the resistors.